M9 files upsizing...

[PeterSchlicht]

Experts,

Say you have a sharp, 160 ISO, M9 raw file and perform raw development in Lightroom. What are the best options to resize the file e.g. up to 30"x45" or even 40"x60" using any software on the market? What process or workflow would provide the best quality files in terms of sharpness, smoothness, cleanliness, etc.?
I would like to send the files for Lambda printing and I'm trying produce the highest quality files possible with my M9 files and also some D700 files.

Thanks, Peter

 

[bruin]

I haven't worked with M9 raw files, but I have made 24"x36" prints using Qimage. I would trust it with your uprezzing, sharpening, and printer driving requirements.

 

[dougpeterson]

Close Lightroom

Open Capture One

Turn off (or down) luminance noise reduction, turn off sharpening, process to 250% within capture one, open in photoshop (or dedicated app) and sharpen to taste given your output medium.

*couldn't resist*

 

[PeterSchlicht]

dougpetersonci:

... I'm not sure what so funny with my post, but at least I got two replies...

I'm just trying to test out the limits of my files. It might be a ridiculous attempt trying to print 40x60", but if it doesn't turn out acceptable quality, at least I know it then.

So, in your opinion C1 wins over LR?
If I understand correctly, you are saying I should convert the DNG in C1, adjusting the white balance, tweak the colors, etc... without noise reduction, without sharpening and save as a 250% scaled tiff or psd (if possible). Open in PS and use unsharp masking (bicubic smoother ? or bicubic sharper ? ) with parameters depending on the paper type.

Correct me if I'm wrong...

bruin:
Thanks for your reply. I'm on Mac. Apparently Qimage is a Windows-only application and I don't really want install Parallels just for this...

 

[archiM44]

I find that the method in this thread works well for me:
http://forum.getdpi.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19174
I also have Genuine Fractals and that also works well and is easy to use.
I also have tried Photozoom and Size Fixer XL
Upsizing in Capture One as outlined above also gives me good results.
I have made comparison prints on my Epson 3800 of a very small crop from a well exposed and sharp DNG and could hardly find any real differences even when viewing the prints at ridiculous close distances.
Maybe another printing method would show more differences, but I have some A2 sized prints made from cropped DNG's from my M8 upsized in GF (now have an M9) and they are above reproach and I am sure the method outlined in the thread would have been just as good.
Your post isn't funny, but my purchasing all those upsizing programs trying to find the best certainly is!

 

[PeterSchlicht]

archiM44, thanks a lot for the link. I will try the procedure and see how it looks.

 

[dougpeterson]

The only reason for my smiley face was that your question was how to accomplish the best results within a workflow where you are processing in LightRoom, and my suggestion was to not process in LightRoom.

I assert that you will extract more high-frequency detail (small image detail and fine texture) using Capture One than LR3. From there final enlarging/sharpening is, in large part, a matter of taste (what kinds of artifacts of enlargement do you want) but the choice of raw processors is very important since you can't enlarge/sharpen detail that isn't found by the raw processor.

Of course this assertion should be vetted by your own testing - and the forum will benefit if you do so and post the results.



Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
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[cmb_]

Peter, the info in the link was very specific to the original posters image size and ppi (125ppi).

The basic idea is to increase both resolution and image size to about 20% over your target using bicubic smoother, add some edges sharpening as needed, then downsize to target resolution and image size.

For example: If I have an 8 x 12 in 360 ppi image and I want to print it 16 x 24 in at 360 ppi - first uprez to 19.2 in x 28.8 in at 440 ppi using bicubic smoother, sharpen if needed, then downsize to 16 x 24 at 360 ppi using bicubic sharper.

Be sure to read Jack's post and Thomas' post in that thread.

 

[PeterSchlicht]

Got it, Doug. I have Capture One as well... but did mostly use Lightroom in the past months. Seem I should dig into C1 a bit more and explore/compare the capabilities.

cmb, some recommendations follow the 20% over approach, and some say you should increase in fixed steps like 200% or 400% due to the 'cubic' interpolation...
If I had a printer already I would just print the stuff off and look, just like in my 25 yr old wet darkroom. But I have to send it to lab for now (whitewall.com) and see what i get. I hope to get a 3880 printer soon to do normal printing...

 

[Jack]

Best to use 200% increments if going to a 400% or larger final -- and here I am referring to linear enlargement. But I would only edge sharpen after the last uprez step. Note too that adding a little noise to the last uprez before final downrezzing helps camouflage transition-area artifacts if you go 400% or larger.

The good news for you is that the M8/M9 files take enlargement very well.

 

[PeterSchlicht]

Good news, Jack. I actually saw your recommendation already in another thread. Let's see what I can get out of it. My current problem is that i don't have an inkjet to play with and try different crops... but changing to Leica sets you off a few bugs... so when the dust settles and the wife doesn't look, I'll get an Epson...