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Contax G to MFT adapter - anyone?

monza

Active member
The second production run is in process and should ship about May 10.

Regarding the lens release, it will appear as in the picture on the right; it's an Allen screw. Pushing downward on the screw head (i.e., towards the camera's lens release button) will release the Contax lens, so it can be rotated in the mount and removed.
 
H

Halcyon

Guest
Interesting: your solution is at the opposite of RJ's and clones (Fotodiox, ...) and it sounds good to me.

On these adapters, contrary to what you may expect, pushing downward on the release button's stair-like side doesn't free the latch: you have to push it upward! So it's easier to withdraw the lens+adapter unit from the camera, turn it upside down and then press the button downward.

If my understanding is right, your adapter may stay on the camera body when lens is released. It's a true improvement :thumbup:.
 
U

unary

Guest
Hi Manza,
Have you considered a silver colored version?
As silver E-P1 owner, the brass wheel would bring too much blingbling for me :)
Thanks
 

monza

Active member
No, all will be black body with brass thumbwheel. Plating the brass would mean a new round of protos to make sure it didn't change tolerances with the adapter body, and I don't want to spend any more money on that. ;)
 
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unary

Guest
No, all will be black body with brass thumbwheel. Plating the brass would mean a new round of protos to make sure it didn't change tolerances with the adapter body, and I don't want to spend any more money on that. ;)
understand. Guess I will just have to get a black body:deadhorse:
 

carlosecpf

New member
Just placed an order, Robert!
I will be picking-up my brand new E-P2 on sunday afternoon! Can't wait to use all my Contax G glass again!
 

seakayaker

Active member
GH1, 45/2 Planar 1/15th @ ISO 800, crappy kitchen lighting :)

That is a beautiful shot! Sharp as a tack!

. . . . . waiting patiently for the assembly to be completed and the shipping notification to arrive in my inbox!

Life is Grand!
~ :):):):);)
 
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panamamike

Guest
I've been reading the thread, pretty cool stuff.
Wanted to know if there is any chance an adapter can be made for the other Contax g lenses. Notably the 28mm Biogon.

I saw the thread in which someone adapted the lens by cutting off the legs. It worked but results where poor. My guess is those legs are there for a reason. Maybe focal length to the sensor?

I've never handled a Contax G cam, so I wonder how the lens originally fit on that cam.

Let me know if my thinking is wrong.

Mike
 

monza

Active member
The 'legs' are rear element guards since the glass is exposed.

The 21 and 28 lenses are not great performers in the corners as the light hits the sensor at too oblique an angle for a digital sensor.
 

scho

Well-known member
I've been reading the thread, pretty cool stuff.
Wanted to know if there is any chance an adapter can be made for the other Contax g lenses. Notably the 28mm Biogon.

I saw the thread in which someone adapted the lens by cutting off the legs. It worked but results where poor. My guess is those legs are there for a reason. Maybe focal length to the sensor?

I've never handled a Contax G cam, so I wonder how the lens originally fit on that cam.

Let me know if my thinking is wrong.

Mike
I thought that the "legs" were simply for protection of the extended rear element, but if there is another function I don't know what it is. Perhaps Robert or someone else would know. In any event, I cut off the "legs" from my 28 Biogon yesterday and have not experienced any adverse effects in use on my m43 cameras. There is some corner softness with my copy, but not as severe as I exepected. If you need perfectly sharp edge to edge performance on m43 then the 35 and 45 are much better options. Here are a few shots I took this morning with the 28 biogon on my G1-IR.

A "bokeh" shot at f/2.8



Garden at f/5.6



Rock garden at f/8

 

photoSmart42

New member
I've never handled a Contax G cam, so I wonder how the lens originally fit on that cam.
The Contax G has a focal plane shutter which operates right in front of the film, and everything in between is basically empty space (no mirror since it's a rangefinder). I think only the G1 green label and the G2 cameras were able to fit these wider lenses. So they fit by simply sticking them into the empty hole, and the legs at the back of the lens went almost to the shutter.
 

photoSmart42

New member
In any event, I cut off the "legs" from my 28 Biogon yesterday and have not experienced any adverse effects in use on my m43 cameras. There is some corner softness with my copy, but not as severe as I exepected.
Nice photos! You wouldn't see a lot of adverse effects of poor edge performance on lenses when mounted on the m4/3 camera because the m4/3 sensor crops the image, so it only sees the center of the image the lens produces. I suspect if you somehow put this lens on a FF sensor you'd see some adverse effects.
 
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panamamike

Guest
The 'legs' are rear element guards since the glass is exposed.

The 21 and 28 lenses are not great performers in the corners as the light hits the sensor at too oblique an angle for a digital sensor.
Is this something that only occurs at the corners? I've seen some C-mount lenses that vignette instead of blur...

Which lens would you recommend in the 25-28 mm range? Or are they all going to share the same problem?

Mike
 
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panamamike

Guest
I thought that the "legs" were simply for protection of the extended rear element, but if there is another function I don't know what it is. Perhaps Robert or someone else would know. In any event, I cut off the "legs" from my 28 Biogon yesterday and have not experienced any adverse effects in use on my m43 cameras. There is some corner softness with my copy, but not as severe as I exepected. If you need perfectly sharp edge to edge performance on m43 then the 35 and 45 are much better options. Here are a few shots I took this morning with the 28 biogon on my G1-IR.
A "bokeh" shot at f/2.8
Garden at f/5.6
Rock garden at f/8
The photos are fantastic! the "bokeh" makes the blur at edges insignificant. I'm still wondering if there might be a better choice at 25 - 28mm lens. I'm looking for a fast lens for low light indoor.

Also, if possible I'd like to avoid modifying the original lens, part of why I asked my original question.

Mike
 
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panamamike

Guest
Nice photos! You wouldn't see a lot of adverse effects of poor edge performance on lenses when mounted on the m4/3 camera because the m4/3 sensor crops the image, so it only sees the center of the image the lens produces.
How do these lenses perform in 16x9 mode?

Mike
 

photoSmart42

New member
The photos are fantastic! the "bokeh" makes the blur at edges insignificant. I'm still wondering if there might be a better choice at 25 - 28mm lens. I'm looking for a fast lens for low light indoor.
Do you need something specifically in that focal length? There's nothing wrong with using the Pana 20/1.7 for your purposes, and it's cheaper than any of the Zeiss/Contax G lenses, it can do AF, and has just as good sharpness.

Also, if possible I'd like to avoid modifying the original lens, part of why I asked my original question.
No, unfortunately, I believe the legs stick into the m4/3 cavity too deep, and they'll either hit the sides of the sensor well, or they'll be in the way of the shutter curtain.

How do these lenses perform in 16x9 mode?
Should be no difference. 16x9 mode crops the top/bottom of the sensor output, so you're using less than the full sensor. By that same token, you can use a 25mm C-mount (designed for a 1" sensor) in 16x9 and reduce whatever slight vignetting you may normally see.
 
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panamamike

Guest
Do you need something specifically in that focal length? There's nothing wrong with using the Pana 20/1.7 for your purposes, and it's cheaper than any of the Zeiss/Contax G lenses, it can do AF, and has just as good sharpness.
I thought the Contax G lenses would provide better performance than the Pana 20/1.7. I wanted a good low light lens to compliment the 14-140mm on the GH1. I've seen examples where the 14-140 doesn't do well in low light.

I've also read some things related to 50mm being good for WYSIWYG photography. Since the FL of a lens is 2x on a m43 I figured I need to find a 25mm to get that effect. Also figured the super fast lenses may be better than the 20/1.7.

OT: So far I've picked up the 45mm, in transit. I also need to figure which adapter will work best. That's how I found this thread. Monza's adapter looks really nice. Anyone have experience with it yet?

Mike
 
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