I think from what I understand the hard part is that you cannot set the diafragma manually, so you will only be able to shoot wide open. I also looked at that really great Macro lens.
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Macro options for m4/3
- Thread starter 47th_vacuum_space
- Start date
V
Vivek
Guest
No. Use it on a FF Canon body. That lens deserves a good/fully compatible system camera.
f6cvalkyrie
Well-known member
I will report on it, Diane, as soon as I receive it, which will be, I hope, veeerrry soon
C U,
Rafael
apicius9
New member
I'm so weak I just snapped this one up on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250524795362&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Always wanted to try one of these bellows. Of course, I could have spent a fraction of the money for a Canon FD one, but with all the c-mounts I have around, I wanted to play with that a little bit. We'll see what happens when it gets here... Does anybody happen to know anything about the Schneider 80/2.8? What I found on the web was consistently very promising.
Stefan
I just snapped this one up on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250524795362&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Always wanted to try one of these bellows. Of course, I could have spent a fraction of the money for a Canon FD one, but with all the c-mounts I have around, I wanted to play with that a little bit. We'll see what happens when it gets here... Does anybody happen to know anything about the Schneider 80/2.8? What I found on the web was consistently very promising.
Stefan
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V
Vivek
Guest
Stefan, Google. Xenotar is the Schneider version of the Zeiss Planar.
I think you did good.
I think you did good.
47th_vacuum_space
Member
OK, here are some results with the Olympus Pen 40mm and 60mm lenses, with extension tube set. An incredibly inexpensive and effective solution, I think. The 40, with its already close focus, is the ideal lens to use with the tubes.
(This, by the way, is a single chicken feather lying in the grass.)
(Leica M2 with Canon 35/1.8 lens.)
(This, by the way, is a single chicken feather lying in the grass.)
(Leica M2 with Canon 35/1.8 lens.)
JBurnett
Well-known member
Very nice photos and great examples of what one can achieve with the setup. By inexpensive, I guess you mean the tubes, because it's increasingly difficult to find these lenses selling cheaply any more (especially the 60mm!)
47th_vacuum_space
Member
Yes, it's the tubes that were cheap, $40 from KEH! But I did manage to find the 40/1.4 for $100 on eBay. The 60 is another story...
btrancho
New member
Godfrey - have you actually gotten the EC14 to work with the Panasonic DMW-MA1 adapter? The Panasonic site lists it as incompatible, along with the EC20 and the EX25 extension ring. I tried the EX25 (in spite of the warning) and found it didn't work, as stated. I have the ZD 35 macro and if you have the EC14 working I'd love to give it a go.
BTW - though not really macro, the 20/1.7 with the Canon 250D or any other decent close up adapters does a credible job for close up work.
V
Vivek
Guest
I tried all the diopters I have (Macrotars, Elpros, Olympus close ups, Canon Ds,..) not much of a difference in magnifications with that 20/1.7.
S
sagarmatha
Guest
Well, if you put a 500D (D=2.0) in front of a 200 mm lens then you increase the magnification to 0.40. If you put it on a 20 mm the magnification will only be 0.04. In both cases when the lens is focused to infinity.
Some wise worths one the usage of diopters here:http://home.sprintmail.com/~awiner/diopters.html
It is not al about magnification...
A diopter adds some magnification to your image. If you can focus from the same distance with the same zoom with and without the diopter, it seems the image is a bit bigger with the diopter. (At one such setting on the F-717, a +5 diopter adds about 20% of magnification.) This is very nice, but is not the really big win.
The big win is that a diopter changes the focus range of your lens. Diopters come in powers from +1 to +5 (that I've seen). They're also stackable: you can put a +4 diopter on top of another +4 diopter, and conveniently that gives you the effect of a +8 diopter. (Quality does suffer when you stack.) The higher the number, the more powerful the diopter. The more powerful the diopter, the closer you can focus. Specifically: divide 100 centimeters by the diopter power. That's the maximum focus distance of the diopter. A +5 diopter focuses at 20 centimeters or less. A +2 diopter focuses at 50 centimeters or less.
Read more on the URL above
It is not al about magnification...
A diopter adds some magnification to your image. If you can focus from the same distance with the same zoom with and without the diopter, it seems the image is a bit bigger with the diopter. (At one such setting on the F-717, a +5 diopter adds about 20% of magnification.) This is very nice, but is not the really big win.
The big win is that a diopter changes the focus range of your lens. Diopters come in powers from +1 to +5 (that I've seen). They're also stackable: you can put a +4 diopter on top of another +4 diopter, and conveniently that gives you the effect of a +8 diopter. (Quality does suffer when you stack.) The higher the number, the more powerful the diopter. The more powerful the diopter, the closer you can focus. Specifically: divide 100 centimeters by the diopter power. That's the maximum focus distance of the diopter. A +5 diopter focuses at 20 centimeters or less. A +2 diopter focuses at 50 centimeters or less.
Read more on the URL above
petermcwerner
Member
Much has already been written in this thread, so I would like to show one of my setups with the results. The lens is a Kern Yvar 75mm/2.5 used with a set of extension tubes on the G1, which in turn was fixed to a 4 way focusing rail on a tripod. Available light from the nearby window. The subject is an inflorescence of Oncydium Twinkle Twinkle Little Star orchids. Each flower has an actual width of 12mm. All G1 pictures at ISO=100, raws developed in RAW Therapee, resized with gimp. The setup was taken with a Micro Nikkor 105mm/2.8 on a D700 and in-camera flash
The whole setup
A complete set of Bolex extension tubes. You can get similar C-Mount tubes from various sources, such as Edmund Optics or on ebay with some patience.
One inflorescence using the 10+25mm rings. On my screen the flowers are about 5 times lifesize
Kern Yvar 75mm/2.5 with 10mm+50mm extension rings. As I already mentioned, the actual width of the flower is 12mm. On my screen it looks about 15 times lifesize
The whole setup
A complete set of Bolex extension tubes. You can get similar C-Mount tubes from various sources, such as Edmund Optics or on ebay with some patience.
This 4-way focusing rail can be found on ebay.
I also have a Nikon one, but it interfered with the shape of the G1 body and cannot be used with the G1
I also have a Nikon one, but it interfered with the shape of the G1 body and cannot be used with the G1
One inflorescence using the 10+25mm rings. On my screen the flowers are about 5 times lifesize
Kern Yvar 75mm/2.5 with 10mm+50mm extension rings. As I already mentioned, the actual width of the flower is 12mm. On my screen it looks about 15 times lifesize
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I use various setups.
I have a Canon 250D achromat in 52mm for the 14-45 and 45-200 which is very small and goes everywhere where the other two lenses go.
My most useful (in my terms) macro setup is a 200/4 AI Micro-Nikkor on adapter. I really like longer macro lenses, and this is just great for choosing the correct background.
I also have a late version 55/3.5 Micro Nikkor which is superb and relatively compact.
Then there is my Leica Bellows II for M which takes various lenses, from the 65/3.5 Elmar, 135 Tele-Elmar, Zeiss 60/4 Orthoplanar-S, Olympus 38/3.5 macro, Focotars, and especially my set of Photars: 25mm, 50mm, 80mm and 120mm. The Photars are hard to top. I can also put the m4/3 cameras on the back of the Aristophot:
http://gallery.leica-users.org/v/hwulff/Stuff/IMG_1438.jpg.html
The Photors are also very handy (especially the 80) with various tubes and adapters and Pentax and Kilfitt helicoid extension tubes. This would make my smallest very high quality macro setup.
Henning
I have a Canon 250D achromat in 52mm for the 14-45 and 45-200 which is very small and goes everywhere where the other two lenses go.
My most useful (in my terms) macro setup is a 200/4 AI Micro-Nikkor on adapter. I really like longer macro lenses, and this is just great for choosing the correct background.
I also have a late version 55/3.5 Micro Nikkor which is superb and relatively compact.
Then there is my Leica Bellows II for M which takes various lenses, from the 65/3.5 Elmar, 135 Tele-Elmar, Zeiss 60/4 Orthoplanar-S, Olympus 38/3.5 macro, Focotars, and especially my set of Photars: 25mm, 50mm, 80mm and 120mm. The Photars are hard to top. I can also put the m4/3 cameras on the back of the Aristophot:
http://gallery.leica-users.org/v/hwulff/Stuff/IMG_1438.jpg.html
The Photors are also very handy (especially the 80) with various tubes and adapters and Pentax and Kilfitt helicoid extension tubes. This would make my smallest very high quality macro setup.
Henning
slau
New member
I no longer have access to a 1DsMk3 or 5D2. What do you think of using a 1Ds or 1DMk3 instead for comparison? What kind of subject matter?
Or, you don't mind to wait a few months for the 1DMk4
.
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I think any comparison would be interesting. I have both cameras but I do not have an adapter to use a canon EOS lens on my GF1. If i still had my leica 100mm macro, i would have selected this lens since it is such a great optic.
I no longer have access to a 1DsMk3 or 5D2. What do you think of using a 1Ds or 1DMk3 instead for comparison? What kind of subject matter?
Or, you don't mind to wait a few months for the 1DMk4