OM-D Image Stabilization

[les]

What to input when manually setting the IS for use with a legacy lens?
You can set the focal length to match the lens, but has the setting to be made in m4/3 terms or in 35mm terms? (I assume manual settings are redundant with m4/3 lenses since the focal length will be picked up automatically).
Would it make any real difference? possibly not, but enquiring minds want to know.....

 

[Glenn]

What to input when manually setting the IS for use with a legacy lens?
You can set the focal length to match the lens, but has the setting to be made in m4/3 terms or in 35mm terms? (I assume manual settings are redundant with m4/3 lenses since the focal length will be picked up automatically).
Would it make any real difference? possibly not, but enquiring minds want to know.....

You set the actual focal length of the legacy lens, i.e. if using a Zuiko 50mm f1.8, you input 50mm. It DOES make quite a difference to the IBIS performance.

 

[les]

You set the actual focal length of the legacy lens, i.e. if using a Zuiko 50mm f1.8, you input 50mm. It DOES make quite a difference to the IBIS performance.

Glenn,

Thanks, that's what I've been doing, but I had small nagging doubt about it, since the manual wasn't specific.
Agree that the IBIS system works well on the OM-D with old lenses. My old 18-200 Tamron was pretty much unusable on a G3.

 

[Annna T]

Glenn,

Thanks, that's what I've been doing, but I had small nagging doubt about it, since the manual wasn't specific.
Agree that the IBIS system works well on the OM-D with old lenses. My old 18-200 Tamron was pretty much unusable on a G3.

Are you changing the focal length indicated for the IBIS each time you are zooming in or out ? That should be a real hassle.. I prefer legacy primes to that .. and keep IBIS off unless needed in order to diminish the hassle.

 

[les]

Well someone who was particularly precise might I suppose adjust the IS setting to match every turn of the zoom lens. (In fact that's not so much of a pain as it might sound - a few seconds to touch a few buttons, easy after you've done it once or twice - except maybe in freezing weather).

But in the real world if i connect the 'big' zoom it's usually going to be just used towards the top end, and so I just set the IS once for the zoom's max (in my case 200) and that seems to work fine - for my purposes at least. Obviously if you're using a legacy prime it's easier to be consistently precise and 'go by the book', by setting the IS once to match the chosen lens.