Which 90mm f/4.5 or f/5.6?

[carstenw]

Yeah, after reading a few comparisons like the one above, I started realizing that going for an XL or Grandagon-N 90 was really not necessary, and after having read many reviews of the Chamonix (and the Technika), it really isn't necessary to get an Ebony. Sure, the Ebony is nice, but the difference is really not that great in the end. This stuff is *all* great.

I love high-end equipment as much as anyone else, but I really need to focus my money elsewhere at the moment, like debt-clearing and saving for retirement. I am trying to swap out some unused stuff for some stuff I will use more, and if possible, get some money into the bank at the same time. The damn thing is that no one is buying my unused stuff Bad economy to sell in. Anyone want a great chrome M6?

 

[Jeremy]

I love high-end equipment as much as anyone else, but I really need to focus my money elsewhere at the moment, like debt-clearing and saving for retirement.

Don't forget: film. :thumbs:

 

[carstenw]

I've got 50 sheets of Adox CHS 50 and 50 sheets of Tri-X 320 ($$$) waiting on my shelf I even have the chemicals to develop them, but no tanks yet. I have to figure out what I want to do there. I also need film holders, but it looks like I can get nice Fidelity holders for somewhere between 10 and 20 Euro a piece, second-hand. I'll probably want 5 or so. I also need a focusing loupe. I am still not in the home stretch, I am afraid.

 

[bensonga]

Congratulations on the Linhof 90...it looks like a beauty! You can absolutely have a great time learning and get terrific photos with less expensive equipment. I started out with a Graphic monorail view camera and Ilex lens...the whole works (with case, film holders etc) cost less than $300 (in the mid-80s) and one of my best ever 4x5 photos was taken with that camera.

Whatever you get, I'm sure you'll enjoy it and years down the road, if you still enjoy LF, you may yet find the right time to buy one of those beautiful Ebony's. Couldn't afford mine until I was 50+ years old.

Gary

 

[carstenw]

I sure hope I will like LF enough to stay. If I do, an Ebony may well be in my future, but maybe a 5x7.

 

[Jack]

You can absolutely have a great time learning and get terrific photos with less expensive equipment.

Excellent point! Even pinhole looks pretty good out of LF --- this was an effective 210mm (moderate wide) f220 pinhole on 8x10 with Pro 160 color neg. Exposure was "Sunny 16", or 1 second...

 

[carstenw]

I am still thinking about that Prontor Prof. shutter, since it does look like it might interfere with the front standard on the Chamonix, and almost certainly would interfere with the Master Technika. Would it make sense to keep an eye open for a Copal-0 shutter to replace it with? What are these worth on the second-hand market? The only difference between this shutter on different lenses is the aperture scale, if I understand correctly. Where could I get a correct scale, if I bought a Copal-0 with the wrong scale?

Thanks for all hints.

 

[lilmsmaggie]

Jack,

Now that I have actually committed to a Chamonix 45N-2 and bought two used Rodenstock lenses (90mm 6.8, and 210 4.5 APO Sironar-S), I'm hard pressed to decide on the next focal length. I'm leaning towards a 75mm Rodie.

 

[Jack]

Jack,

Now that I have actually committed to a Chamonix 45N-2 and bought two used Rodenstock lenses (90mm 6.8, and 210 4.5 APO Sironar-S), I'm hard pressed to decide on the next focal length. I'm leaning towards a 75mm Rodie.

I think you'll find 75 and 90 pretty close in terms of what you can do with them. In reality it's like having a 22-1/2 and a 27 in 35mm, so I'd opt for a larger spread, like a 58 (17) and a 90 (27), or a 75 (22-1/2) and a 110 (35).

Here is my preference, but understanding everybody's needs are different. If I could only have 2 lenses, it would probably be a 90 and 150 -- I seriously made 85% of my best LF images with those two lenses. If three, probably a 90, 150 and a 210. A four lens lineup, I'd go 75, 110, 150 and a compact 240. Of course at the end of the day, this is why LF shooters often end up with a bunch of lenses.

 

[bensonga]

And don't forget the Nikkor 120 SW! Or the Nikkor 300 M.

And if you have multiple 4x5 cameras with different size lens boards, you don't want to be messing around screwing and unscrewing the lenses from each lens board.....it's a slippery slope. I'm still thinking I need a second Nikkor 120SW for my Sinar P. That focal length is one of my favorites.

Gary

 

[lilmsmaggie]

I think you'll find 75 and 90 pretty close in terms of what you can do with them. In reality it's like having a 22-1/2 and a 27 in 35mm, so I'd opt for a larger spread, like a 58 (17) and a 90 (27), or a 75 (22-1/2) and a 110 (35).

While shooting assignments for a class last semester (35mm), I found myself wishing I had a 24mm. Although I had a 50-135 zoom, I don't recall any shots taken at the short end of the zooms focal length. I was shooting aircraft in their hangers (this is where the 24mm really would have come in handy), a few environmental portraits and some landscapes.

Most of my shots were with a 28mm, and a 85mm. It was either I couldn't get close enough with the wide angle, or I couldn't get close enough to pull in a distant subject. A bit frustrating but I made due with what I had and put together a nice portfolio for the class.

And don't forget the Nikkor 120 SW! Or the Nikkor 300 M. Gary

Considered a 120, but wouldn't that be a similar situation like the 75/90?

 

[bensonga]

Considered a 120, but wouldn't that be a similar situation like the 75/90?

Twice the difference for a 90/120 vs 75/90.

This is a useful page for comparing focal lengths with respect to 35mm cameras:

http://photo.net/equipment/medium-format/focal-length-conversion

I wouldn't think twice about owning both a 24mm or 28mm lens and a 35mm lens for a 35mm camera, so the 90/120/150/210/300mm range that I have for 4x5 works for me.

Like many folks, I started out with just one lens and built up my collection over a period of years.

Gary

 

[lilmsmaggie]

I wouldn't think twice about owning both a 24mm or 28mm lens and a 35mm lens for a 35mm camera, so the 90/120/150/210/300mm range that I have for 4x5 works for me.

I could definitely see getting a 300mm. Not sure how long of a focal length the Chamonix can handle before rigidity becomes an issue. I know the Cham will handle the 300mm. Maybe 360 - don't know.

As far as the 75mm goes, I was thinking I would need it if I wanted to do interior shots. I didn't think the 90 would give me enough wiggle room.

 

[Jeremy]

I could definitely see getting a 300mm. Not sure how long of a focal length the Chamonix can handle before rigidity becomes an issue. I know the Cham will handle the 300mm. Maybe 360 - don't know.

I've used a 360mm f/6.3 Fujinon in Copal 3 on the Chamonix with no problems (with good technique). It's a very rigid camera.

 

[carstenw]

I am happy with my 90/210 first set (and throw in the 135 Xenar). I know that 90/150/210 is more popular, but the multiplication factor from 90 to 135 is 1.5, and from 135 to 210 is almost 1.5, so I think the 135 is the better lens in the middle. 300 would be the next step in this progression.

Anyway, my 135/3.8 Xenar got there, and in general, it is in fantastic condition. The very slowest shutter speeds (1s, 1/2s) sound like they might be a tad slow, and the turning of the shutter speed ring gets stiff towards 1/400s, almost as if there is an extra spring for that shutter speed only, but all speeds run smoothly, so I think if I just used it a little, everything would work fine pretty soon. I think it might just be stiff from disuse.

There is a little squeeze-type shutter-open lever, but when operated, it is a little stiff, and when released, the shutter returns sluggishly. I suppose T could also serve that function. In addition to the the shutter-open lever, aperture ring, shutter speed ring, shutter cocking lever and the shutter release, there is a little green knob which seems to be the flash sync setting (M or X), and then there is a little extra knobbie which I cannot determine the function of, about 8 O'Clock in the first photo, next to the shutter open lever. It slides perpendicular to the shutter speed ring, and I see a little lever running alongside the shutter speed ring move, when I slide the knobbie. It appears to serve as a lock or release to the shutter speed ring or the shutter itself, except that it doesn't actually do this. Anyone?

The one question mark is the "stuff" on one of the lens elements. I have taken some snaps to try to show what it looks like. The lens doesn't actually get foggy as it looks like in the third photo, that is just something to do with the angle and the light reflected off the table behind. In general, it looks a little like there is some dense dust in there, especially around the edges, but no spider webs. I am wondering if it might be the early stages of fungus.

 

[carstenw]

I forgot to mention: the covers are not original, and the rear cover is the wrong size. Does anyone know where I can get original, or at least Schneider, covers for this lens, in the right sizes? They outer diameters of the front and rear are 50.8mm and 37.3mm, respectively.

 

[Stuart Richardson]

Looks great Carsten. From what I remember of the SK Grimes website on compur shutters, there actually IS another spring for 1/400th, and it is difficult to turn to, so that behavior is normal. I don't know about the covers, but frankly, I don't think you will have much luck. You are best off trying to find modern snap in caps at around that size if you can (if the lens has threads on the front and back).

 

[carstenw]

One more thing I forgot: is the Synchro-Compur the same size as a Copal 1? It is too large for my extra Copal 0 board.

Stuart, I think I will be able to find a Schneider 51mm front cover. I found one with my first hit in a search. I don't know about the 37/38mm rear cover though. I might fire off an email to Schneider and ask them directly.

 

[carstenw]

Well, my email to Schneider was in vain. The first sentence in the reply was "your lens is 55 years old"... They have apparently washed their hands of lenses this old. I will need to find someone else to service it. I have found a gentleman who will overhaul the shutter, but the lens itself might be more difficult. I will do the shutter first, and then see.

 

[carstenw]

My Schneider 90mm f/5.6 Super-Angulon MC, Linhof select, has arrived, and it is a beauty! Really nice condition.

The one catch is the Prontor Professional 01 shutter. It runs beautifully, nicer than my Copal 1, I would say, and the Copal is as new. The Copal feels like a refugee from the past, but the Prontor Prof feels modern. There is a mechanism which allows one to set the aperture from behind, and there is a little lever which allows to open the shutter, also operable from behind. The cable release both cocks and releases the shutter, and every aspect of the shutter is a work of precision, a Zeiss item. Not a mark on it. However, it won't fit on the Master Technika I am going to buy...

What to do, what to do. Apparently there is a thriving market of people looking for these, even people who collect them for every lens they own. Is there anyone here who knows such a person? I might offer it to the gentleman who is fixing up my Synchro-Compur shutter on my 135 Xenar, and who is also going to re-mount the 90/5.6 on a Copal 0 shutter, on a Linhof Technika 0 board. Perhaps he could re-sell it to a studio photographer, and that would help offset, or even exceed, the cost of the Copal 0.

Does anyone have an idea of the value of such a shutter?