Just this guy you know
Part of my issue was self induced. I went into the menu to see what was available and turned it all on not realizing the impact of doing so. The impact is that each option creates another info page. I've now gone in an turned most of it off. So, I'm left with the level, histogram, shooting info, green box page. The green box page is showing me the basic info (aperture, shutter, exposure comp). I can work this way. Once you zoom in, no shooting info. I'm now now much more conscious of where I am (screen wise).
Terry and Godfrey,
I've done the same thing. I've turned off the Live View "info modes" that I don't use, and only have these activated: main view with all the shooting info (you can't turn this one off), level (with level sensor turned on), and green box.
With just those three modes, I can cycle through them very quickly. Green box is my standard, and only go to the others when I need them.
I don't typically use the histogram when composing and shooting. I use it "after the fact" (when reviewing the image) to see if I need to adjust EV and re-shoot. I typically make an adjustment once (i.e. EV +0.3 when at the beach) for a situation, after taking a couple of test shots, and then don't touch EV again until I go into a different lighted situation.
Sony A99, RX1, RX100
Have to say liking this camera more and more as i see images posted. Don't stop
I work like Mike i look at the Histo after i shoot and make adjustments. Rather have a clear screen when shooting. Nice to have features but get them out of my way when I shoot. Tell me later after I have it in the can is my thinking.
I check with Review and the histogram after the shot only in really difficult lighting situations.
Just differences in working habits. I've become very accustomed to having the live histogram accessible, after my Sony 717 experience, and it is one of the reasons the L1 and G1 were so appealing to me. Chimping ... using review after the fact ... tends to distract me and poses a hitch in my shooting when I'm in the groove. ;-)
OK, after a few days of use, here are some "wishlist" items that I have for the E-P1 to make it even better...
Make the "green square" mode (one of the live-view modes when you cycle through the info button) available as an overlay onto any of the other modes. In other words, make the green square (ability to magnify the center to assist in manual focusing) a toggle, rather than a separate mode.
Provide an easy way to turn off the LCD when in shooting mode. This would be especially useful when using an external view finder. No need to have the LCD displaying the preview image, wasting battery and potentially drawing unwanted attention, when your looking through the viewfinder.
Have a couple of "memorized settings" positions on the top dial. For example, "Custom 1", and "Custom 2". So that I could set up the camera with a particular combination of settings, and then easily choose that set by turning the top dial. The current "preset" functionality is too burried, and non intuitive to use.
Have the "wheel" (around the "OK" button) be used to quickly fast forward through the stored images when in playback mode (similar to the M8).
Have a "my menu settings" page within the menu, where you could store your most frequently accessed menu settings at the top menu level, without having to dig through all the menu pages to find them. The latest Canon bodies (Digit IV) have this capability.
Use the latest "top of the line" high res LCDs that Canon and Nikon are using. They are brighter and nicer to view. The E-P1 LCD is still too easily washed out in bright light, even when set to the brightest setting.
An optional thicker grip would be nice. I would like the grip to be just a tad beefier, for better one-handed use.
Some of those "wish list" items could be done in firmware. Others would be targeted for the next-gen body.
Overall, I'm very happy with the E-P1, despite these "areas for improvement", and am quite pleased to have this as my new main compliment to my 5D II system. I definitely prefer the E-P1 over the G1 - the ergonics and overall system are more to my style of shooting, and feel very good in the hand. The G1 always felt too much like a "super zoom digicam" to me, while the E-P1 feels like a little brother to the M8.
Eventually, we need a solution to the view finder problem. Perhaps and optional electronic VF that could be plugged into the hotshoe? Then it could be removed for times when space is more important, or when you want to use and optical VF (instead of an electronic VF).
Sony A99, RX1, RX100
Simply remove your E-P 1 body from your lens, snap on this handy accessory in its place, and like magic you have:
1) Turn-off-able LCD (just fold it in.)
2) Savable settings ("Film 1" and "Film 2".)
3) Thicker handgrip built right in.
4) High-performance eye-level electronic viewfinder built right in.
Seriously, the trouble with grafting features such as a handgrip and EVF onto E-P 1 -- or adding enough structure and connectors to make them "optional" -- is that you'd wind up with a camera that feels like a "super zoom digicam" precisely because it does have those features.
What everybody seems to love about the E-P 1 is its svelteness. Start trying to pack on too many more physical features and you wind up with a very nice camera, but one Panasonic already makes!
just another questiion, the kitlens 14-42 comes without a lens hood, which one to buy?
Does one exist ???
The custom settings on the dials would be huge. The current implementation doesn't seem useable.
The green square on all screens would need a tweak because if you hit OK it would go to the zoomed view. I was in green square mode yesterday and when I wanted to change settings I had to hit info to get to another screen first and then hit OK. If the green box were on every screen needs a different single button push.
Yes, a higher resolution screen would be nice but whatever they used to get that viewing angle I wouldn't want to lose. Funny my A900 has a high res screen and in bright sun I still have problems.
The wheel for reviewing images is where I keep natural going (and accidentally change the sound volume). I like that idea
My biggest change for BOTH the E-P1 and the G1 would be for low light early AM shooting. With CDAF when there isn't enough light camera can't focus. With all current m4/3 lenses there are no focus scales to allow you to manually focus/zone focus/hyperfocal focus when the screen is essentially black. Assuming they aren't going to change the lenses, an on LCD focus scale could/should be implemented. Otherwise, I need to use a legacy lens of some sort.
"Perfection is not attainable. But if we chase perfection, we can catch excellence."
However, there's a question as to whether or not absolute distance is available anywhere with these lenses. Given the way CDAF works, the lenses jiggle back and forth through infinity (and every other point in their range) to obtain accurate focus ... whether an actual infinity point is calibrated in the camera is hard to say.
I've hunted through the EXIF data output from the G1 and not found anything stored as to focusing distance, or that changes when focusing distance changes. I know E-system SLRs do have distance embedded in the ORFs somewhere, but I'm not sure about the E-P1.
Just took a look at a couple of JPEGs and ORFs from Terry's camera (which had my Olympus ZD 25mm f/2.8 lens on it at the time) with EXIFtool and found that Olympus does embed a FocusDistance tag and value in the EXIF data, so at least with Olympus lenses there is distance information passed to the body and stored in EXIF data. That says a readout is possible at least. ;-)
Same lens on the G1 ... no FocusDistance information. :-( Whether it is indeed available but just isn't stored anywhere is a question mark.
Both the LX3 and Sigma's DP1 and DP2 can show the focus scale on the screen and all are CDAF, so it should be doable in some way.
For those of you that like putting different lenses on m4/3s cameras you might find this set interesting: http://www.flickr.com/photos/yoshino...7619142449147/
He's got some up with the E-P1 now. I've love to meet him sometime since he seems to hang out near where I live.
Charles - flickr
I know this has been covered somewhat, but I'd like to ask the EP1 users here, what's it like to use the EP1 with ONLY Leica lenses, say the 21 or 28 or 35 or even a 50? Is focusing easy or just possible? How does your shooting speed compare to using an M8? Is it usable for candid portraits? How do you like the files comparatively? Thanks!
Olympus even made two "protection" filters for the two lenses they released but no hoods!
If possible can some of you who have had the E-P1 for a while or are used to Olympus share some of your settings, such as picture setting (Vivid etc) Noise, Satuation, Sharpness and Graduation. This is my first Olympus camera I normally use Nikon, I have now had the E-P1 for 2 days but it has not stopped raining yet so only got to play indoors with it so far.
The menu system is extensive and getting a head start on some of the settings would really sppeed the learning process up.
Thanks for your help
I've been wondering about this camera as an M8 replacement. The m8 is great, but I didn't buy it because I wanted a rangefinder, I bought it because I wanted to use Leica glass. I actually find the rangefinder hard to use at times and I miss focus not a little bit of the time unless I really concentrate (I wear eye glasses). I can't even bring up this subject over at the LUF... they'll think I'm a heretic.
But what do the open minded people here think about this camera? Is the quality of the final picture up to snuff when compared with the m8 (I'll be using the same Leica lenses of course!)
and I don't suppose anyone has any direct comparison pics, same subject, same lens... ?
I've been using my E-P1 for 5 days now, and almost exclusively with M lenses. The main lenses I've used are the ZM 21, 28 Cron, 50 Lux (pre-asph), and 75 Summarit.
I'm having issues with corner softness when using the ZM 21 and 28 cron. The center is sharp, but the corners are soft. I'm not sure what is causing this - these same lenses are sharp to the corners on my M8, which has a larger sensor. I have two possible theories - it may be the adapter (but usually a faulty adapter would show one side of the frame as soft while the other side is sharp), or it may be the lens correction algorithms in processing engine within the camera, trying to correct for aberations which are not there (Olympus has lens correction algorithms built in for mFT lenses). Unfortunately, the softness shows up in both jpgs and raw files. I have another adapter on the way, and will retest with the new adapter to see if I can eliminate that as a possible cause.
So with the wide angles (ZM 21 and 28 cron), I'm using them more for portrait shots or shots where only the center needs to be in focus.
The 50 lux and 75 summarit are working wonderfully. They produce very sharp images across the frame, just as you would expect on an M8. I've compared these images to the Panny 45-200 zoom, and the Leica lenses produce noticably superior images at f5.6.
My favorite way to shoot now is with the 50 lux wide open. I've gotten to the point where I can focus faster at f1.4 on the LCD than I ever could with the range finder (M8). There are a couple of advantages to LCD focusing. The main one is that your entire LCD acts like a ground-glass focusing screen. With the range finder, you can only focus on what is in the middle of the screen. With the LCD, you can focus on any subject on any part of the screen. This is especially handy when you have a moving subject that is off-center in your compositin.
The images produced by the 50 lux shot wide open are quite nice. I have not done a detailed side-by-side comparison to M8 files, but I'm a stickler for image quality, and have been pleasantly surprised by how nice these files are. At f1.4, I get the traditional "Leica rendering" - a soft glow and buttery smooth transitions. Stopped down to about f2.8, and everything is razor sharp.
The 50 lux is a great match for the E-P1. It balances and handles very well on the camera. It's become my default lens, staying attached to my camera almost constantly now.
I need to figure out the soft-corner issues I'm getting with the wide angles, and then I'll be all set with this camera as a replacement for my M8. In the meantime, I've ordered a Voigtlander 40/1.4, to see how that works as well, and will report next week when I've tried it.
Hope that helps,
Last edited by Mike Hatam; 8th July 2009 at 07:02.
Sony A99, RX1, RX100
Mike, the corner softness is a well-publicized issue, as seen in previous months using the G1. It's a matter of the oblique angles of light hitting the sensor, produced by the rangefinder wide angles. The M8 corrects for this with their sensor.
The soft corners on wide angle lenses is also a widely documented problem with the G1 (LUF, here and other sites) and was noted in Sean Reid's review of the G1. It isn't clear if it is software correction for m4/3, if the micro lenses in the M8 do more than gather light or what the final answer is. 50's have all been just fine on both cameras.
Also, thank you for your comments on how fast you can focus the 50 lux on the LCD. I said that in a couple of places and people (mostly LUF) sort of laughed. I am much more accurate at 1.4 with both the G1 and EP-1 than I ever was on the M8.
It should also be noted that not every wide angle has an issue. Many people use the 15/4.5 Voigtlander, the 28/1.9, and various 35mm wides with no corner issues on the micro 4/3s.
Terry, I agree, for accuracy, nothing beats focusing directly at the sensor. Of course, the LUFfites will always disagree.
Thanks Robert and Terry. I wasn't aware that this was already a known issue.
It's too bad, because that kills one of the primary values of the E-P1 - as a possible replacement for the M8.
Have you heard if the Voigtlander 12mm has the issue?
Sony A99, RX1, RX100
"I am much more accurate at 1.4 with both the G1 and EP-1 than I ever was on the M8."
I have the 12 and I put in on the camera last night but I was in bad light so I couldn't get good shots that would be usable for a test. I will try and do that tonight and you can have the RAW files to work with.
That being said, if yo need to go out and buy a new 12mm lens, I think the 7-14 is more versatile, faster (by one stop) and produces good results. I can take the same shots with both lenses for you.
So I guess the CV 12 is not really a necessity.
I sure hope that Panny and Oly roll out some more fast primes. Something in the 10-12mm range, with an f2 - f2.8 speed would be nice. An f1.2 portrait lens would also be nice, but at least we can use the Leica / CV lenses at those focal lengths.
Sony A99, RX1, RX100
Mike have a look at these pictures, it really isn't much different in size than the kit lens extended.
That's not too bad. Is the petal hood built-in, or can it be removed? (I hate lens hoods)
Sony A99, RX1, RX100
Does anyone know when/if Olympus will have lens hoods for the 2 E-P1 lens? And, how much is the leather case and strap? thanks -Durr
Mike the hood is attached and you really do want it attached to protect the front element that sticks out like the Nikon 14-24 or Sigma 12-24 lenses .
Specifics of lens design do matter. ;-)
IIRC, the M8 sensor uses a combination of differential photosite lenses and special software to deal with the angle of incidence problem. The G1 and FourThirds lenses are designed for a digital sensor so have less of that problem than others, and the G1/GH1/E-P1 include more lens correction processing injected into the RAW conversion process (by the lens) to assist there too.
I'm using the Cosmicar 12.5mm lens, which was designed for a 1" standard television camera. It covers the G1 sensor as a central square (almost!) or as cropped to 16:9 format (almost!). Since it was designed for a sensor, it shows good sharpness right to the edges of its coverage without smearing or artifacts. (Like any ultra-fast lens, it performs best stopped down a little bit, and the weirdness of my adaptation is that I have the lens focused at the infinity point for 4' distance so I have to stop it down to cover sharp focus at distance anyway.)
Thanks, Mike. That was a big help. I don't think the EP1 is a worthy substitute for the M8 quite yet. I do think they'll get there some day. Watch out, Leica.
One more point - if your vision isn't 20/20 there's another issue. If you're farsighted (you need reading glasses) then focusing through an M8 viewfinder is a piece of cake since your focus is distant. If you're using an LCD up close (arm's length or less) then you probably need your reading glasses to focus the camera. Switch this if you're nearsighted (need glasses for driving). I used to be nearsighted but got LASIK eye surgery a few years ago and love the fact that I don't have to wear glasses when using cameras with viewfinders (M8 and SLRs). When I use point-and-shoot cameras I rely on autofocus since I typically don't carry my reading glasses.
Good point on reading glasses. Focusing the Pana G1 thru the EVF is infinity. Not so with the LCD, of course.
Thanks for the info.
I loved my Leica Ms ... all of them ... but I find that for my eyes, the EVF/LCD of the G1 simply performs better. The biggest issue when using the G1's LCD regards getting critical focus is holding the camera steadily, particularly when using longer focal lengths (50mm and up). The E-P1 is less of an issue in this regard due to the in-body image stabilization.
Hey folks just got this from B&H for you to look at . Although most of this info maybe right here on GetDPI as it should . LOL
Check it out though , maybe some tidbit you folks missed, although I seriously doubt it.
Yehh... The Noctilux can be used on the M8, with a viewfinder magnifier @ $325±, and a diopter correction @ $95±... which wouLd be a plus*, but this arrangement dims the viewfinder by several stops and negates it's value when used in low light conditions... oh weLL. For a coupLe hundred dollars more you can buy a G1 camera to focus the Noctilux
* remember to screw it on before use...
Does the E pEE 1 come with a complementary pair of reading gLasses along with matching knee pads...?
Last edited by Y.B.Hudson III; 8th July 2009 at 11:05.