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Pentax 110 lenses - Picture Thread

The following pictures have all been taken with a Pentax 110 18mm/2.8 lens fully open. The lens has no diaphragm and was mounted on the G1 through the Hawk adapter. All pictures hand held, uncropped, re-sized for the web and slightly sharpened. RAW files developed with RAW Therapee and resized with Gimp.




Vines - in the Background Lake Geneva and French Alps



Rose Trees



Wood near Gilly




Vinzel Pond




Bursins Pond




Laboured Soil




After the wedding party ?




Dead Leaves
 

laptoprob

New member
Nice, Peter. It has quite a 'hotspot' in sharpness! Must go and use mine. And compare it to the zoom. Hood or no hood?
 

pellicle

New member
rob

It has quite a 'hotspot' in sharpness!
found the same with my 18 and 24 ... the 50 less so. As the 50 wide makes a nice portrait lens its my 'keeper' (but I'm not selling the other two ;-)
 
Nice, Peter.
Thank you.

It has quite a 'hotspot' in sharpness! Must go and use mine. And compare it to the zoom. Hood or no hood?
I always use a hood, not only with this lens. Here it is doubly important. Although in the following picture there was no direct sun hitting the lens, you can see that the lens does not like big contrasts. I wonder whether this is what you mean by hotspot.

Also, DOF coverage is quite small at f/2.8. In the Rose Tree picture, where DOF is shallow, the corners are quite sharp; same for the Dead Leaves.

found the same with my 18 and 24 ... the 50 less so.
The 24mm is on it’s way, I am curious to see how it performs. I am less interested in the 50 as over the years I have collected quite a few lenses of this focal length (Zeiss Pancolar and Ultron, Kern Macro Switar, Nikkors, Elmar, Cooke Speed Panchro and Kinetal, Schneider Xenon, Old Delft Alfinon, Russian Helios and more)




Problem with contrasty subjects
 
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pellicle

New member
Hi Peter

I am less interested in the 50 as I already have quite a few lenses with this focal length (Zeiss Pancolar and Ultron, Kern Macro Switar, Nikkors, Elmar, Cooke Speed Panchro and more)

Problem with contrasty subjects
[/CENTER]
of course, I'm occasoinally using my FD f1.4 still too, espeically for shots of stuff that I use on my blog mainly because I do want to stop down. For stick it in the pocket stuff.

BTW: looking at that image it appears you have flare on the lens with the sun being just out of view. I sometimes use my hand to cast a shadow over the lens, and sometimes a hood isn't enough.

Did you read my blog post on the 110's?

I worked in some snow conditions and didn't find the same
 
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I sometimes use my hand to cast a shadow over the lens, and sometimes a hood isn't enough.
True enough, but difficult to do when hand held. This lens has a serious flare problem and initially I wanted to call this thread A Lens NOT to buy

Did you read my blog post on this?
No, could you please give me the address?

Cheers
Peter
 

pellicle

New member
Hi

True enough, but difficult to do when hand held. This lens has a serious flare problem and initially I wanted to call this thread A Lens NOT to buy

No, could you please give me the address?

Cheers
Peter
blog post is here

I normally shield with one hand while holding camera with there other. I can clearly see when my fingers start to intrude in the image and when the shadow hits the lens front (by the contrast drop). I keep my hands as far away as I can from the lens (making their entry into the view clearer)
 

hodad66

Member


just got the adapter and this is the first jpg reduced to700
and slightly sharpened (in reduction)

the 18mm/2.8



70mm with the soligar 2X



the 24mm with a Pentax close-up filter
on my bare knees
in rocks
hand held
 
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just got the adapter and this is the first jpg reduced to700 and slightly sharpened (in reduction)
Thank you for your contribution. Nice subjects, but

the 18mm/2.8
seems to have a problem of flare and/or ghosting

70mm with the soligar 2X
Nice picture and technically fine

the 24mm with a Pentax close-up filteron my bare knees in rocks
hand held
Lovely shot but lots of noise in the background leaves, as already noted by pellicle. High ISO? Heavily cropped?

Cheers
Peter
 
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pellicle

New member
Hodad

Thank you for your contribution. Nice subjects, but

seems to have a problem of flare and/or ghosting
I think I see what Peter is saying, have you checked the optics? My 18 and 24 were rather dusty (front and back). I cleared this up with a bit of soft toilet tissue rolled into a "pen" and a quick squirt of "windex" on the end to use it as a swab

works wonders

don't go spakko on it, but the chromatic coatings aren't harmed with a gentle clean like that with windex (assuming the formula is the same in Florida as it is in Australia / Finland)
 

hodad66

Member
the lenses have been untouched.... no cleaning. ghosting?
maybe it's the light leak in the adapter. As to grain..... yes,
this one I cropped and I believe I upped the ISO as it was
overcast, hand held, on my knees, bent over one foot from
the ground!!! Man, you guys are tough...... :)
 
Peter, since we were talking about flare, I thought I'd spend a few moments and plop this together
FD 1.4, 1.8 OM 1.8 and Pentax 110
Thank you for your test; it is quite revealing. When there is another sunny day (not soon according to the weather forecast) I shall try to make comparison shots of the 18mm Pentax 110 with my only other 18mm lens a Cooke Speed Panchro III (BTW, not exactly the same price league....)
 

Jonas

Active member
Peter, since we were talking about flare, I thought I'd spend a few moments and plop this together
pellicle,

flare tests can be fun. There are two things coming to my mind looking at your setup. Obvious maybe, but anyway;

1) Tube light is flickering light. It changes all the time. To be sure to get "accurate" colour using tubes one has to use a long shutter time. What shutter times did you end up with in your test?

2) It's always iffy comparing lenses at different lens openings. The Pentax f/2.8 lens did well, in some aspects. But, how well would the other lenses have performed if stopped down to f/2.8? Now we of course want to know how the lens behaves wide open so I just mention it.

Anyway, I suspect you used shorter shutter times than around 1/12 which I think would be the fastest one can go and be sure about the colour. As you used Auto WB on the camera that is another factor also making it impossible to say anything about the colours you got.

Yes, I know, never criticize another person's test procedure... I like all lens comparisons and thank you for the images!

/Jonas
 

pellicle

New member
Jonas


1) Tube light is flickering light. It changes all the time. To be sure to get "accurate" colour using tubes one has to use a long shutter time. What shutter times did you end up with in your test?
interesting point ... it was 1/200th and since AC cycle is 60 times per sec I'd need to use something like 1/20th or so

I did not think of your point but as it happened I took 2 sets exposures with each lens and (only published the last set) and I saw similar results each time for the lenses ... its a good point and I'll try to take that out of the equation.

I was looking at this site
http://www.16-9.net/lens_tests/24mmcup/final/24mm_final2.html

which looked like a similar alternating current light source.
I was wanting
2) It's always iffy comparing lenses at different lens openings. The Pentax f/2.8 lens did well, in some aspects. But, how well would the other lenses have performed if stopped down to f/2.8? Now we of course want to know how the lens behaves wide open so I just mention it.
2.8 is wide open ... the lens actually has no aperture. So as stated my test was to compare lenses wide open.

Yes, I know, never criticize another person's test procedure...
not at all ... criticism forms the basis of our system (in science)
 

Jonas

Active member
interesting point ... it was 1/200th and since AC cycle is 60 times per sec I'd need to use something like 1/20th or so

I did not think of your point but as it happened I took 2 sets exposures with each lens and (only published the last set) and I saw similar results each time for the lenses ... its a good point and I'll try to take that out of the equation.

I was looking at this site
http://www.16-9.net/lens_tests/24mmcup/final/24mm_final2.html

which looked like a similar alternating current light source.
I think Hubsand (the 16-9.net world cup referee) uses a Halogen lamp. That's probably as safe as an ordinary and sadly old fashioned bulb. We are slower in Sweden btw, 50Hz sort of folks. :p

But you got the same result in both your series. Hmm. I can't explain that... I would expect some differences and also uneven light over the image. Maybe your tube is a better source than I thought.

Cheers,

/Jonas
 
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