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I'd say it appears this is a case of overcorrection, and that to get a more natural-looking view you need to adjust the shift until the verticals at the sides of the image are parallel with the edge of the frame (or ever so slightly inclined inwards from bottom to top)
ok thanks,The "correct" way to do it is to first level your camera so that it is absolutely horizontal and then apply the required shift (and tilt if needed). A bubble level might help. This will give you parallell lines. However sometimes a slight convergence may look more natural; in those cases, tip the camera slightly upwards. Hope this helps.
Hi- With wide shift lenses in particular [and 24 is very wide], great attention must be paid to getting the tripod platform head absolutely level for building photography. Your camera is slightly pointed downwards, hence the obvious divergence.should I have tilted it forward maybe a little
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Hi- With wide shift lenses in particular [and 24 is very wide], great attention must be paid to getting the tripod platform head absolutely level for building photography. Your camera is slightly pointed downwards, hence the obvious divergence.
In framing architecture shots, pay great attention to the left/right edges of the frame to ensure your verticals are parallel, you might find this easier with just a token amount of vertical rise to 'set' the tripod platform adjustments before your final rising-front adjustment on the lens. These platform adjustments can be minor and subtle; I couldn't do them with a tripod ball head, a geared head is much easier [and a geared head on top of a levelling-base is even better].
In your picture, there are optical illusions at play. The columns are built with convergence, and it's an old building so you can't trust that any building's 'level' is actually 'true', yet alone any wavy tendencies in the road and kerb stones.
The workhorse cameras for architecture were 5x4 view-cameras; they gave a far larger screen than 35mm style dslrs. Big screens are far easier to set an image for parallel verticals [or horizontals] than roll-film view-cameras, and especially dslrs. This stuff takes practice and some concentration on picture framing details [or a sort-out visit to Lightroom].
Good luck.
………….. Chris
thanks I will be doing that for sure for now onI do quite a bit of interior and exterior work for architects and interior designers and never had a problem. It appears to me that the camera just wasn't perfectly level. Bubble levels aren't that great IMO. I use mine on a D800 mostly and use the artificial horizon built into the camera and viewed on the back. It's a very good lens.