How about a more fun with IR thread?

[scho]

Really lovely, Carl

Thank you Cindy.

 

[Vivek]

Vivek, I really like the clarity and tones in yours. Are you using a circular polarizer?

Cindy, Thanks. If you look a page or two earlier in this thread, I have posted details of it. No normal polarizer works for IR. It is an IR polarizer.

A kind/generous gift from Mr. Gonzales of http://www.boldervision.com/

The image clarity is more of an attestment to the Pana 20/1.7. Simply fantastic. I have been patiently waiting for their 14/2.5 and the fisheye...

 

[scho]

Atmospherics were a bit weird today with a mix of dull overcast haze and forest fire smoke. Picked the last of the available sweet cherries (normally they don't start until first week in July) and then had lunch at a nice little vineyard. Two shots with the G1-IR and Contax G 35mm f/2 Planar. Very flat lighting.

 

[Vivek]

It was a glorious day today here.

Two shots with Fujinon-TV lenses (first with a 50/1.4 plus diopter and the second a 75/1.8) on a hacked G1 (Hoya R72, IR polarizer).

 

[Terry]

Some from today at Muir Wood and Tomales Bay

 

[Rich M]

Terry.....NICE work.....I like all three......especially the frirst.

R

 

[Vivek]

Fujinon-TV 50/1.2, Hacked G1

 

[Kiri]

Hi all, great thread you have going here.
I've just started messing about with IR on my GH1 with r72 lens filter.

Here is one I took recently with the 20/1.7 lens.
Still not really sure what the best way to go about processing the images is. I can't seem to get the right WB in camera (it is still very red), and so I rely on basically just doing the RAW file WB manually in photoshop. I think I'm doing something wrong, because my images never seem to look like they are meant to according to the tutorials I have tried to follow...lol. Oh well, I'm just making up my own way as I go along.
What do you think?

If anyone has any advice on how to process the files better, please let me know. Right now it is quite a time-consuming process of trial and error until I get something I like

 

[scho]

Two from a warm afternoon walk around the arboretum ponds. G1-IR with 35mm f/2 Contax G. Houston Pond image stitched from 4 images.

Houston Pond

Picnic under an ancient willow

 

[Vivek]

 

[Bob]

Mt Rainier

GF1 IR
-bob

 

[Bob]

Hi all, great thread you have going here.
I've just started messing about with IR on my GH1 with r72 lens filter.

Here is one I took recently with the 20/1.7 lens.
Still not really sure what the best way to go about processing the images is. I can't seem to get the right WB in camera (it is still very red), and so I rely on basically just doing the RAW file WB manually in photoshop. I think I'm doing something wrong, because my images never seem to look like they are meant to according to the tutorials I have tried to follow...lol. Oh well, I'm just making up my own way as I go along.
What do you think?

-- snip --
If anyone has any advice on how to process the files better, please let me know. Right now it is quite a time-consuming process of trial and error until I get something I like

Has your gh1 been converted to IR? Which conversion was it?
thanks
-bob

 

[Kiri]

Hi Bob. No my GH1 isn't converted. I'm just using an r72 filter on the lens.

Here is another shot:

 

[Bob]

Hi Bob. No my GH1 isn't converted. I'm just using an r72 filter on the lens.
- snip -

Well, first you are getting a different ir bandpass than you might with a converted camera so your effective speed and spectral response will be dominated by three factors.
1) Sensor (essentially linear)
2) IR blocking and protective filter built-in over the sensor
3) R72 filter

While there is clearly significant ir sensitivity with this arrangement, it is different from what you might achieve with a converted camera at least with regard to speed.
My IR converted GF1 seems to have about the same sensitivity as my unconverted GF1.

As to conversion, I have found that depending on the filtration used over the sensor and lens, a white balance adjustment is required well beyond the capability of some processing programs.
Lightroom 3 for example, is limited to 2000K while with my gf1 setup, I really am looking for something a bit lower. While the numbers are not exactly comparable, I feel that C1 gives you more WB range to manipulate.

The best in-camera solution I have found is to set up a custom white balance using some green grass as the white reference. Set that custom WB and you will probably be in the ball park.

As for other processing:
Ine common approach is the red-blue channel switch.
This can be done on photoshop using the channel mixer. Set the red channel to be 0% red and 100& blue and the blue to be 0% blue and 100% red for starters. Fine tune to taste.

-bob

 

[Kiri]

Well, first you are getting a different ir bandpass than you might with a converted camera so your effective speed and spectral response will be dominated by three factors.
1) Sensor (essentially linear)
2) IR blocking and protective filter built-in over the sensor
3) R72 filter

While there is clearly significant ir sensitivity with this arrangement, it is different from what you might achieve with a converted camera at least with regard to speed.
My IR converted GF1 seems to have about the same sensitivity as my unconverted GF1.

As to conversion, I have found that depending on the filtration used over the sensor and lens, a white balance adjustment is required well beyond the capability of some processing programs.
Lightroom 3 for example, is limited to 2000K while with my gf1 setup, I really am looking for something a bit lower. While the numbers are not exactly comparable, I feel that C1 gives you more WB range to manipulate.

The best in-camera solution I have found is to set up a custom white balance using some green grass as the white reference. Set that custom WB and you will probably be in the ball park.

As for other processing:
Ine common approach is the red-blue channel switch.
This can be done on photoshop using the channel mixer. Set the red channel to be 0% red and 100& blue and the blue to be 0% blue and 100% red for starters. Fine tune to taste.

-bob

Thanks for the response Bob. I would love to have a converted camera, but its just not possible for me at the moment.

Regarding the custom WB in camera, I have not been able to get it to work properly in camera, I think because of a limitation with the range of the WB. I can get it to show up as a pink/light red colour by setting the temperature as extreme as I can, but it is still not brown/white like I have seen posted on tutorials and the like.

May I ask what is the C1 software that you referred to in your post?

 

[Cindy Flood]

Two from a warm afternoon walk around the arboretum ponds. G1-IR with 35mm f/2 Contax G. Houston Pond image stitched from 4 images.

Houston Pond

Picnic under an ancient willow

Beautiful. I especially like the weeping willow.

 

[Cindy Flood]

Mt Rainier

GF1 IR
-bob

Gorgeous.

 

[Cindy Flood]

Hi Bob. No my GH1 isn't converted. I'm just using an r72 filter on the lens.

Here is another shot:

Kiri, This is very nice.
Bob, Carl, I and others, are using converted cameras. I am using C1 for my conversions (as Bob suggested), because it gives a better conversion than LR3 for my IR photos. I use the 72nm filter on my M8, because the M8 has a very weak IR blocking filter. I don't think that will work well on the Panasonics. You might want to read the information here:http://www.precisioncamera.com/infrared-conversion-services.html .

 

[Kiri]

Thanks Cindy. But could you tell me what C1 is?

 

[Bob]

C1 is "Capture One" a Phase One raw converter product.
http://www.phaseone.com/4/?pageid=go_for_pro.video.tools_sessions
-bob