GF1 compared to E-P1

[barjohn]

I'm not sure I would draw the same conclusion. First, in B&W these files can look pretty good and it really depends on what size you will be printing. Up to about 8x10 these files can print pretty nice with a little bit of post processing. Remember, I did no post processing but these are straight out of the camera and into LR with LR's default settings. With a little work in Bibble Pro 5 and printed at 5x7 you would have a hard time knowing they were ISO 3200 files without serious pixel peeping.

 

[jonoslack]

Hi John
Thank you very much for this.
The IS in the EP-1 seems like the killer stroke for me.
Now I'm wishing I hadn't given mine to Silas :angel::shocked:

 

[Terry]

The jpeg/raw difference shouldn't be impacted by the size you chose but will most definitely be impacted by your other jpeg settings. I believe you've set the GF1 to vivid and not sure what else you've set.

 

[Brian Mosley]

Thanks John, the last set of low light shots are pretty convincing. :bugeyes:

 

[barjohn]

Terry, You can correct me if I am wrong but I believe that setting the film mode to vibrant only effects the JPGs and does not effect the raw files on the GF1. Other GF1 settings:
Aspect Ratio 4:3, Picture size L, quality RAW + FINE, Face recognition off, Metering Mode multi, White balance Auto, Auto Focus Mode 1-Area, Color space Adobe RGBHistogram displayed.

E-P1 settings:
Picture Mode Natural (all sub settings at 0), Gradation Normal,Still Picture L SF + RAW, Aspect 4:3, Image stabilizer I.S. 1, AF Area Spot, Exposure metering Area (all), Noise reduction off, Noise filter STD, WB Auto, Color space Adobe RGB, Shading Comp Off.

I hope this answers any questions remaining about how the pictures were taken.

 

[Terry]

Terry, You can correct me if I am wrong but I believe that setting the film mode to vibrant only effects the JPGs and does not effect the raw files on the GF1. Other GF1 settings:
Aspect Ratio 4:3, Picture size L, quality RAW + FINE, Face recognition off, Metering Mode multi, White balance Auto, Auto Focus Mode 1-Area, Color space Adobe RGBHistogram displayed.

But you made the point that the RAW vs Jpeg exposures weren't looking the same on the GF1. If you are messing around with the film modes are you are changing around the basic processing and tone curve the jpeg engine is using and the more you change from standard jpegs the more I would expect the untouched RAW to look different than the jpeg.

If you are talking about RAW vs RAW between the E-P1 and the GF1 we already know from the G1 that it seems to be more sensitive than the reported ISO. So, if this has carried on to the GF1 I wouldn't be in the least bit surprised. I've heard anything from about 1/2 stop to one full stop difference.

 

[barjohn]

I understand what you are saying, but the difference in brightness between the RAW and JPG should not be that significant. Maybe I am wrong about that. I will try a shot setting the film mode to standard and post the results.

 

[barjohn]

Ok, here is a test shot. The camera is set to standard. I am posting two sets of shots so you can see the histogram first set for JPG and second set for RAW. Even here you can see that the RAW levels are higher.

 

[Cindy Flood]

Ok, here is a test shot. The camera is set to standard. I am posting two sets of shots so you can see the histogram first set for JPG and second set for RAW. Even here you can see that the RAW levels are higher.

:deadhorse::deadhorse::deadhorse:
This seems insignificant to me. We don't know what jpg the camera is using to display the thumbnail for the raw (what tone curve is used). It might be a little different than the jpeg setting that you chose for your comparison (standard). I'd guess that accounts for that tiny difference.
....now we need to just go take pictures.

 

[Cindy Flood]

Hi John
Thank you very much for this.
The IS in the EP-1 seems like the killer stroke for me.
Now I'm wishing I hadn't given mine to Silas :angel::shocked:

Different strokes for different folks....
The lack of an EVF on the E-P1 was more important in my decision to go to the GF1 than the IS (which is important, too. I can't wait till I can have both.)

 

[Diane B]

Different strokes for different folks....
The lack of an EVF on the E-P1 was more important in my decision to go to the GF1 than the IS (which is important, too. I can't wait till I can have both.)

That's my feeling also. I've found that I just need a VF at times (not meaning to :deadhorse::deadhorse::deadhorse: ) but I just find it difficult for anyone to say that there aren't times.....

Would I occasionally like IBIS???--yes, might be nice, but I just tried some 1/10s (shooting manual) in very dark powder room GF1/20) and with the way I normally shoot handheld--brace myself and arms, hold breath--my shots were quite sharp. That wouldn't happen with a longer lens probably w/o IS, but for now I'll just live with what I have and make the best of really low light situations using manual settings, ISO, good handholding--and figure I made the better choice for me. I've been shooting low light for years with the 5D with fast primes, higher ISO and good handholding, so to have a really small capable camera with interchangeable lenses is just wonderful for me.

I think everyone just needs to choose which camera works best for them for their shooting. We obviously can't have both EVF and IBIS now LOL--so choose your 'weapons' and get out there and shoot.

Diane

 

[Brian Mosley]

Well, not wishing to :deadhorse::deadhorse::deadhorse:

...but having the G1 + E-P1 with the 20mm f1.7 on the way, I feel like I have the best of both worlds. A proper EVF cam with articulating LCD, and a proper rangefinder style cam with stabilisation for all lenses

The only thing missing is the GH1 for proper video... but I'm not a videographer so I'll wait and see what Oly have lined up for us

Still saving for the Lumix 7-14 and Leica 45mm f2.8

Cheers

Brian

 

[kweide]

Brian,

dont you have the Panasonic DMW-MA1 Adpater ??? :ROTFL: :ROTFL::deadhorse:

 

[barjohn]

Earlier there was some discussion about the LCDs and how they compared. While the camera shots don't quite convey the differences as the eye sees it, I think you will still be able to see what I mean.

The first shot is with the GF1 LCD set to max color saturation and the LCD Mode to Power Brightness. The second shot has the cameras the same but taken from an above viewing angle. The third shot is with the GF1 LCD color saturation set to 0 (mid point) and LCD mode to normal. The fourth shot is taken from an above angle with the setting the same as for 3.

 

[Guy Mancuso]

Geez is that horse dead yet or what :ROTFL:. Have to find some more smiles for you folks. :clap::clap::clap:

 

[nostatic]

Can you find a beating a dead cow emoticon? At least that way we could make burgers when we're done...

 

[Guy Mancuso]

Been thinking of the Chick-fila ads here in the states . For our international members it usually is a ad with cows saying eat more chicken. They have many commercials that are quite funny but it basically promotes eating chicken than us cows. Love to have some of those graphics. :ROTFL:

Something like this

 

[Streetshooter]

John,
Thank you again kind sir.
The LCD shots clears the issue for me...
Shooter

 

[Terry]

John,
Thank you again kind sir.
The LCD shots clears the issue for me...
Shooter

What does it clear? Inquiring minds want to know.

 

[Vivek]

John, Put a polarizer on the taking lens and do a repeat of the side by side TFT display shot.

My cheap monitors have excellent contrast and "brilliant" colors compared to a "proof" monitor that just displays what the print would look like.