W
wblynch
Guest
Yet I liked them. Gives a perspective.What a stunning capture! shame about the hands
Cheers
Brian
There's always photoshop
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G1?...we don't need no stinking G1/Picture thread
- Thread starter kevinparis
- Start date
There's always photoshop
Michiel Schierbeek
Well-known member
Don't agree. It lifts it above a more regular pano by adding some human perspective.What a stunning capture! shame about the hands
Cheers
Brian
It is a stunning pano indeed.
Michiel
Hey Klaus, I think at some point in his life m3photo must have be in academia - probably teaching English - not that there is anything wrong with that :angel:Upps. thanx a lot. Will use glass, lens, primes, zoom or even sherd in the future....
BTW i use glasses
John: my fault !!!
Please pardon me....
Keith
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m3photo
New member
Re: academia
No, nothing wrong at all. It's just that I discovered that aerial photography is somewhat more, shall we say, "rewarding".
Guilty as charged
No, nothing wrong at all. It's just that I discovered that aerial photography is somewhat more, shall we say, "rewarding".
kweide
New member
My goal was indeed to create a pano which links from left ( the wallparts ) to the right ( the hands ) ,creates a vibrant relationship and creates the vision:
I am in the scene !!
I hoped it ( wall and hands ) would help the viewer to position in the middle of the pano and just let him look as if it were real.
Did i fail ??
Oh, please see the owner of the hands:
I am in the scene !!
I hoped it ( wall and hands ) would help the viewer to position in the middle of the pano and just let him look as if it were real.
Did i fail ??
Oh, please see the owner of the hands:
Brian Mosley
New member
Of course you didn't fail
I would have liked to see more of the person, and/or a version without the hands... but that's my personal imho Nothing detracts from the stunning view and your usual postprocessing magic :thumbup:
Cheers
Brian
J
JayCee
Guest
Thanks for that info and the link to your earlier threads Klaus,
The before and after shots are amazing :thumbs: ...I didn't realise software could improve an image to that degree...I should have Photoshop on my MacBook Pro in a few days and will experiment with some Raw files from my G1.
I note in that thread you stated...
"From ISO 400 :
contrast +2 and saturation -2 in camera setting. I stored them as 2. Setting. Leave the rest to 0.
You will get a flat looking picture but with all details remaining. All you have to do is: Let it pop out. First let a noise removal software run over the pic. I use NOISEWARE in automatic mode so it profiles each picture. It will NOT remove all noisegrain. You will see some grain will stay in the picture but that is ok. In Photoshop ( or whatever you like ) add contrast and colors as you like and add USM. Sometimes i use to add Contrast with soft light in combination, but this is only my taste... Its a few seconds work. Resize the pic to its needed size and RESHARPEN again. Use the simple SHARPEN command in Photoshop or whatever you use and watch the deatils to come up"
Although these settings were for the GRD do you suggest the same for contrast and saturation on the G1 as well if shooting at high ISO?
In post 124 of the same thread...
"Settings for GRD : 150 / 0.8 / 0"
What do these figures refer to within Photoshop?...what parameters?
Sorry for all the questions...I am new to PP and will check out some tutorials.
I know, I know, I don't need another camera but an E-P1 is crying out to me...buy me, hold me
...I find it's retro style very appealing and the images from it posted on this forum by yourself and others have convinced me what is under it's hood is very good.One other thing...your shooting technique...I notice a lot of your people pictures subjects aren't posed and a lot of them aren't aware they're being snapped...do you prefocus and shoot at waist level with a small aperture for max DOF?
Sorry for all the questions but I love your style and find it inspirational. :thumbup:
John.
kweide
New member
John
i think it is not a good idea to port GRD settings 1:1 to other cams. I cannot talk about any setting regarding G1 simply because i dont have one !
But to answer: my style is different. I love to see details, i love to have sharp details and yes i love small DOF as well. You can see that in my flower pics in the thread. I believe it is better to do contrast-, saturation- and sharpness-settings better in Software and not automatically done by the cam. If the automatic fails the pic is ruined. That is a fact. You can recover to an extend but not in total. So it is better to keep the responsibility up to YOU, the photographer.
The JPG Engine of the E-P1 is fantastic. RAW not always needed only in some cricitcal light situations. So you can count on that. Saturation and contrast are, thats my taste, a bit too strong. I prefer a flat image to have enough room for PP. When you start leave all values "0". You will see that it is often better to dial -1 sharpness or -2 contrast. It depends on the situation and is always a combination of multiple factors. E.G. disableing NOISE reduction should be followed by -1 or -2 sharpness. Otherwise you may see some oversharpening in the picture. What i mean: Try different setting to find out what YOU LIKE.
What does this mean ?
Settings for GRD : 150 / 0.8 / 0. That values are for the Unsharp Mask in CS3. It is amount/radius/treshold. You will find it easily in CS3 or CS4 in the Menue.
On the street dont be trapped or get punished. ) and it is important to be able to take a shot within a second. Both facts leads the photographer to a planning session: "What do i want to snap today ?" The zoo ??? Go with the pocket cam and the kids.
The life in the streets ?? Oh, what distance to the objects ?? Light conditions ??? Weather ??? Flash ???
YES i preinstall my cam. I do prefocus to the main shooting distance and chosse an aperture which delivers sharpness up to infinity. Thats why i prefer wideangle lenses Apertue 8 and distance set to 3 Meters gives my a the DOF i want and need. Auto or high ( 800 or higher ) ISO and A-Priority are the clue. Prefocus means NO AF and gives you SPEEEEEED. Flash is never allowed in the street.
Shooting position is whatever you need to hide the cam: Waist, hip, behind crossed arms. But have the cam thight in you hand. When you got jostled in the crowed you will understand
The rest is practice, practice and practice. Try the open street first. Cam in your hand, well prepared, cam with the neckstrap around your HAND with the thumb on the trigger !
Try this:
View attachment 20763
Be creative. I remember when i shot with GRD i once had it around the neck. 100% visible to all but no hand ever touched the cam but i made 800 pics on the street. HOW ?? I programmed the internal GRD timer to do every some seconds one pic.....
So, thats it....
Have fun
i think it is not a good idea to port GRD settings 1:1 to other cams. I cannot talk about any setting regarding G1 simply because i dont have one !
But to answer: my style is different. I love to see details, i love to have sharp details and yes i love small DOF as well. You can see that in my flower pics in the thread. I believe it is better to do contrast-, saturation- and sharpness-settings better in Software and not automatically done by the cam. If the automatic fails the pic is ruined. That is a fact. You can recover to an extend but not in total. So it is better to keep the responsibility up to YOU, the photographer.
The JPG Engine of the E-P1 is fantastic. RAW not always needed only in some cricitcal light situations. So you can count on that. Saturation and contrast are, thats my taste, a bit too strong. I prefer a flat image to have enough room for PP. When you start leave all values "0". You will see that it is often better to dial -1 sharpness or -2 contrast. It depends on the situation and is always a combination of multiple factors. E.G. disableing NOISE reduction should be followed by -1 or -2 sharpness. Otherwise you may see some oversharpening in the picture. What i mean: Try different setting to find out what YOU LIKE.
What does this mean ?
Settings for GRD : 150 / 0.8 / 0. That values are for the Unsharp Mask in CS3. It is amount/radius/treshold. You will find it easily in CS3 or CS4 in the Menue.
On the street dont be trapped or get punished. ) and it is important to be able to take a shot within a second. Both facts leads the photographer to a planning session: "What do i want to snap today ?" The zoo ??? Go with the pocket cam and the kids.
The life in the streets ?? Oh, what distance to the objects ?? Light conditions ??? Weather ??? Flash ???
YES i preinstall my cam. I do prefocus to the main shooting distance and chosse an aperture which delivers sharpness up to infinity. Thats why i prefer wideangle lenses Apertue 8 and distance set to 3 Meters gives my a the DOF i want and need. Auto or high ( 800 or higher ) ISO and A-Priority are the clue. Prefocus means NO AF and gives you SPEEEEEED. Flash is never allowed in the street.
Shooting position is whatever you need to hide the cam: Waist, hip, behind crossed arms. But have the cam thight in you hand. When you got jostled in the crowed you will understand
The rest is practice, practice and practice. Try the open street first. Cam in your hand, well prepared, cam with the neckstrap around your HAND with the thumb on the trigger !
Try this:
View attachment 20763
Be creative. I remember when i shot with GRD i once had it around the neck. 100% visible to all but no hand ever touched the cam but i made 800 pics on the street. HOW ?? I programmed the internal GRD timer to do every some seconds one pic.....
So, thats it....
Have fun
Last edited:
J
JayCee
Guest
Many thanks for those tips Klaus...technical and technique. :thumbup:Shooting position is whatever you need to hide the cam: Waist, hip, behind crossed arms. But have the cam thight in you hand. When you got jostled in the crowed you will understand
The rest is practice, practice and practice. Try the open street first. Cam in your hand, well prepared, cam with the neckstrap around your HAND with the thumb on the trigger !
Be creative. I remember when i shot with GRD i once had it around the neck. 100% visible to all but no hand ever touched the cam but i made 800 pics on the street. HOW ?? I programmed the internal GRD timer to do every some seconds one pic.....
The type of pictures like yours in post 532 are what I like to view...it says so much and the mood would have been ruined if they were aware of your camera.
I remember when I first took up photography in the early eighties I was visiting the old area around "The Shambles" in the city of York with my first camera...an Olympus OM30...I was admiring the skills of a street performer playing a barrel organ and I raised my camera to eye level and was immediately aware of onlookers eyes on me and not the scene
When I got the prints back from the processors sure enough they revealed a good proportion of the crowd looking towards the camera instead of the street performer spoiling the image for me.
Your tips will come in handy when I get my new E-P1...I see you have the white version :thumbs:
John.
W
wblynch
Guest
In the context of the discussion on another thread - this is a good example of where a caption or a title on the image has a positive result for the viewer.
Kweide seems to be the master of this - but I don't want to stroke his ego - he could get complacent?
Keith
W
wblynch
Guest
Ah.... so you're telling us it's nothing more than a department store mannequin? And thus purposely out of focus...
Well played, Sir, well played !!
Well played, Sir, well played !!
".... Thus the need for better AF performance !!"
... well, i hope the performance is in the minds of the viewers.....
and will create a sharp imagination as well
Have fun... i have !
Klaus
J
JayCee
Guest
Klaus,
What do you use for editing RAW files from the E-P1?
Does Photoshop support it?
John
What do you use for editing RAW files from the E-P1?
Does Photoshop support it?
John