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How many of you are actually determining the nodal of your lens before shooting panoramas? I am getting mixed advice on this. Some say do it to eliminate parallax. Others say it really makes no difference in your images.
It all depends on how rigorous you wish to be, and/or the risk you are prepared to accept of an error in the stitch (for example, are you at a location you will never return to, and therefore cannot afford for the panorama to stitch incorrectly?).I am getting mixed advice on this. Some say do it to eliminate parallax. Others say it really makes no difference in your images.
To travel light. Pano heads and setups can be large and heavy.Once you know the nodal point for a lens, what reason would there be to ignore it when shooting later?
Thank you for the tip. This is what I got for my HC 80mm:hasselblad actually provides the location of the nodal point for it's lenses on it's information site. (location with respect to film/sensor plane)
what i have done is to mark my RRS nodal slide for each relevant V-series lens i have so i know where to position the slide with respect to pano rotation.
by the way, the nodal point is not the entrance pupil, but the virtual point about which rotaion can occur without parallax.
i have found Autopano giga to give better results than photoshop for merging without bowties.
and i shoot right to left (if i can remember), because then capture 1 places the files in the viewer in the natural order (last shot will be to the left)
No reason other than curiosity."I will try some images with my H5D with and without determining the nodal point and see what difference it makes."
This will involve more effort than simply determining the nodal point. Once you know the nodal point for a lens, what reason would there be to ignore it when shooting later?
Does anyone know if Mamiya/Phase One has a similar information table? That would be very useful.hasselblad actually provides the location of the nodal point for it's lenses on it's information site. (location with respect to film/sensor plane)
The aperture is usually somewhere between the two nodal points (S and S') in a lens, but never at them. But you can simply find the nodal point by swing the camera and seeing if the horizontal distance between a near object and a far object changes. If it does, you are not at the right position. Adjust the camera until that parallax shift no longer occurs.Does anyone know if Mamiya/Phase One has a similar information table? That would be very useful.
I'm not usually inclined to do stitching but I recently did a three panel stitch with an inaccurate "nodal point" (i.e. I placed the aperture plane approximately at the center of rotation on the tripod). FWIW basically the only place where I could see a defect was a slight mis-aligning of bricks at a couple of spots (attached) and even then it wasn't terribly objectionable. The attached image is an 83 pixel wide crop of a 14,508 pixel image. So less than 1/3 inch in a final 300dpi print.
i use the RRS pano clamp and the RRS nodal rail.
i clamped the camera to the nodal rail and measured from the film plane index mark the stated amount and placed a mark on the side of the nodal rail (for each lens).
then slide the nodal rail in the pano clamp aligning the mark you just made with the center of rotation mark for the pano clamp