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GF1-IR, take 2

scho

scho

Well-known member
Vivek said:
Short answer, is yes and no.

With a Baader Planetarium 2" fringe killer filter (pricey) and custom WB, it comes close but not there yet.

With the B+W filter you could try adding a cyan filter. BG39 and the like. I will check those combos shortly.

..and David, I look forward to your pictorial contributions! :)
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Have you tried the CC1 or CC2 filters?
 
V

Vivek

Guest
Carl, When I have a box (cubic meter area) full of real bandpass filters bought from the sources, why would I bother with re-badged/overpriced/incorrectly specified thingies? ;)
 
V

Vivek

Guest
May be. The "CC2" could be Schott KG5 and the "X-nite" could be Hoya U330.

I have them (the real things) all (in various sizes and thicknesses) and more.;)
 
R

Rich M

Member
Here is another one with the GH-1 + 7-14mm.

Converted in C1 and added "false color" Jack's action. Thanks to all who contribute regularly on this thread. It certainly hastens the learning curve.

 
Terry

Terry

New member
Thanks all! The GF1 really is quite a nice camera for IR. I had it tucked into my handbag with the Oly 14-42 which is very small when collapsed.
 
D

Diane B

New member
Your IR is just a terrific shot here. Just guessing from Uwe that the dominant tree would not be a plus in a normal b & w. I like the ocmposition quite a lot.
 
C

CVickery

Member
Interesting thread. I just picked up a IR coverted G1. Unfortunately I use V4 of C1 and the G1 isn't supported, so I'll have to play around a bit to try for false color images. Here's one of my first, B&W, shot with the Contax G 45/2.



Here's one with the 20/1.7...I noticed that this lens doesn't achieve infinity focus when shooting IR, until it's stopped down. Makes focusing a pain.

 
V

Vivek

Guest
CVickery said:
Here's one with the 20/1.7...I noticed that this lens doesn't achieve infinity focus when shooting IR, until it's stopped down. Makes focusing a pain.
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Instead of blaming the lens you should blame the botched up conversion. On my hacked G1, the 20/1.7 can go well past infinity (even with a 1000nm filter) if I want it to.
 
C

CVickery

Member
Vivek said:
Instead of blaming the lens you should blame the botched up conversion. On my hacked G1, the 20/1.7 can go well past infinity (even with a 1000nm filter) if I want it to.
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Very interesting...I'm a noob when it comes to IR and I bought the camera second hand. I just assumed that it was an issue resulting from shooting IR rather than visible light. I don't know much about them but the conversion was done by Spencer's Camera with a 720nm filter. I'm not sure what can be done about it now, since I'm not the original purchaser.

I'll have to play with it a bit more and see how big an issue this is.
 
V

Vivek

Guest
Can you not ask the previous owner and through them Spencer? When the registry isn't set properly, there isn't much one can do, unfortunately.

See here for a few samples taken with f/0.95 lenses:
http://forum.getdpi.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9957

The Pana 20/1.7 works beautifully even wide open at infinity, btw. Stopping down below f/3.2, you tend to lose a bit of details.
 
C

CVickery

Member
Vivek said:
Can you not ask the previous owner and through them Spencer? When the registry isn't set properly, there isn't much one can do, unfortunately.

See here for a few samples taken with f/0.95 lenses:
http://forum.getdpi.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9957

The Pana 20/1.7 works beautifully even wide open at infinity, btw. Stopping down below f/3.2, you tend to lose a bit of details.
Click to expand...
Already done. I've had an email back from Spencer's saying that it could be any number of things and wants me to send the camera and lens to him for diagnosis. It doesn't sound unreasonable, but I suspect I wouldn't get it back for a while. Added to that is the trouble of sending the camera over the border and then back.

I may just search around locally to see if anyone can recalibrate the G1. Worse case I'll just use it with my other lenses for now, they seem to work OK.
 
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