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LF (4x5) Newbie Questions

carstenw

Active member
Re: Burzynski Ball Head II Mini Preview (field test to come)

I think you'll definitely want panning capability. When you're composing your frame it will be much easier to make small adjustments instead of having to loosen the ball head and relevel the camera all the time.
Yes, I think you are right. The only open question is whether or not the tightening knob interferes with the bottom of the camera. I think it should be okay, but I have too little experience to visualize it properly.
 

Jack

Sr. Administrator
Staff member
The lip on the 45SU plate fit over the edge of the Chamonix tripod mounting base for a solid lock. Also, that 45SU plate comes with a 3/8 screw instead of a 1/4...
 

carstenw

Active member
What size are the Chamonix screwholes? I guess if you used the Ebony plate, they must be 3/8. I thought they were 1/4.
 

Jack

Sr. Administrator
Staff member
Sure, assuming you can find film... 4x5 Polaroid holders work just like any other, save for being a bit thicker. In fact, I always carried a Polaroid holder and kept it in the car since it worked with both Fuji and Kodak readyloads -- not ideal, but served fine in a pinch if your Kodak or fuji holder went DOA. You just never engaged the Pola rollers ;)
 

carstenw

Active member
I was at a Fotobörse today (camera swap meet) and had the Linhof Master Technika demonstrated to me. 1500 Euro instead of the 580 of the Chamonix, but what a gorgeous thing that is. I have to sit down and compare specs to see if it really could work for me, but I fell in love with that thing. Now I have to sit down and figure out the differences between the Technika III, IV, V, Master Technika, Master Technika 2000 (and 3000?) and so on.

Does anyone have any links on these?
 

routlaw

Member
I was at a Fotobörse today (camera swap meet) and had the Linhof Master Technika demonstrated to me. 1500 Euro instead of the 580 of the Chamonix, but what a gorgeous thing that is. I have to sit down and compare specs to see if it really could work for me, but I fell in love with that thing. Now I have to sit down and figure out the differences between the Technika III, IV, V, Master Technika, Master Technika 2000 (and 3000?) and so on.

Does anyone have any links on these?
:D Carsten I have been going through this same thing myself wanting to upgrade from my Zone VI field camera. Jack and some others posters provided some excellent opinions on the MT vs the Ebony which are the two cameras I am considering. Dedicated end users seem to be split about 50/50 favoring Ebony vs the Linhof MT in all its various iterations. From what I have learned so far it seems the Linhof has the edge for mechanical refinements, but gives up some capabilities for wider, as in really wide angle capabilities. Some of the Ebonys can be very light in weight others about the same as the MT.

I don't know all of the differences between the III, IV, and V (all very old by now) but from what I understand the MT was an improvement of sorts over those models. The 2000 added some additional features, drop front bed to allow for wider angle lenses on a back focusing rail within the box, and the 3000 the most current model took that a step further with enhanced capabilities and slightly different way of focusing the from the inner or back rail. The classic series also has the rangefinder/cam focusing capabilities, cost more than the 3000 and I think gives up some of the wide angle functions the 3000 model has. Could be wrong about this. Anyway I would suggest you download the pdf brochures on the Linhof site to check the specs.

Hope this helps.

Rob
 

Lars

Active member
I was at a Fotobörse today (camera swap meet) and had the Linhof Master Technika demonstrated to me. 1500 Euro instead of the 580 of the Chamonix, but what a gorgeous thing that is. I have to sit down and compare specs to see if it really could work for me, but I fell in love with that thing. Now I have to sit down and figure out the differences between the Technika III, IV, V, Master Technika, Master Technika 2000 (and 3000?) and so on.

Does anyone have any links on these?
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ sorry €€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€ ;)
 
If you plan on hiking with your 4x5, be sure to compare the weights. I finally sold my Wista SP metal field camera, which I liked very much, and bought a Chamonix, which is several pounds lighter.
The MT is a very nice camera, but heavier and a lot more money. It all depends on what you want to use the camera for, how much weight you are willing/able to carry, and what your budget is.
 

Lars

Active member
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ sorry €€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€€ ;)
OK let me rephrase that... your first 4x5 doesn't have to be the best camera with the most excellent craftsmanship. It simply has to be good enough.

No matter what camera you start out with, you'll want to replace it after a year or three when you have figured out how to think and shoot LF. Or maybe you decide that LF is not for you. Seen from that perspective, a good buying advice is keep your investment low.
 

carstenw

Active member
Well, all good advice, but... the Master Technika Classic that I saw today was in very good, near-perfect condition, for 1500 Euro. These go for several hundred more than that on eBay, so my investment is in fact probably better protected than if I buy a new Chamonix 45N-1.

The MT weighs 2.5kg, and the Chamonix 1.3kg. I have to add up what my MF kit weighs, since I find this fine, and then compare to the 4x5 kit weight and see if the MT is within a reasonable range from that. An extra 1.2kg is not that much, but then I said this for my 210/5.6, and again for the 90/5.6 or 90/4.5 I am looking at, and now again for the camera... A kilo here, a kilo there, pretty soon we are talking real weight :)
 

carstenw

Active member
Somewhere there was a little discussion about loupes for focusing, but I can't find it any more. I thought it was in this thread, but there are just a couple of comments on page 1.

Anyway, I thought about this for a long time, since paying 220 Euro for the Rodenstock or Schneider 6x loupe seems really over the top, since it isn't that much more than my lenses cost, individually!

I had the choice between either getting another brand, or going with a different magnification, because for unknown reasons, the 6x magnification is much more expensive than, say, the 4x. In the end, I took my Hasselblad 2000FC/M with 110/2 to the shop, to compare 4x and 6x loupes directly in that ground glass. They unfortunately did not have the 6x in stock, so I played with 2 different 4x loupes for a bit, and found it more than sufficient.

If I am thinking about this right, the detail needing to be focused on is smaller on MF than on LF, so if it works well for MF (which it did), it should also be okay for LF, so I bought the Rodenstock 4x Aspherical loupe, for around 100 Euro. Still a large outlay, but much more reasonable.I also considered a Sylvestri tilting loupe, but had no way of trying it out, so decided on the Rodenstock.

I suppose if I ever find myself getting soft shots due to lacking magnification, I will have to switch or add another loupe. The second-hand value of these loupes is good though, so I would lose little by trying it this way.

I was surprised to see that the loupe comes with neither pouch nor lens covers. What do people do to protect their loupes?
 
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Lars

Active member
All a loupe needs to do is help you focus. It doesn't have to be good optically at all. A cheap plastic lens will do just fine, no point whatsoever to spend the big bucks, I mean Euros, on fancy APO glass.

What is important is:
- Solid sides, no clear lower half. some loupes have a clear bottom of the barrel to allow for reflective viewing.
- focus plane below bottom of loupe. When you shoot with a wideangle lens, the best viewing angle in corners will be an angle to the glass surface. so it's important that you can tilt the loupe and still achive focus. This is possible with loupes that have adjustable focus. For this reason, avoid loupes with a large bottom diameter.
- Proper magnification for groundglass use. 10x is too much, 4x - 6x probably what most people like.
- A neck strap is a nice feature. But if you want to keep your spotmeter in a neck strap as well then be prepared for some frustration from entanglements. I use belt pockets for the little stuff but a photo vest is also a great idea.

A loupe is a field tool and will get dirty and worn. My Silvestri came with a little protection bag, but it just gets in the way. It's better to consider the loupe a write-off, then you don't have to worry about it getting worn.
 

carstenw

Active member
All good points. The Sylvestri tilts into the corners, but I think that I will get by with the Rodenstock, which focuses.

Has anyone here used a Grafmatic film holder? Does it work on normal international back cameras?
 
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