Supposed to improve C-AF and both lenses have updates....
Time to finally load Olympus Master
Supposed to improve C-AF and both lenses have updates....
Time to finally load Olympus Master
It doesn't tell you this but when you connect the camera to the USB cord, on the LCD you will see some menu options...
Highlight Storage if it isn't already and press the OK button...that will get things going....
that's a tip from the EP-1 forum....Jman saved me on that...
Yeah...it took me a while to figure that out.
Here is a quick movie (ok not so quick at 6 minutes). It has focus before and after firmware and then GH1 focus. Sorry for my lack of quality...
Downloaded and upgraded. Marginally faster for me in regular light.
I must be doing something wrong. I am running on an iMac with Snow Leopard 10.6.1 and I can't retrieve the camera version number and when I do the update checker I get a server error 20.
Last edited by barjohn; 14th September 2009 at 21:22.
when you first plug in the camera you will get a lst on the camera screen storage, something else, printing. Hit the OK button on the camera. Now start the upgrade from the computer.
I am doing that and I get a failed to communicate with the server message. Do I need to have registered first?
I just installed the Oly software (requires restart), plugged in my camera (no menu/list for me on the screen, just blank), ran the software and went to camera menu heading, check for updates which launched a "you need to register first" pop up and then went to a Oly website to fill out a web form, etc. After all of that, the check for updates worked.
I'm running osx 10.6.1 as well.
I have registered and still no joy. Did you use the version that came with the camera on the disk or download the latest version? I registered but it still popped up that I needed to register. Very frustrating software.
Yes I do and storage is high lighted. I then press OK. However from the software it will not read the version number. It shows device blank and version blank. If the camera is not connected I get it can't find a camera error. Any suggestions or clues?
Here are images of the two messages.
Last edited by barjohn; 3rd October 2009 at 12:52.
Even though I have now registered the camera multiple times the software still brings up the registration screen when I open it.
I am crashing. Will check in the AM to see if any solutions posted.
I don't notice any improvement in the camera or lens performance. I had hoped that Olympus would have done something to recover the ground lost to Panasonic with the more responsive GF-1.
I was also not impressed with the whole update progress. What's wrong with the quicker, simpler approach of loading the update onto a memory card and inserting it into the camera which everybody else uses? By the time I'd (re)installed the hated Master programme, then discovered that the standard USB cable left permanently attached to my PC didn't actually fit the EP-1, retreived the Olympus cable and run the upgrade process twice - once for the camera and again for the lens, a whole hour had passed.
I still like the camera though .......
Too many cameras, too little time.
Golly, I can't wait to go through this myself. I think I will just try to get home a little early and do it while I have customer service on the line.
Just updated both, camera and lens firmware. In good light conditions, AF seems noticeably faster with the pancake, but not so much with the kit zoom. Yet, the update does not make the pen a speed demon. The time between locking AF and shutter release still doesn't impress me, whether with the 17mm or the zoom. Will have to see what the GF1 brings here, but it seems that the Oly firmware update has not risen the bar to unreachable levels.
updated both too. Don't see(feel) any improvements :sleep006:
I have just updated the firmware of my E-P1 and 14-42 zoom lens. There is a definite improvement but autofocus still isn't anything exceptional. I have only tried average indoor night lighting and poor indoor lighting. This is how it fares...
C-AF now works indoors in average indoor night lighting at both ends of the zoom. Previously I couldn't get C-AF to work indoors in average lighting at all. It is quite klutzy compared to my old Sony DSC-V3 so won't be using it (whereas I used C-AF from the hybrid AF system in the Sony most of the time). Not really an issue for me. The C-AF is quite crude and you could not use C-AF for tracking or in the movie mode.
S-AF seems to be around 1/3rd faster. Still not lightening fast but the improvement is noticeable. I tested the focus times in average indoor lighting to be around 1.1 to 1.3 seconds before upgrade and around 0.7 to 0.8s after upgrade. Considering the light level, this is adequate for me. The camera will now focus in average indoor lighting levels at the f/5.6 end of the zoom. It did not do this before.
In poor lighting (meter ISO400, 1/2.5s to 1/3s and f/3.5) can now achieve focus in around 1s in S-AF. I could not focus with this level of light before. C-AF will even work in this mode but you wouldn't want to use it.
This is a big improvement and you would have to wonder why they shipped the camera as it was before.
I haven’t tried it in normal lighting levels but my guess is there wouldn’t be much improvement. I think the bottom line is that the AF motors in the Olympus lenses are not the speediest.
I also tried it with my Panasonic 45-200 zoom at the wide end (f/4) and while I didn’t test this before, it may be marginally faster but there isn’t much in it. I can focus in both average indoor lighting and the poor lighting level as described above. In the higher lighting level, I can also focus at the f/5.6 end of the zoom which I could not do before. It is quite weird using the Panasonic zoom which is silent as I also use the noise of the Olympus lens as my focus confirmation.
It is a worthwhile upgrade and I recommend you do it for both camera and the Olympus lenses.
I like the improvement in speed & accuracy with the 17/2.8. Not huge, but definitely noticeable, IMHO.
4/3 and m4/3 systems | Nikon and Sony APS-C and FF gear
I still haven't been able to get it to work. I am now going to try it on a different computer. I have registered so many times it is crazy. It just doesn't make any sense as to why I keep getting the results shown above.
It is working fine on another computer. Not sure why it likes my Macbook Air and doesn't like my iMac 24.
Some people are now saying that the shutter half press is faster than the AEL button for focus. I really don't think so. Here is another video:
First up E-P1 with Mode 3 AEL lock and 14-42 lens
Second E-P1 with Mode 1 shutter half press 14-42 lens
Third E-P1 with Panasonic 14-140 lens begins at 45 second mark
Fourth GH1 with Oly 14-42 lens
Fifth GH1 with Panny 14-140 lens begins at 1:26 mark
Well, it's a start - at least heading in the right direction... if it stops the incessant bashing then it will have been worth it :sleep006:
The bottleneck for CDAF speed is mainly in the lenses - Panasonic use smooth, silent wave type motors (apart from the 20mm f1.7 which may use something a bit slower/noisier) for focusing in their Lumix lenses... and it shows!
Here's what I got as a personal firmware update...no one else got this....
I have to bend down like I'm tying my shoes.....staying very discreet on the street....
I then extend the official Olympus Tape Measure/focus scale out to 30' (sorry, they have it in feet only and not in meters)...but a future firmware will be a meters tape...
then lock the official tape measure and discreetly stand up...gaze around to my subject...staying very discreet so as not to let them know I am a photographer....
The official Olympus E-P1 Streetshooter's bag will look like a carpenters apron with a pocket for the tape and the camera..it will even hold an extra lens...
Now, your subjects will think you are not a photographer and will not pay attention to you....
You then gaze to the tape measure and read the color coded markings to set your focus distance.....
This is a great firmware update for me....By the way, the official Olympus Focus Scale Tape Measure and combo bag will not work with any other camera system....
Now that the AF works so much better...it really does, I think I can just focus on the tape and not have to use manual focus....
that's a great advantage.....
Thanks Olympus.........ya really made my day.......Shooter
Since you seem to have all of the stuff is there any difference in focus speed when using the Panny lens on the the E-P1 versus the Oly lenses? I can see an improvement on the 17mm Oly but it still doesn't seem to match what I have seen on the G1. Comments please?
Panny lenses are still faster than Oly lenses. Panny AF is still faster than Oly.
You can see it in the second video. See the post above with the timings of when the certain clips start.
In that video you have the Pen with the 14-140 and the GH1 with the same lens. You can also see the GH1 with the 14-42.
The Pen with the 14-140 is the fastest Pen/lens combo.
The Pen with the 14-140 seems to be the same speed as the GH1 with the Oly 14-42
The Pen with the 14-42 is slower than the GH1 with the 14-42
The GH1 with the 14-140 is still by a decently large margin the fastest
This is by sight/feel. We will have to see if DPReview re tests it with the new firmware.
Last edited by Terry; 15th September 2009 at 19:22. Reason: typos
Thanks Terry. Good to know. I was trying some shots this evening with the Penn and it is still too slow except when you are taking slow deliberate shots.
Watch the first video...for low light
The pen is also noticably faster with the Panny 14-45 than with the 14-42.
I.e. pen with pancake and panny 14-45 seems to be the fastest pen combo.
Except for jpeg IQ (color) and looks, Oly seems to have missed so many low hanging fruit with the pen, including the wobbly kit zoom with no hood and easy filter mount solution.
Did the update. Body and lens and YES it is faster !!
Even in low light it finds its focus. Well, it is not blazing fast, but noticably faster than before. It is a step in the right direction.
Are you guys seeing results using multiple focus points as well as just the center focus point?
When you purchase the E-P1 do you get the serial number for Olympus Studio/Master? Is it somewhere in the box?
It will be kinda foolish if one has to buy the software before they can update camera's firmware.
Thanks for any help.
You don't need to buy software to do the upgrade. You just need to install the one piece of software and register your camera (need camera serial number).
I did a bit more testing with the Olympus 14-42 and Panasonic 45-200 lenses and here are my findings...
I tested the Olympus 14-42 in poor indoor light and S-AF. The camera settings were ISO1600, 1/15s f/3.5 - i.e. at the 14mm end. I consistently get around 1s for focus and shoot speed. Up the light level a bit to ISO1600, 1/400s and f/3.5 and I get the same focus and shoot speeds.
Just judging the time to lock focus (easy to do on the Olypmus lens as the focus motor is so noisy), it seems to be around 0.9 to 0.8s and around 2/3s respectively. These of course are estimates as I don't have any fancy timing gear.
It seems very odd that the press to shoot time didn't improve despite the increase in lighting levels.
The same deal with the Panasonic 45-200 zoom at the 45mm end and f/4. It is harder to judge the focus lock speed as this lens is essentially silent. Focus and shoot speed is around 1s and 0.5s respectively. I was surprised that the Panasonic lens did not do better in the poorer light. Maybe the loss of about 1/3 stop makes a difference.
The biggest improvement in the new E-P1 firmware seems to be in face detection. It makes portrait shooting quite a bit easier...
Just wave the E-P1 in the general direction of your subject, wait for the white box to highlight the face and squeeze the shutter release button... you should get a green box on the face where focus has locked on and shoot.
E-P1 + ZD 35-100mm f2 using CDAF with fast face detect.
1/160s f/2.0 at 57.0mm iso200
...and in much lower light, here's a shot with the ZD 50 wide open at f2, ISO 4000
E-P1 + ZD 50mm f2
1/100s f/2.0 at 50.0mm iso4000
With the 20mm f1.7, in body stabilisation, fast face detection and great high ISO performance, the E-P1 will be an excellent compact low light option.
Here are a couple of examples taken this afternoon with the ZD 50mm f2 outside... the new fast face detection is making quite a difference to the number of sharp images I'm getting with the E-P1.
I'll be using the optically superb ZD 50mm f2 for portraits much more now - zero correction required!
E-P1 + ZD 50mm f2
1/125s f/4.0 at 50.0mm iso200
E-P1 + ZD 50mm f2
1/160s f/4.0 at 50.0mm iso200