Wow what a nice shot....the E-P1 has stayed longer that the E620 perhaps it's a keeper
Wow what a nice shot....the E-P1 has stayed longer that the E620 perhaps it's a keeper
I agree, very dramatic, contrasty photo.
Any chance we can see a video shot with that Summilux, mike? Terry? Or a side by side comparison with the m8?
I also have a question about aperture... does the e-p1 automatically correct for the lighting when you are setting up a shot? So what I mean is if you focus at 1.4 and then stop it down to 8.0, does the lcd get too dark to see or does it automatically compensate for the reduced aperture?
The picture quality of the EP-1 is very very good.
Regarding the LCD... it "gains up" so that it will be bright when you stop down the lens. You'll see some obvious noise in the LCD image as it gains up, but at least you can use the LCD for focusing even when stopped down.
Sony A99, RX1, RX100
It's nice to see the Olympus getting so many positives. Of course, us G1 owners have been enjoying the 50 Lux and other great lenses on micro 4/3 since last fall.
I got to briefly handle an EP1 w/17mm lens. It was bigger and heavier than I thought - there is a lesson about expectations in there. I didn't get to shoot with it, but maybe will check another one out next week and take some snaps. I just picked up a K7 so I'm budget constrained unless I send that back. It seemed significantly larger than the DLux4 but is thinner than the K7. I do now understand why RF fans love it, and it does strike me as perhaps the best "street cam" out there. Not much bigger/heavier than DLux4 but much bigger sensor. Just what I need, another system...
One negative of the EP-1 is the shutter lag, otherwise, OK.
I also couldn't resist the E-P1. Here a shot I took with this combination:
Sharpness and colours are very good. If you want to see it yourself, here is the original size:
If u think that the stills have good IQ, wait until u try the video. It is quite an experience!! (I haven't done much video).
Used it yesterday with the 17mm. Really nice, and of course, really compact. That focal length seems really good for video.
On Thursday evening, the local dealer had a demo. I shot some HD video with the 4/3 fish eye. Wow, what fun. Had some initial concerns with the the AVI Motion JPEG format since the file didn't open at the dealer. However, I had no problem at home. File opened with Olympus Master 2 (a good example that camera manufacturers should stick to cameras), IMovie, and Quicktime (Mac).
The lack of finder for everything but the 17 mm might make me use the Pen mostly for video, and the G1 for stills.(??)
Is the picture a jpeg or RAW? If RAW what program did you use? When I bring in the picture and look at it full sized I am seeing a crosshatched or square pattern behind the statues at the top and at the bottom.
Is it just me? I don't think I have ever seen anything like it. The resolution looks great but unless the squares are really in the picture I don't understand what is happening here.
I looked the photo over again. Is it possible there is fine netting covering the carvings to keep birds etc. out? If so forgive me for the questions and add the comment that the resolution is really sharp. If this is not the issue I have a screen capture magnification I can attach.
Last edited by JMaher; 12th July 2009 at 06:38.
I see it as well. To the extent that it is only in the one area it seemed at first that it was some sort of protective mesh place there to protect the area perhaps from birds. The hard part to answer is where it stops and starts in some areas. I don't think it has anything to do with camera or processing
Last edited by Terry; 12th July 2009 at 06:51.
I can explain it. It is a very fine protection fence against the doves, clamped over the niches of the building. You can see it mainly over the shadow areas of the niches, i think the net has the same brightness as the bright parts of the statues.
I developped the image from RAW with the trial version of Olympus Studio 2, a very slow program, i don't want to use it when LR will be able to handle the E-P1 Raws.
Thank you to all for your interest.
Last edited by Friedel; 12th July 2009 at 06:54.
Couldn't resist anymore and took the plunge today! Totally smitten with this little camera. Image stabilizer works like a charm. Took kids to Disneyland (HK) today and brought the Oly 70-300mm, Pana 7-14mm and the c-mount Carl Zeiss Jena DDR Tevidon 1.4/25. All shots done in jpg with no or minor (curves) post-processing.
Didn't have time to read the manual, menu structure took some time to figure out. More photos at www.flickr.com/photos/dougyau .
Would buy another one in a heartbeat. Just one flaw, no swivel LCD like the G1. Just that one flaw.
I had the DLux4 and E-P1 out on the counter next to each other at the local dealer last week. With the standard zoom on the E-P1, it seemed marginally faster than the DLux4 in terms of shutter lag and certainly faster shot to shot. The E-P1 feels very similar to the G1 in this respect, which in turn feels very much on par to the L1 and E-1 DSLRs.
Our perception of lag and responsiveness is complex. The E-P1 does make a different and more complex shutter sound compared to these fixed lens/leaf shutter cameras. I wonder if that is confusing people's perceptions ... It is a large (by comparison) focal plane shutter which closes, opens and closes, then reopens for each exposure. The sound is inevitably rather different in timbre and duration.
There is also an inevitable slight lag in display refresh if you leave these cameras (G1 and E-P1) in Continuous drive mode. The reason is that C mode forces a short between-frame review for a fraction of a second to the EVF/LCD display buffer where S drive mode does not (if you have AutoReview turned off, of course).
Anyway, I'm thinking out loud. Yesterday I was shooting a bunch of photos with the G1 and L1 side by side, each fitted with a different focal length lens. I saw little to no practical difference in either shutter lag or shot to shot responsiveness, and I am quite certain that the DLux4/LX3 could not keep up with either given those cameras' lack of buffered write capability.
Imaging Resources has performance measures for the G1 and EP1 up:
Looks like, pre-focused, they're similar speed in terms of shutter lag but G1 focused faster without prefocus. Imaging Resources also noted that a lot of this is lens dependent:
"The Panasonic GH1 was about 3-4 times faster at full autofocus. (The lens likely has a lot to do with that. Unlike the phase-detect AF systems used in SLRs, contrast-detect AF systems require refocusing the lens to determine optimal focus, so the focusing speed of the lens becomes a much larger factor in our measurements. We've heard that the E-P1 does much better when paired with the fast-focusing Panasonic 14-140mm HD lens, but unfortunately didn't have one available to test the E-P1 with.)"
Too many numbers. These two cameras, the G1 and E-P1, are too close on the numbers to really get any feel for what's going on. For me anyway. They do feel different, but that difference is more subtle than looking at someone's performance review numbers.
Then the question: is the performance satisfactory or not? I'm sure that's going to vary depending on the perception of the user and the situation of the camera in use. I, personally, have never found autofocus to be particularly fast in perception though it might be faster than my eye in timing numbers.
It's an interesting study in psychology at the end. ;-)
A lazy day here hung at the pool a bit......and played with some additional camera settings. I've decided I REALLY like the three choices for spot metering. This shot was done with the "highlight" spot meter. For this setting the camera is assuming what you are metering on is a hightlight that you want to protect. Instead of bringing it back to neutral, it is just making sure it doesn't blow. As you would then expect there is a similar spot meter for use to meter on shadows as well as the normal spot meter. Seems like it can be faster than trying to dial in exposure compensation. Worth trying it out to see if it works for you.
Sorry for yet another shot of the bridge, but it is always availble as a test subject (unless it is too foggy ). E-P1 with 50 lux at about f8. A bit of a curves adjustment on the jpeg. Shot as monochrome and I believe with the red filter enabled.
Interesting Terry. You mentioned it before and it seems as though it could be pretty powerful once one gets the hang of it.
You have the bridge--I have the garden .
Nice to hear that the Spot H and Spot L options are proving useful for you!
I'd have to live with it a while to get the hang of it. I'm so used to using the metering with just Spot mode as it is. Fascinating camera. Come'on Lightroom ... ];-)
yehh...Terry, you should put t' little camera in your purse and go down town...the Avedon show opens @ t' SFMOMA...today
You folks are just lucky you can even go outside. Hit 115 degrees in Phoenix today, even too hot to go outside and take a swim in my pool. I need out of here. Hope it's nice in NY leaving in 3 days. Might have to go to my favorite shopping store B&H, now that is one dangerous place for a gear slut like me.
A few quick shots from the weekend.
The shots at the lake are with the 7-14. The others are with the 50 lux.
Sony A99, RX1, RX100
I hope you will keep us posted about your B & H trip. I've never been, though one of these days just for fun---but its always fun to hear about others' trips and what they find new. Stay inside until you leave!!!!!
Thanks Diane but I actually have to go out on a runway and shoot a corporate jet with the wheels down for landing. Yes on asphalt in this heat today which supposed to hit 113. I just hate summer here. I'm a native Jersey boy and been living here 31 years and i am still trying to figure out how stupid I really am. I hate heat.
Have to admit I really like these images coming off the EP-1 and that is something I usually don't say but this thing has it going on.
are you sure that is what the highlight spot meter is doing? I don't have E-P1 (though I wish I did), but with other Oly cameras the highlight metering purposely overexposes, while the shadow metering purposely underexposes. It isn't designed to 'protect' the highlights or shadows, but to prevent the camera from metering these things to gray.
Both highlight and spot metering functions are still useful - but not really any different than purposefully adding or subtracting exposure compensation. I only mention this because it is a frequent assumption about highlight spot metering in the Oly dpreview forums - and people get really upset when their highlights aren't 'protected' after all.
I think we are getting at the same thing. If I spot meter on the highligt in a normal spot meter mode the camera will try and neutralize it back to grey. My understanding and the way it has been working for me is as you say it over exposes but not by enough to let the highlights blow or the shadows to go to black clipping (depending which spot setting you use). So as an experiment, if I were to matrix meter a scene where the sky would blow, and then switched to spot highlight and metered on the part the was blowing in the first meter reading, the camera would adjust exposure treat the part I'm spot metering on as a highlight but not a blown one and adjusts the scene from there. So, when I say it protects the highlights all I'm saying is that meter with that option on the highlight the camera doesn't let it blow. If I have this wrong let me know as it seems to be working the way I'm describing it.
Looks like I am keeping the E-P1 after all. Does anybody know who is selling a leather case for the Pen? I like how the Olympus looks with the leather strap, but who know when we will get it over here. Any new news? Thanks, -Durr
Send him an email ... ;-)
I already contacted Luigi. I wanted a strap for mine. He is going to do a case for it. It will take some time.
Thanks Joan. I thought the same thing, but she corrected me. They are "chocolate chip cookies"
Sony A99, RX1, RX100
A couple from yesterday working with Monochrome red filter and highlight spot metering. All with the 17mm pancake.
The conservatory in Golden Gate Park. The colors were so lush it felt criminal to make the pictures in B&W but this is going to be one of my first outings with a converted IR camera
I think the metering worked well. I love delicate flower petals.
Fort Point - one of my regular bridge spots tall black building is my office.
I know it's that damn bridge again
hehehe I cheated I just had to turn it to color eventually
Last edited by Terry; 14th July 2009 at 20:44.
Maybe it just works better now that there is more room to overexpose without clipping with the newer sensors. With the prior generation cameras, it would just add a stop of exposure compensation seemingly without regard to whether that would induce clipping.
In any case, your pics look great so far, so maybe E-P1 has 'intelligent' highlight metering. Or maybe you are just a better picture taker
Oluv in Germany did, look at this pictures, left Oly-Studio, right with C1
Edit, in fact I found that post on DPR from Uwe's EP-1 diary (entry on 7/9)
I got it to work using HexEdit on Mac OS, replacing all the E-30 strings with E-P1 in the ImageCore.dylib file in the Capture One v4.8.1 trial version. There may be a better way, but this one worked for me. No guarantees/warranties, you are on your own, proceed at your own risk.
Can someone help me out? Does your kit 14-42 lens lock closed? Mine locks when it is
open, but does not lock when closed. You can turn the zoom and ring and open it with out unlocking. Is this normal? Thanks