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Capture One Pro 6 - how to set the default ICC profile for a camera?

GrahamWelland

Subscriber & Workshop Member
Is there a way to set the icc profile used by default by C1Pro for a particular digital back/camera?

By default all images loaded from my P40+ are associated with Base Characteristics -> ICC Profile -> P40+ Flash v2. However, I'd rather set the default to Outdoor Daylight for every image brought in.

I see that I can create presets and have these associated at import time with every new image added. However, C1 warns about not setting this using Base Characteristics, presumably because it will apply regardless of camera or back type if you use other systems (I have Phase One, Leaf & Nikon).

Is there a way to tell C1 to always use my choice of Outdoor Daylight with P40+ files, maybe Leaf LF2 Product HS 4 with Leaf files, and a specific profile for my Nikons too?

Am I missing something obvious because I don't see anything in preferences and there's no 'set as default' for a particular camera that I can see, at least not one that doesn't override all imports.

Anyone?
 

thomas

New member
Is there a way to set the icc profile used by default by C1Pro for a particular digital back/camera?
no

I see that I can create presets and have these associated at import time with every new image added.
to be more precise: you can create "styles" (that contain certain presets/settings) and apply them on import

However, C1 warns about not setting this using Base Characteristics
who cares? :)
As long as the images you are importing come from the same camera it doesn't matter.
I use styles that contain icc profiles and film curves. The option to apply styles on import is one of the new features I really appreciate... especially with regard to input profiles.
 

GrahamWelland

Subscriber & Workshop Member
I've been using the preset/styles on import but it would be nice not to have to bother especially since I'm importing from 3 different cameras and I know I'll mess it up more than once.
 

thomas

New member
well, there is one trick. I would not really recommend it but it's doable.
Open the profile folder in the application content... so C1->contents->resources->profiles.
Rename the "flash" profile to "flash_original" or so. Then rename the "outdoor daylight" profile to "flash" (you have to rename the file name and the internal name; for instance in color sync utility).
So the profile named "flash" is now actually the "outdoor daylight" profile that will be loaded by default for the respective camera.
 

Jack

Sr. Administrator
Staff member
Styles is a good way to go, but I have found I actually prefer the "flash v2" profile for my P65+ in *most* (not all) situations anyway --- especially including outdoor landscapes. It is very, very close to the outdoor daylight profile to begin with, but give better blue's for skies IMHO and of course works very well under studio lighting if you set a custom capture WB on the back for your set...
 

thomas

New member
The flash-V2 looks as if Phase tweaked the original flash profile with the Basic Color Editor... "smart saturation" seems to be involved in the V2 profile.

The Outdoor Daylight profile (wireframe) is much larger whereas the Flash V2 profile (true color) does not even fully encompass sRGB (white).
 

Jack

Sr. Administrator
Staff member
Thomas, that was an eye-opener for me. I had never bothered to compar them inside color view, only using "my eye" on typical landscape shots. What is apparent is that in Flash V2, the saturation is increased, and it appears most in blue, a little less in greens and reds. Which probably explains why I preferred skies with Flash V2 --- kind of a Provia color film effect.
 

thomas

New member
As long as the profile provides a pleasant look, there's certainly nothing wrong with it.
I think generally we worry too much about the size of gamuts as a lot of photographs ("real scenes") could easily be mapped into something like sRGB and still preserve the appearance of the scene (simplified speaking...).
On the other hand I can well imagine compressed gamuts (i.e. based on "smart saturation") are a bit tricky to handle as it is harder to produce fine tonal transitions.
Me personally I don't use smart saturation in the Color Editor, i.e. I only use the advanced not the basic Color Editor. Therfore it's just a guess and maybe I'm wrong.
 
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