G1 and IR

[Diane B]

I don't know why I always decide to play with IR on a rainy day--worst situation LOL, but I was checking filters, stepdown and up rings, etc. and came across my Hoya R72, had a stepdown ring so thought I would try it. I think I tried it this Winter, but couldn't remember.

Shoots the way I've generally always shot IR (though I do have a dedicated IR Canon body, but rarely use it)--compose, focus, set it then to MF, put filter on, half press, then used timer.

I processed as regular IR

and then used an interesting action for false color I have from Kromagery. Its quite flexible with 4 layers--and I process beyond that in PS.

Ah, settings 14-45 lens, f/4.0, 6 sec. ISO 640

Diane

 

[Brian Mosley]

Charming image Diane, love it!

Thanks for sharing

Brian

 

[woodmancy]

I don't know why I always decide to play with IR on a rainy day--worst situation LOL, but I was checking filters, stepdown and up rings, etc. and came across my Hoya R72, had a stepdown ring so thought I would try it. I think I tried it this Winter, but couldn't remember.

Shoots the way I've generally always shot IR (though I do have a dedicated IR Canon body, but rarely use it)--compose, focus, set it then to MF, put filter on, half press, then used timer.

I processed as regular IR
and then used an interesting action for false color I have from Kromagery. Its quite flexible with 4 layers--and I process beyond that in PS.
Ah, settings 14-45 lens, f/4.0, 6 sec. ISO 640

Diane

I love both images. I have never tried IR - so, I get a filter that lets only IR through, and then give enough exposure to get a picture? Is there enough signal to get an image on the LCD?

Keith

 

[Diane B]

I love both images. I have never tried IR - so, I get a filter that lets only IR through, and then give enough exposure to get a picture? Is there enough signal to get an image on the LCD?

Keith

Keith, you will need to focus and compose before you put the filter on--longish shutter times. The Hoya R72 is usually a good IR filter for most cameras.

Diane

 

[Vivek]

I love both images. I have never tried IR - so, I get a filter that lets only IR through, and then give enough exposure to get a picture? Is there enough signal to get an image on the LCD?

Keith

Keith, There is not enough signal to get an image on the TFT screen that is useful (for focusing) with a Hoya R72 filter because there is not enough IR response in a G1. Hoya R72 has 50% transmission at 720nm. It bleeds heavy red and deep red. This is what the G1 is capable of recording as it has no IR response.

With a stronger filter like Heliopan RG780 (50% transmission at 780nm) the signal plummets even further.

In comparison, if you were to remove the filter stack on the NMOS sensor in G1 (or any Olympus/Panasonic camera), the IR response (RG780 filter) is 2 to 3 stops more relative to that of visible light exposure.

 

[woodmancy]

Keith, you will need to focus and compose before you put the filter on--longish shutter times. The Hoya R72 is usually a good IR filter for most cameras.

Diane

I think I will try it - does the cameras auto exposure work, or is it a case of trial and error?

Keith

 

[helenhill]

Diane / There BOTH Quite lovely....Beautiful
best- H

 

[f6cvalkyrie]

Excellent pictures, Diane, and a good inspiration for future work.
I'v never done IR photography before, but will be looking for the Hoya 720 nm filter in our shops !

C U
Rafael

 

[Robert Campbell]

The brightness of the LCD on OLY DSLRs can be boosted, so that in live view it's possible to use an R72 and still use the LCD to compose and focus -- works quite well. I don't know if this can also be done on the G1.

 

[Diane B]

I could very slightly discern something in the EVF, but certainly not enough to compose and focus. It was pretty dreary--def. not an optimal day for IR shooting LOL, but its so easy to compose, focus before putting on the filter that its not really worth worrying about. You won't be able to handhold anyhow, so this will be on tripod or support.

Rafael, the Hoya R72 for the G1 is not too expensive. I own 2 filters and step rings for various lenses (for 2 camera systems) which keeps the cost way down. I had an old Canon 10D converted to IR and it does a great job (easy to shoot IR handheld with normal shutter times)--but carrying one more body, I have found, is a royal pain, so its rarely used. Easier to carry a filter. In bright sun the shutter time amd ISOs should go down considerably.

I haven't checked lenses in strong sunlight--but with the Canon, there are certain lenses that have a large burned area in the center of the image--there is a list of the offending lenses that most Canon IR shooters are aware of.

Diane

 

[f6cvalkyrie]

Hi Diane !

I searched for your false-colour thing from Kromagery, unsuccessfully

Could you say something more about it ? Is it a software, a plugin ? Or a website that does on-line conversions ?

Also, when shooting in IR, which openings can you use ? Is there any problem with back-focusing ?

C U
Rafael

 

[Diane B]

Ah, Kromagery did do IR conversions and offered the action on their site. I'll see if I can find it for you--they are in Australia.

Here it is--the 'download' will give you the action to be installed in PS. http://khromagery.com.au/resources.html

To use it, even if you shoot RAW, be sure and open the 'red' version (your IR image will be red to burgundy) in PS and use the action--you can adjust with any of the adjustment layers it produces. I'll go back and try it to tell how I used it for the false color. If I'm working with RAW and want a mono, I'll do most of the work in LR where I made a preset for a starter.

For shooting IR using a filter, its best to use a tripod or support (because of shutter time--with my converted 10D I can handhold--AND compose and focus with the VF). I focused with AF and then switched to manual focus to maintain it (you could just manual focus to begin with). Then--screw on the filter--you will not be able to see much in the LCD/EVF at this point--usually just a hint of dark red light. BTW--IR is best done (for the greens to be white, etc.) in bright sunlight for landscapes--though some like IR for portraits, weddings, etc. Because of the longer shutter times, a still day works well--unless you like the 'shimmer' of foliage moving which can be interesting too--depends upon your intent.

After I added the filter, I used the timer since I haven't gotten around to buying a remote. I just choose an aperture and ISO depending upon the day--the brighter the day, the more stopped down, the lower the ISO.

I didn't have any trouble, it appeared, with backfocusing on the G1. I haven't done enough to say for sure, but I don't think it will be an issue. I'm going to shoot some more if our rain ever stops--its been days LOL

IR is a fun thing--a number of years ago on the Canon SLR forum there were long threads about IR and false color IR but it doesn't seem to be very popular right now.

IF I can add anything helpful, I'll be glad to do so.

Best, Diane

 

[f6cvalkyrie]

Thanks for your extensive information, Diane !

In the mean time, I have a 720 nm IR filter on the road (in the air) from China to Belgium.

I also checked the website you mentionned, but it is a kind of Photoshop plugin, isn't it ? I have PaintShop Pro, not photoshop, so it probably won't work. Have to check when I get the filter.

Also, I saw that my Nikon lenses (except the Micro-Nikkor) have IR focusing dots to compensate for backfocusing.

Anyway, my first interest will be B&W IR conversions !

C U
Rafael

 

[Diane B]

No, its not a plugin, but it is an 'action' for Photoshop--I don't think it will work in PSP though. I don't think PSP can use PS actions--they are very specifically adjustment layers in PS----but--there are other relatively easy ways to do false color IR. I'll try to find the links--and then you can adapt to your PSP tools.

If your lenses have the focusing dots for IR, use them. My 24-70L EF mount has them, but none of my old FDs--but usually focus isn't the issue with IR. Many want that 'glow' also--so a darker filter than the Hoya will give that--but is hard to deal with in other ways. Some are good for some cameras/lens, some not. The Hoya is a generally good one for almost all combos.

My preference is mono IR also. Just remember that what you will get will be a red/orange/burgundy file that has to be processed to b & w.

Diane

 

[scho]

I also picked a bad day (windy) to start playing with IR again, but when you get the itch it has to be scratched I tried my little 25mm f/4p Skopar that I used a lot on my M8 for IR. I could easily shoot hand held with the M8, but the G1 really needs a tripod. This shot was just a test in A mode at f/10 13sec with the B+W 092 filter. Used focus assist with the LCD to compose and focus wide open (f/4) and then stopped down for the shot. I'll do some more serious stuff tomorrow after the weather clears up.

 

[scho]

Couple more with the 25mm Skopar and B+W 092 filter. 13 sec and 25 sec respectively at f/11. Still too windy.

 

[Diane B]

Very nice Carl, but obviously windy--just look at those clouds in #2 LOL. Look forward to seeing more.I need to get my filter back on the G1 or get out my 10D converted to IR (which I can shoot handheld with all lenses). I keep the IR filter in my folder and should have had it yesterday--the skies were beautiful.

Diane

 

[pellicle]

Hi Di

I don't know why I always decide to play with IR on a rainy day--worst situation LOL,

well ... not really, just not stereotypical ;-)

I gave IR a go on my G1 and wasn't really that impressed. I still have a few bricks of the last batch of HIE that Kodak made in my freezer back in Australia so I haven't felt the need to get an SLR converted .... yet

I would ask why you have an IR converted camera and don't use it much?

meantime I've been wanting to convert a camera like a Nikon 990 such as Dave Burren used to act as a meter for me.

I've a feeling that the G1 will act as as an excellent IR camera (assuming no lens problems with hot spots) as the contrast detect IR should give you perfectly fine AutoFocus. I found with my Nikon that I get perfect AF operation when using a Wratten 87 on it.

I am thinking quite seriously of getting a conversion on the G1 and placing a removable IR filter behind the lens to enable dual purpose use. This company has an interesting system.

should keep some dust off the sensor too ;-)

 

[pellicle]

Hi

thought I'd give this a fang with the unmodified G1. I tried it with the kit lens and didn't like what the image looked like (plus it wouldn't AF).

using a c mount I got this:


with the following processing method:

taken with the Computar C-Mount f1.3 12mm lens on the G1 and a Hoya R73 IR filter. Processing is using dcraw on the image and extracting R and G layers (discarding B) and then blending them to get a combination of hilight detail from the Green layer and shadow from the Red

with this unlikely candidate right out of the camera

 

[Vivek]

I am going to surgically remove the AA/IR cut filter in one of my G1s. The camera has no useful UV or IR sensitivity as is. I have done this (surgery) on an E-410 and it is superb (for UV and IR). The NMOS sensor is more sensitive than the CCD sensors I was used to.

Hutec's filter application for Canon DSLRs is neat but I am afraid there is no room for such a possibility with the G1.

Doing IR with f/0.95 on the G1 would be fun.