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Fun with the Fuji X10

Jorgen Udvang

Jorgen Udvang

Subscriber Member
No question about it. The X10 is a must have, at least for me. Excellent for travel in this part of the world, particularly in combination with a film body (for bw). There's a waiting list at my local pusher's. I should probably sign up on that and at the same time ask him to sell a couple of obsolete bodies.
 
ustein

ustein

Contributing Editor
If you use camera JPEG images the in camera Picture Style settings are crucial.
Here are our Picture Style settings (for JPEGs):
Image Size: Large
Dynamic Range: 200%
Film Simulation: STD
Color: MID
Sharpness: M-SOFT (to avoid over sharpening with halos)
Highlight Tone: M-SOFT
Shadow Tone: SOFT (shows more open shadows)
Noise Reduction: LOW
These settings are made to allow the most options in your post processing. Blocked shadows and clipped highlights cannot be undone later.
 
B

Ben Rubinstein

Active member
Uwe, the problem with you and your pictures are that they say very little about a camera. The tonality which you manage to show in all your images, from whatever camera, is never short of incredible, helped by your general soft rendering style. The tonality you show I've only ever seen in my own images from what to me has always been my benchmark of tonality, the 1Ds3. You manage it from a P&S!
 
Arjuna

Arjuna

Active member
Thanks to Uwe for the suggested JPEG settings - I will give them a try.

Note that not all combinations of settings are available: e.g. if the ISO is set to Auto(1600), or even direct 1600, the SOFT option is not available for Shadow Tone - only STANDARD, MEDIUM HARD, and HARD (ISO must be 800 or lower, and the camera can not be in Program Mode for MEDIUM SOFT or SOFT to be available for Shadow Tone). In a bit of playing with settings, a couple of times I noticed that changing one setting resulted in another setting being changed or re-set. My brief perusal of the manual did not find any documentation of these restrictions.
 
Last edited:
Terry

Terry

New member
Arjuna said:
Thanks to Uwe for the suggested JPEG settings - I will give them a try.

Note that not all combinations of settings are available: e.g. if the ISO is set to Auto(1600), or even direct 1600, the SOFT option is not available for Shadow Tone - only STANDARD, MEDIUM HARD, and HARD (ISO must be 800 or lower, and the camera can not be in Program Mode for MEDIUM SOFT or SOFT to be available for Shadow Tone). In a bit of playing with settings, a couple of times I noticed that changing one setting resulted in another setting being changed or re-set. My brief perusal of the manual did not find any documentation of these restrictions.
Click to expand...
Yup, I just found the ISO 1600 SOFT incompatibility. The good news on the settings changes is that the camera alerts you that it is making the change by showing the function in yellow.

I think I just figured out what is going to go on my C2 setting! I think it will be my high ISO emergency settings. This way I won't change ISO in my regular aperture priority thereby resetting the SOFT setting.

Now we know what the camera is doing in high ISOs....crushing the shadows "look ma, no noise". :D
 
ustein

ustein

Contributing Editor
>the ISO 1600 SOFT incompatibility.

Not a big deal as ISO 1600 should be just used in emergencies. The camera can use f/2-2.8 in low light and this helps already.
 
W

woodmancy

Subscriber Member
ustein said:
If you use camera JPEG images the in camera Picture Style settings are crucial.
Here are our Picture Style settings (for JPEGs):
Image Size: Large
Dynamic Range: 200%
Film Simulation: STD
Color: MID
Sharpness: M-SOFT (to avoid over sharpening with halos)
Highlight Tone: M-SOFT
Shadow Tone: SOFT (shows more open shadows)
Noise Reduction: LOW
These settings are made to allow the most options in your post processing. Blocked shadows and clipped highlights cannot be undone later.
Click to expand...
Does this mean that you will always be working with 12mp and the camera will not use EXR mode?

Keith
 
ustein

ustein

Contributing Editor
>Does this mean that you will always be working with 12mp and the camera will not use EXR mode?

Most of the time I guess. But EXR modes are also worth to explore and most settings would stay the same.
 
Jim Radcliffe

Jim Radcliffe

Member
I have added an X10 section to my website at Boxed Light. So far I am really enjoying using this little camera. http://www.boxedlight.com/x10/ I've not begun to play with RAW yet and still learning about the "hidden features" of the X10. No regrets on the purchase. This may be the camera that replaces my small sensor D-Lux 4.

Here are a few samples from my first couple of days with it.







 
Amin

Amin

Active member
Re: Fuji X10

Lars Vinberg said:
Here's some interesting math: at widest setting the X10 lens has a 3.55 mm max aperture, and at longest setting the max aperture is 10.1 mm.

Compare this to a typical m43 kit zoom lens like the Panasonic 14-42/3.5-5.6, with 4 mm aperture at widest and 7.5 mm aperture at longest focal length.

Two conclusions from this (ignoring the fact that wide and tele ends have a bit different angles of view):
- X10 lens is able to defocus to at least the same degree as a m43 kit lens;
- X10 lens captures at least as much light as a m43 kit lens, which despite difference in sensor size should be reflected in sensitivity and noise levels being comparable. In theory, that is - for a given shutter speed a lower ISO can be used on X10.

I think that's what people are seeing in actual use?
Click to expand...
There is actually a fairly long history for this sort of thing. At one time I had a Leica Digilux 2 with 7-22.5/2-2.4 and an Olympus E-410 with 14-42/3.5-5.6. The Leica sensor was near exactly a 4x crop, while the Oly was a 2x crop. Meanwhile, the two cameras were almost exactly the same size with the Leica zoom having the distinct advantages of better feel and lack of extension while zooming. It also slightly exceeded the Oly lens in terms of physical aperture at tele.

The Panasonic LX3 re-invented the small sensor fast zoom, bringing to it a much more compact form than we saw with the classic "bridge" cameras. The Samsung TL500/EX1 took things a step further by extending the tele reach, and the Olympus XZ1 eeked out a touch more speed. The Fuji joins the Samsung and Olympus as members of this class of camera which can match the total light gathering ability and DOF control of a typical Micro 4/3 kit, which is much larger.

On the other hand, power-extending, collapsible designs like the new Panasonic Lumix X 14-42 bring the MFT cameras back down to the size of this Fuji X10 class of camera, and while the total light gathering may not differ, when light is adequate for both cameras to be used at base ISO, the larger sensor camera will offer some advantages in image quality, eg tonal range.
 
Amin

Amin

Active member
The color I am seeing from Fuji X10 JPEGs in this thread and others is making me extremely tempted to get this camera. For better or for worse, I can't afford it right now... but I am terribly tempted.
 
Q

quadtones

Member
Terry, Jim, Uwe, others--

Thanks so much for your great information. I should have the X10 in my hands in a few days [Jack's Camera in Muncie, IN had a couple--they've been great to deal with in the past], and looking forward to carrying it when I;m just not in the mood for the M's with multiple bodies and lenses. I particularly appreciate having a starting point for JPEGs and for the undocumented features.
 
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