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Oh yeah...the hood induced vignetteBill, all four of these lenses have set screws on the chrome plated rear part of the lens.
How close does the Switar come to covering the sensor? I assume moreso without the hood, than with it.
I forgot about that. So, yes the Switar does cover the sensor wide open. I just quickly looked and stopped down a bit and you see vignette.I do see set screws but they are very tiny and I don't have that size.
shot RAW, with very little cropping. 35mm was already a little tight for the occasion.
I didn't see much corner unsharpness with my M-mounts. Tested them wide open & stopped down on a tripod.
Perhaps others have a mis-aligned adaptor causing corner problems ?
Dear all;
This is my go at cine lenses, Hawk adapter and Kodak 25mm 1.4 cine ektar:
The whole set is here:
http://www.jonesii.net/2009%2003%2006%20Flowers/index.html
The lens does have a cmount adapter, so It looks like it could be rotated.
I have not noticed in the thread where any cosmicar examples have been posted. The lenses seem readily available from B&H, at reasonable price, any one know how many blades they have?
Dave
This is my go at cine lenses, Hawk adapter and Kodak 25mm 1.4 cine ektar:
The whole set is here:
http://www.jonesii.net/2009%2003%2006%20Flowers/index.html
The lens does have a cmount adapter, so It looks like it could be rotated.
I have not noticed in the thread where any cosmicar examples have been posted. The lenses seem readily available from B&H, at reasonable price, any one know how many blades they have?
Dave
M
mingpop
Guest
Hi,
I use G1. I would like to know how to set the camera for MF lens because I can not get the sharp image.
Thanks.
I use G1. I would like to know how to set the camera for MF lens because I can not get the sharp image.
Thanks.
M
mingpop
Guest
Do you use tripod or not?
Dear MingPop ...
All my shots are hand held. The key is a fast lens, and good focusing technique. Make sure that you have your aperture set to above 2.8, if there is not enough light to get the shutter speed over 1/100, raise the ISO, 1/150 is better.
Make sure the zoom in, that is by using the left arrow, then the middle button.
If you have not adjusted your diopter setting, then you will have some problems focusing. It is best to adjust the diopter while using an autofocus lens.
Hope that this helps.
Dave
All my shots are hand held. The key is a fast lens, and good focusing technique. Make sure that you have your aperture set to above 2.8, if there is not enough light to get the shutter speed over 1/100, raise the ISO, 1/150 is better.
Make sure the zoom in, that is by using the left arrow, then the middle button.
If you have not adjusted your diopter setting, then you will have some problems focusing. It is best to adjust the diopter while using an autofocus lens.
Hope that this helps.
Dave
Depends on the aperture, from about f4 on, there is little to no probelm, from there down, strong corner blackout.
Dave
M
mingpop
Guest
Dear djonesii,
Very thanks I will try and if I have some problems I will ask you again too. That's very kind of you.
Very thanks I will try and if I have some problems I will ask you again too. That's very kind of you.
M
mingpop
Guest
Dear djonesii,
I use FD to m4/3 adapter from jinfinance (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=110341536053) and canon 55mm f1.2 SSC FD lens but the images are soft and unsharp rim. I try that you suggest me, but it's still accur. Tell me more please. Thanks you very much.
I use FD to m4/3 adapter from jinfinance (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=110341536053) and canon 55mm f1.2 SSC FD lens but the images are soft and unsharp rim. I try that you suggest me, but it's still accur. Tell me more please. Thanks you very much.
Maybe you can post an image that is not sharp and tell us what you have done trying to get it sharp? Then it would be easier to understand the problem.
If you use the kit lens with the camera set to manual focusing - can you get a sharp image then?
Dear MingPop;
I have a nikon 55 1.2, manual focus lens, I use it on my D300 all the time, and from apertures of 4-16 or so, it is razor sharp, I would expect the same of the canon. From 2.8-2.0, the lens is very sharp, from 1.4-1.2, its pretty good. Posting an image would really help.
When dealing with 1.4-1.2, you really have a very shallow DOF, that is, a persons nose can be sharp, and the eyes out of focus, this is not poor technique, but a quality of the optics. On the other hand, Shooting at f8, the whole body should be easy to get in focus.
In order for us to help, as someone has suggested, post a photo, but we will also need to know your focus point, F stop and shutter speed.
As some also asked, it's really important to make sure that you get nice sharp images when using the kit lens in AF, if so, we can most likely eliminate equipment problems on the camera side.
if you can focus sharp MF with the kit lens, then this points to the adapter or lens. If you kit lens images are not sharp in MF mode, then it points to technique.
Dave
I have a nikon 55 1.2, manual focus lens, I use it on my D300 all the time, and from apertures of 4-16 or so, it is razor sharp, I would expect the same of the canon. From 2.8-2.0, the lens is very sharp, from 1.4-1.2, its pretty good. Posting an image would really help.
When dealing with 1.4-1.2, you really have a very shallow DOF, that is, a persons nose can be sharp, and the eyes out of focus, this is not poor technique, but a quality of the optics. On the other hand, Shooting at f8, the whole body should be easy to get in focus.
In order for us to help, as someone has suggested, post a photo, but we will also need to know your focus point, F stop and shutter speed.
As some also asked, it's really important to make sure that you get nice sharp images when using the kit lens in AF, if so, we can most likely eliminate equipment problems on the camera side.
if you can focus sharp MF with the kit lens, then this points to the adapter or lens. If you kit lens images are not sharp in MF mode, then it points to technique.
Dave
B
butterdada
Guest
Thanks.
Yes, all photos were converted by Silkypix.
The G1 on hawk's post is mine.
so my G1 still stays with Hawk.
I have no new photos to post.
Nikon Cine-Nikkor 25mm F1.4 wide open
It's a C-mount lens. Very good.
B
butterdada
Guest
Kern Switar 50mm F1.8 for Alpa , modified to Leica M mount by MS Optics, Japan
Can rangfind in M mount camera
Still very good performance on G1
Can rangfind in M mount camera
Still very good performance on G1
Last edited:
B
butterdada
Guest
Carl Zeiss Jenna DDR Tevidon 35mm F1.9
A c-mount lens.
No vignetting.
But cannot infinity. --> Hawk can resolve this problem.
Before modify:
A c-mount lens.
No vignetting.
But cannot infinity. --> Hawk can resolve this problem.
Before modify:
B
butterdada
Guest
Bausch & Lomb 26mm F1.9
A c-mount lens
soft when wide open.
No vignetting.
Infinity ok.
A c-mount lens
soft when wide open.
No vignetting.
Infinity ok.
B
butterdada
Guest
Kern Switar 75mm F1.9 all wide open
A c-mount lens
Very sharp when wide open.
No vignetting.
Infinity ok.
A c-mount lens
Very sharp when wide open.
No vignetting.
Infinity ok.
Hi butterdada,
The UC Hexanon... how do you use it on the G1? A homemade adapter or did you modify the lens? I understand it as this UC lens has floating elements and wonder there is any special attention needed when modifying it.
What is your general impression of the lens (not thinking of wide open close-ups only)?
kindest, /Jonas
B
butterdada
Guest
I modify it by myself. Very easy.
This perforamnce UC 28/1.8 is perfect!!!!!
Can 1:1 macro. Can focus less than 15cm.