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EM1 4.0 Firmware Upgrade

Godfrey

Well-known member
M.ZUIKO DIGITAL 25mm F1.8 1.1 Nov. 26, 2015
M.ZUIKO DIGITAL 45mm F1.8 1.2 Nov. 26, 2015
M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 60mm F2.8 Macro 1.2 Nov. 26, 2015
M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 75mm F1.8 1.2 Nov. 26, 2015
Ah, thanks for that: I'll update my 75mm lens too.

G
 

Elderly

Well-known member
Updated my EM-1 and both my Pro lenses easily and successfully using Viewer 3.

Ages ago I made a list of all my settings ........... I can't find it :facesmack:.

BTW Don't forget to remove your SD card before starting the process.
 

Elderly

Well-known member
The on screen instructions told me to do so! and IIRC many years ago when I was trying unsuccessfully to initiate a firmware update on my EM-5, it was because I had not removed the SD card.
 

Annna T

Active member
I didn't do that. Why?

scott
I guess it is because some computers will automatically launch a dialogue box or even a program once they acknowledge that a media with pictures or files is connected. It could immediately launch LR for instance. Sony, to master the same issue just says : close the window if something pops up when you connect the camera. This is a Windows thing due to the fact that the USB connection has to be set to storage mode. Not sure about Mac behavior.
 

scott kirkpatrick

Well-known member
I guess it is because some computers will automatically launch a dialogue box or even a program once they acknowledge that a media with pictures or files is connected. It could immediately launch LR for instance. Sony, to master the same issue just says : close the window if something pops up when you connect the camera. This is a Windows thing due to the fact that the USB connection has to be set to storage mode. Not sure about Mac behavior.
The same happens to me. One, two or three dialog boxes have to be killed in my Mac, depending on what's open. I kill them, and then proceed with the upgrade.

scott
 

zensu

New member
Why? I don't see that anything changed on my SD card. All the existing exposures that were there still are...

G
Doh! I also forgot to remove SD card but it updated camera and lenses just fine and I still have all my images on the SD card? Maybe this isn't required anymore?
Bobby :facesmack:
 

Godfrey

Well-known member
I guess it is because some computers will automatically launch a dialogue box or even a program once they acknowledge that a media with pictures or files is connected. It could immediately launch LR for instance. Sony, to master the same issue just says : close the window if something pops up when you connect the camera. This is a Windows thing due to the fact that the USB connection has to be set to storage mode. Not sure about Mac behavior.
Good thought.
Photos launched on El Capitan, so I bet this is why they said to do that. I just killed Photos before proceeding with the update.

No harm done, it's all working fine. :)

G
 

Elderly

Well-known member
Well, how do you do focus stacking? You take a series of images with the camera focused at different distances. They could do it with the autofocus mechanism, which in the E-M1 can use the phase-sensitive detection. This mechanism has the advantage of knowing whether the focus has moved closer or further, while contrast detection uses an error signal that increases both ahead and behind of focus.

scott
Hmmmmm - How does the camera know along which 'plane of focus' it should create its series of eight images? It must have a pretty sophisticated algorithm to be reliable.
 

DaveS

Active member
To answer your question, here is a cut and paste from the firmware updated user manual:

regards,
Dave


Bracketing ([Focus BKT] added)
[Focus BKT] (focus bracketing) is added to bracketing (P.90).
Focus BKT
Take a series of shots at different focus positions. Focus
moves successively farther from the initial focus position.
Choose the number of shots using [Set number of shots],
the change in focus distance using [Set focus differential],
and the charging time for the external flash using [#Charge
Time]. Choose smaller values for [Set focus differential] to
narrow the change in focus distance, larger values to widen
it.
Press the shutter button all the way down and release
it immediately. Shooting will continue until the selected
number of shots is taken or until the shutter button is
pressed all the way down again.
• For flash shooting, set the shutter speed to 1/20 sec. or
slower.
• Focus bracketing is not available with lenses that have
mounts conforming to the Four-Thirds standard.
• Focus bracketing ends if zoom or focus is adjusted during
shooting.
• Shooting ends when focus reaches infinity.
 

Elderly

Well-known member
Thanks Dave but that extract is for Focus Bracketing and not for Focus Stacking.

My crude attempt at focus stacking last night obliquely shooting the spines of books on a shelf and starting with the focus in the centre of the row/frame, demonstrated that the focus moves both further from and closer to the camera, and is automatically limited to eight shots (not enough to get a perfect result in that particular situation).
It implies from the wording in your cut and paste for focus bracketing, that the focus moves successively FURTHER from the initial focus distance set; so to achieve the same result of having all the spines in focus using bracketing, the initial point of focus should be on the closest book and the focus point will move further away for each of the user chosen number of shots; I've not tried that.

But back to Stacking and my initial question which I'm having trouble putting into words:
I shot my row of book spines with a vertical 'film plane' so there was only one plane of focus to follow, but what if the camera was also pointing upwards or downwards as well as along the row, how would the camera know which of the two planes of focus it should choose (from top to bottom of the spines, or closest to furthest book)?

I also can't fathom out how the merging works (I can't fathom much out :cry:),
looking at each of the eight individual frames that make up the stack, very few appear to have any point in focus at all!!! :confused: :confused:
 

f6cvalkyrie

Well-known member
Thanks Dave but that extract is for Focus Bracketing and not for Focus Stacking.

My crude attempt at focus stacking last night obliquely shooting the spines of books on a shelf and starting with the focus in the centre of the row/frame, demonstrated that the focus moves both further from and closer to the camera, and is automatically limited to eight shots (not enough to get a perfect result in that particular situation).
It implies from the wording in your cut and paste for focus bracketing, that the focus moves successively FURTHER from the initial focus distance set; so to achieve the same result of having all the spines in focus using bracketing, the initial point of focus should be on the closest book and the focus point will move further away for each of the user chosen number of shots; I've not tried that.

But back to Stacking and my initial question which I'm having trouble putting into words:
I shot my row of book spines with a vertical 'film plane' so there was only one plane of focus to follow, but what if the camera was also pointing upwards or downwards as well as along the row, how would the camera know which of the two planes of focus it should choose (from top to bottom of the spines, or closest to furthest book)?

I also can't fathom out how the merging works (I can't fathom much out :cry:),
looking at each of the eight individual frames that make up the stack, very few appear to have any point in focus at all!!! :confused: :confused:
my first tests with focus stacking seem to indicate the same ... after the first shot, taken at the focus distance you choose, the next distances will be shorter (3x), and then longer ... so if you focus on the closest point, you basically have 3 useless shots in your series ...
My advice : focus in the middle, or a little closer, and choose the f-value and focus differential wisely ...

Olympus could have found a more intelligent way, it seems to me ! Like : choose closest focus, choose furthest focus, and let the camera calculate optimum focus differential and f-value ...

But, that's only my idea ...

CU,
Rafael
 

scott kirkpatrick

Well-known member
OK, here's my stab at seeing what focus bracketing/stacking will do for me and how it works:

The revised manual includes a few pages on new stuff in release 4.0. This is only part of it. Focus bracketing is one more kind of multishot bracketing. You can set it up and only use it when you set bracketing ON. When bracketing is OFF it will not interfere with normal shooting. I only tried stacking, which creates and combines 8 jpegs. The closest one is taken at the focus position you select (I used the touch screen, and touched the nearest object in the scene). The rest are taken at distances incremented by a number from 1 through 10. There is no explanation of whether this is object distance, amount of lens movement, or what. Only that 1 is small changes and 10 is big. Working with scenes that had a range of 2-3 meters, using the 12-50 at 12 or 14 mm focal length, "1" was plenty. I had my camera set for RAW only and after shooting, I found 8 ORFs, 8 JPEGs interspersed and the 9th JPEG (incrementing the frame number one more) was the combined result. You can look at JPEG #8 and see if anything was usefully in focus. If not, reduce the focus increment.

Here's one result:

PB281593 by scott kirkpatrick, on Flickr

click thru to see it on a larger scale. I uploaded the jpeg at 100%.
Was it worth the trouble? For comparison, here is the same scene shot in a single exposure at f/8, focused on the dry flowers in the middle:

PB281630 by scott kirkpatrick, on Flickr

scott
 

Elderly

Well-known member
Rafael starts with the focus in the middle or a little closer
and Scott starts at the closest point.

My take on the manual is that for Bracketing you should start at the closest point,
but for Stacking it is best to start around the middle.
 

scott kirkpatrick

Well-known member
The manual has a page on bracketing (up to 99 shots, put them together yourself afterwards, extending out from the closest object with an interval that you set ranging from 1 to 10). Followed by a page on stacking, where it puts 8 jpegs together. It only says "automatically changing the focus point slightly for each frame and merged to create an image that is focused on broad range from near to far field." This doesn't say the ordering of the images or whether or not the scale that you set for bracketing is used to space the stacked shots. The bracketing scale does influence the range over which the camera varies focus in doing stacking -- I could see that in the experiments that I did for the previous post. But...

You have to look at the 8 shots that end up on the chip to see what it is actually doing. So this time, I shot a tape measure, extended for a meter or so, and used 80mm focal length, @f/2.8. It seems to do the following. The first shot is at the point of focus. Then two shots are taken nearer to the camera and then five more further away. When the distance increment is 1 and I focused about a meter away, the regions in focus at f/2.8 and 80 mm overlapped. When the distance increment was set to 3 they didn't quite overlap. So I conclude that for stacking you should focus about 1/3 into the region of interest, and set the distance scale to match the lens focal length and f/stop to be used, by experimenting.

scott
 
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