this is in response to the video shootout absolutely bias review by John Lehmann.
"I'm not sure of the setting you had set up to use the 100-400mm lens the shutter lag can be a minor challenge depending on how you set up the shooting menu.
The bigger issue is the hood blocking the view which you forgot to mention, for shooting casually its not a big deal just a work around but for a paid shoot what your (testing situation) the hood prevents ultimate ability to make good composures. In fact when you have the lens either at 400mm or with the extender on and properly have the camera set to acquire fast tracking of moving objects you loose the horizon orientation easily and/or the top or bottom of the frame is hard to ascertain.
That being said the real truth is Fuji engineers know the issues...limitations that exist with the X-Pro2 and X-T2, the marketing department knows how to sell the sizzle and the pros who buy the camera and use it professionally know the work around. That doesn't mean Fuji needs to take three years to produce a flash unit (when other companies precluding Metz) could have put a private label flash to market in 6 months , or to release 24 MP camera.
But what I don't understand is how you release a gimmicky 100-400mm F5.6 when a 100-300mm F4.0 IS with internal filter slot and better ergonomics would have been a smarter choice for two hundred dollars more. The buy amateurs that spend the money for the 100-400mm are buying at the top of their budget and for the pros its like a low-medium lens purchase.
Ive used the lens extensively and I have very mixed results. John your video assessment is correct that under good-great lighting the lens will get you by but its not the dream machine. In fact it's not so much the lens fault but as I said more the fact of the hood blocking your vision with proper camera settings if you just want to shoot single burst (one frame) there is no issues.
I have owned many Fuji cameras the X-pro2 is now working fine as I quickly learned you MUST underexpose the images to make a printable file in bright light the sensor cannot handle "expose to the right"? I not sure why? Best results with Fuji sensor right now is to underexpose by 1-2 stops and pull up the shadows in full sun or bright cloudy days. If you even think about shooting into the sun forget it. The sensor cant handle the DR your going to loose even at F16 the file just doesn't have the magic to gain a proper exposure at both ends even in post process, it may look good on the screen but try printing a 20" print and you will see what I mean.
My last RANT which is the deal-killer for me is the battery life, when shooting at burst rates above 5FPS forget about having less that 7-10 batteries for a half a day shoot. Again FUJI the battery situation SUCKS! NO REASONABLE EXPLANATION YOU CAN MAKE WILL CONVINCE ME OTHERWISE. I own many other systems that allow me to shoot endlessly with two batteries at the most three, HELL with one scene I can easily go thru three Fuji battery's in less than an hour. WHY didn't you fix the problem with the X-T2 instead of making a bandage adding a vertical grip and being able to shoot a little longer having 3 extra pounds of junk in your hand? Really a shame I love my Fuji's but I cant stand the big issues that cripple productivity when you need to lean on your tools a bit for some help.