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X100 images thread...let's get this party started....

barjohn

barjohn

New member
DR does not work the way you think it might. In order to obtain 200% you must shoot at ISO 400 or higher and to get 400% you must shoot at ISO 800 or higher. If you are going to use auto ISO it will select a higher ISO so don't be surprised when you see the shot taken at ISO 800 even though there was plenty of light. :)
 
J

jsnack

New member
barjohn said:
DR does not work the way you think it might. In order to obtain 200% you must shoot at ISO 400 or higher and to get 400% you must shoot at ISO 800 or higher. If you are going to use auto ISO it will select a higher ISO so don't be surprised when you see the shot taken at ISO 800 even though there was plenty of light. :)
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How about when you only have the Auto D-range on and select the ISO manually?
 
jonoslack

jonoslack

Active member
barjohn said:
Since photographs are a personal taste thing, it helps to have a reference point as to what you like so that one can interpret your critique in light of your personal preferences. In looking at your photographs, you appear to prefer the grainy look with high contrast B&W. Even your color shots appear to have strong contrast. Personally, I don't like the grainy look as it appears to be a contrived look to match some older master photographer's look. I believe, they obtained that look because it was the best their equipment and film was capable of producing and that had they had modern equipment the look would have been different but that is just my guess. Of course, high contrast and more vivid colors along with shallow DOF tend to give images more "pop" on a screen as we used to see in Kodachrome projected form a slide projector. Also, if you are using an M8 or M9 with its poor high ISO performance you are somewhat forced to go for the grainy B&W look as the color noise is horribly blotchy. I suspect the image you cited was soft for two reasons, some veiling flare and slightly our of focus but maybe that is the look he wanted.
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HI John
it was taken at f2 - directly away from the sun, no flare, whether veiling or otherwise. the focus point is slightly behind the perfect position (perfection is tricky at f2, 10cm on a windy day), but it's perfectly sharp where it's in focus - and yes, it was the look I wanted, one doesn't shoot at f2 on a bright sunny day by mistake!

I can quite understand Marc's point of view that he doesn't like the look - it's a bit odd, and these oddities are a matter of taste - no need to misrepresent/misinterpret Marc's spectacularly good photography to find a reason for his opinion.

all the best
 
jonoslack

jonoslack

Active member
Ashwin & Uwe
Thanks for the kind words about my rape shot!


ashwinrao1 said:
Here's what I mean...couldn't have been taken with a compact:

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Aswin - this is a great shot - love it.

ustein said:
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Uwe - both fine shots, but I especially like the fisher boat. I must do some black and white soon - just been trying to get to grips with the camera first.


The Smoking Camera said:
Backstage at a recital rehearsal.
f2 iso 1600

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Joe - this one is definitely smokin - wonderful shot.
 
jonoslack

jonoslack

Active member
Hi There
With respect to DR and it's implications

jsnack said:
Great stuff, everyone. I just received my X100 and will try to post something soon.

One question...are you folks using the auto dynamic range or setting it for each shot?
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barjohn said:
DR does not work the way you think it might. In order to obtain 200% you must shoot at ISO 400 or higher and to get 400% you must shoot at ISO 800 or higher. If you are going to use auto ISO it will select a higher ISO so don't be surprised when you see the shot taken at ISO 800 even though there was plenty of light. :)
Click to expand...
John is the expert on the foibles of the camera (he's had it longest and put in lots of valuable effort). As he points out, you must either set the ISO high, or put it on Auto to take advantage of DR.

I started thinking that the jpgs were so good, that I'd really shoot only jpg, but after doing some comparisons I came to the conclusion that everything the jpg did you could do with the RAW files afterwards . . . . but of course, once you've shot jpg you're locked in. I put something about it in another post

JPG or RAW?

Of course, you can shoot jpg+RAW, or you can shoot RAW and press the RAW button to get a jpg in the circumstances where you might like to take advantage of the DR setting.

But - and here seems to me to be the problem (shoot me down in flames if I'm wrong John). IF you have set auto iso + auto DR, and EVEN if you are only shooting RAW, then the ISO will jump about in the way required to produce the DR jpg shot. This means that you can find yourself shooting at ISO 800 in perfectly good light, which does, of course, have an impact on the quality of the RAW file.

My personal feeling is that the safest way to shoot with the camera is to set the jpg settings to standard, turn off DR and shoot only RAW files. There are so many complications involved with the settings, which certainly do not always do what you expect, that this way of working, although less adventurous, seems to be the safest

Other Opinions Welcome!

all the best
 
S

Sapphie

Member
Thanks Jono. Regarding the setting etc, sounds like we could do with starting a FAQ, 'hints and tips' or 'known unknowns' thread, unless anyone knows of one being maintained elsewhere?

Some of my RAWs were underexposed, I assume because I had the DR thing on 'AUTO'.

It does seem a great camera though ... I want to get out and play with it but I have to be at work :-(

Lee
 
barjohn

barjohn

New member
Jono,

Like you, I don't use the HDR feature because I want control over what I am getting. It does effect RAW as well as JPGs and the RAWs appear underexposed. It isn't hard to bring them up in LR using the fill slider. If you really want HDR, use the auto bracket exposure setting as at 5fps you will have 3 images that HDR software can combine easily.
 
jonoslack

jonoslack

Active member
barjohn said:
Jono,

Like you, I don't use the HDR feature because I want control over what I am getting. It does effect RAW as well as JPGs and the RAWs appear underexposed. It isn't hard to bring them up in LR using the fill slider. If you really want HDR, use the auto bracket exposure setting as at 5fps you will have 3 images that HDR software can combine easily.
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HI John
Well - I don't actually much like HDR anyway :ROTFL:
Usually, on the very rare occasions when I do want to do it, I do 3 versions in Aperture with different exposure settings and then combine in Photoshop, then you don't get any registration problems.

But hey - whether or not one wants it isn't quite the point here!

I must revisit your post about firmware after using the camera for a week.

My biggest irritation at present is using macro mode - if you then manually review the shot it takes it straight out of macro mode:mad:

all the best
 
Terry

Terry

New member
Jono - fastest way to macro mode is to just tap the button twice. Yes, it is annoying that reviewing an image cancels it. Also, in macro mode the manual suggests using f4.
 
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