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It could be, unfortunately. The only to get at it, is a full CLA. The one thing to try first, is removing the front and read elements -- they unscrew as a group -- and thoroughly blow off the outside surface of those inside elements. Hopefully it's dust there and you'll be done. If not, and it is on the surfaces inside the groups themselves, it's likely fungus...
Found a nice Xenotar 150/2.8. Decided to pass:
Ok, double WHOA! if someone really paid $38k for that Linhoff badged Xenotar. I had no idea these lenses could command that kind of price....for the right buyer.
Well, there's a very good reason for that, the Compur shutters in fact do have an extra spring for the high speed, though they tend to be notoriously optimistic. I have never used the fastest speeds on any of my shutters, btw.
You'd be surprised what some people think....that little button allows you to use your Compur Rapid MXV in V mode (V stands for "Vorlaufwerk", essentially german for self time), you depress the button towards the lensboard when cocking the lens, and it allows the cocking lever to travel past it's normal postion, cocking the self timer and allowing it to run. ****use with great caution unless you know this shutter has been recently CLA'd, as the self timer rarely gets used and frequently is gummed up, rendering a perfectly usable shutter into essentially a paper weight until you get it overhauled. (or are brave enough to press on the cocking lever to give it a little extra oomph)
I have run into this alot with schneider lenses, especially with Componons. (essentially a Symmar with increased cell spacing for enlarging ratios) The general concensus I've gotten from several repair types, typically revolve around outgassing of lubricants used in the manufacturing process depositing themselves on the glass surface. I (personallly) have had a 100% success rate in disassembly and cleaning of glass elements out of around 15 lenses. While I hesitate to rule out the possibility of fungus, in my personal experience, the likelyhood is pretty low.
Jack, I imagine that the difference in coatings both inside and out would make that difference. My first purchase was a Schneider 5.6/12 180/310 Symmar convertible. I think this lens if its coated is single coated. Of course being new to LF most everything I read said start with a 210mm. I figured the 180 was good enough but I came across a Nikon W 5.6 210mm lens for $169 so I just could not pass it up. Likewise with the Nikon 90mm 4.5, I came across a deal for one at $499.00 so I felt at this price, I just could not afford to pass it up. I did a lot of research and reading prior to buying my lenses. I would suggest anyone do the same who is just starting to learn 4x5 photographery (a place where real photography starts. I am sure this has been said before but I will say it again. Two really important things to consider when purchasing a lens for LF is the projected image circle, and the angle of view. I wanted to make sure I had plenty of room to use my camera movements.
