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OM-D setup

soboyle

New member
Just received the OM-D yesterday, and trying to sort through some of the setting. Some previous threads here were helpful.
One slight annoyance is the delay of the viewfinder to turn on when bringing the camera to your eye. It seems to be a bit less than 1/2 second delay, doesn't sound like long, but it is when there is a quick shot to be had. Is there any tweaks to that timing buried in the menus?
Anyone (besides Olympus) making a grip for this body?
 
D

Devon Shaw

Guest

soboyle

New member
Another issue I see is that the histogram doesn't change when I crank in some exposure compensation. For example when composing a shot I see that there is about one stop of headroom on the histogram, I crank in 1 stop + compensation, but the histogram doesn't reflect that change. Am I missing a setting somewhere?
 

Diane B

New member
Shaun, I'm a very longtime histogram user, both before live when I had go check a histogram in review and for last number of years since G1. I find myself with it turned off and using the shadows/highlight option where I can see and decide exactly what I'll get. Not the option for jpeg. Here's a link for how to set it up and set up its parameters.
User Guide: Getting the most out of the Olympus E-M5: Digital Photography Review
It has replaced the use of the histo for me. One of my favorite things.

Diane
 

jonoslack

Active member
Another issue I see is that the histogram doesn't change when I crank in some exposure compensation. For example when composing a shot I see that there is about one stop of headroom on the histogram, I crank in 1 stop + compensation, but the histogram doesn't reflect that change. Am I missing a setting somewhere?
HI Shaun
I'm with Diane here - definitely the over and under exposure markers are much easier to use . . . and anyway the viewfinder gives you such a good impressioni of what you're going to get the histogram has become rather a distraction for me.

all the best
 

soboyle

New member
Thanks, I'll give that a try, and set the threshold to 250, 5 as they suggest.
Nice camera, like it so far, bought it body only, and using it with the 20 1.7 and the 45 1.8. Trying to decide on a wide option, the Oly 24 f/2 is too rich for me right now.
 

soboyle

New member
I set up shadow/highlight for both evf and lcd. i'm running into the same thing as when I tried to use the exposure compensation with the histogram. If I change the exposure compensation with shadow/highlight active it doesn't change the blue/red areas. I can dial in + 3 stops compensation and it still shows the same blue areas. To be useful it needs to refresh the blue/red areas as compensation is added. Any thoughts?
 

pgmj

Member
Thanks, I'll give that a try, and set the threshold to 250, 5 as they suggest.
Nice camera, like it so far, bought it body only, and using it with the 20 1.7 and the 45 1.8. Trying to decide on a wide option, the Oly 24 f/2 is too rich for me right now.
The Pana GF3 with 14/2.5 (and LR3) is on sale right now (at least in EU), and might be a decent alternative to try out. It isn't quite sharp in the corners, but very small and light and likely performing similarly to the kit zooms (14-42) available. The Oly 9-18 zoom is another light weight "budget" alternative, though quite a bit more expensive and still not performing as well as the Oly 12/2.
 

Diane B

New member
I set up shadow/highlight for both evf and lcd. i'm running into the same thing as when I tried to use the exposure compensation with the histogram. If I change the exposure compensation with shadow/highlight active it doesn't change the blue/red areas. I can dial in + 3 stops compensation and it still shows the same blue areas. To be useful it needs to refresh the blue/red areas as compensation is added. Any thoughts?
Shaun, it does change immediately which is the terrific thing about it. Something must be askew in your setup--easy enough to do LOL. What metering did you select? Ex. with my wide DR view sitting here(big glass doors to outside and shade of porch roof keeping the inside quite dark)--If I select a scene with both the very bright and quite dark and use centered weight and don't move my focus point and adjust my front dial, it will change the orange and blue with just the smallest change of exp. comp., giving me the option as to what I will have to compromise for best exposure.

Did you follow all of the steps through the whole Dpreview setup? It will get you a good basic setup and you can adjust a lot from there--buttons and dials for the functions you want, etc.

So I'd go back through each setting to see what is keeping you from being able to adjust EC.

Diane
 

jonoslack

Active member
I set up shadow/highlight for both evf and lcd. i'm running into the same thing as when I tried to use the exposure compensation with the histogram. If I change the exposure compensation with shadow/highlight active it doesn't change the blue/red areas. I can dial in + 3 stops compensation and it still shows the same blue areas. To be useful it needs to refresh the blue/red areas as compensation is added. Any thoughts?
Is it because of the auto ISO
 

soboyle

New member
My mistake (of course), I had flash exp. compensation set to the main dial, not exp. compensation. No bloody wonder the histogram and shadow/highlight were not reacting when twisting the dial. Works as advertised now.
 

Diane B

New member
My mistake (of course), I had flash exp. compensation set to the main dial, not exp. compensation. No bloody wonder the histogram and shadow/highlight were not reacting when twisting the dial. Works as advertised now.
Well, LOL, I fully understand. I came from years of Canon menus and over 3 years of Panny menus. So, I can only say "been there, done that".

Glad it wasn't any more painful than that--and enjoy.

Diane
 
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