The GetDPI Photography Forum
Great to see you here. Join our insightful photographic forum today and start tapping into a huge wealth of photographic knowledge. Completing our simple registration process will allow you to gain access to exclusive content, add your own topics and posts, share your work and connect with other members through your own private inbox! And don’t forget to say hi!
Using the M8 the traditional way
- Thread starter jaapv
- Start date
, I'm still trying to get into this street photography thing.
Guy Mancuso
Administrator, Instructor
Jaap one thing I might have done right off the bat was get lower down to there level. Which takes you into there space if you know what i mean. a good lesson for all is try to get away sometimes from eye level and get into dog view which adds some dimension.
We can certainly use the Gallery section under a image there is room for comments which maybe a different spot than normal but perfectly a logical place for comments and such. I have made several comments like this for some images. There maybe some tools Jack and I can set up to know there are comments that go with each image. We will look into that
We can certainly use the Gallery section under a image there is room for comments which maybe a different spot than normal but perfectly a logical place for comments and such. I have made several comments like this for some images. There maybe some tools Jack and I can set up to know there are comments that go with each image. We will look into that
Hi Jaap!
Re the whole critique thing, that was one of the main reasons for setting up the forum software the way we did. Note that the gallery software allows for comments, and those comments run under the main image just like threads do here!
The way I'd suggest using it is to use the BBcode link and post it under the section for the camera you used. So right here, start an M8 post for the image above, and link it to your gallery where we can all comment.
Here is the thumbnail link to one of my images as an expample. Note that I copy the BB code right under the image I want critiqued and paste it here, that's it!
Here's the example BB code "clickable" thumb, note it takes you directly to the image in my gallery and I left a sample comment under that image in the gallery:
Cheers,
Re the whole critique thing, that was one of the main reasons for setting up the forum software the way we did. Note that the gallery software allows for comments, and those comments run under the main image just like threads do here!
The way I'd suggest using it is to use the BBcode link and post it under the section for the camera you used. So right here, start an M8 post for the image above, and link it to your gallery where we can all comment.
Here is the thumbnail link to one of my images as an expample. Note that I copy the BB code right under the image I want critiqued and paste it here, that's it!
Here's the example BB code "clickable" thumb, note it takes you directly to the image in my gallery and I left a sample comment under that image in the gallery:
Cheers,
Now re your image... I like it. With street though, I think it's better to get in closer to your subject, especailly if you're using the wider-angle lenses.
One trick with a wide, is to get down to their level and close, but point the camera not directly at them --- the wideangle lens will generally then have the main subject at a golden mean. With longer lenses, I frame and focus pointing at something close to my intended subject, then right before I click, I re-compose to center the subject, make the shot then move away. Usually, the mian subject never knows they were a subjuct. That was the tactic I used above with the kids dancing image, taken with my 50 Lux on the M8...
One trick with a wide, is to get down to their level and close, but point the camera not directly at them --- the wideangle lens will generally then have the main subject at a golden mean. With longer lenses, I frame and focus pointing at something close to my intended subject, then right before I click, I re-compose to center the subject, make the shot then move away. Usually, the mian subject never knows they were a subjuct. That was the tactic I used above with the kids dancing image, taken with my 50 Lux on the M8...
Guy Mancuso
Administrator, Instructor
Jaap here i tried a couple things , re cropped and did some burning and dodging to bring the kids out on the right
Maggie O
Active member
Jaap, I quite like the first photo; it nicely captures the mis en scene of the township and the characters are arranged in a very pleasing geometry, each projecting a distinct personality.
I might have "printed" it a bit darker, but with the same contrast, or increased the contrast at current levels, but that's a minor quibble.
I might have "printed" it a bit darker, but with the same contrast, or increased the contrast at current levels, but that's a minor quibble.
Hank Graber
New member
Jaap,
That first image is beautiful. But you have to work that digital negative. I've taken the liberty. A bit of dodging and burning and selective contrast enhancement.
View attachment 638
That first image is beautiful. But you have to work that digital negative. I've taken the liberty. A bit of dodging and burning and selective contrast enhancement.
View attachment 638
woodyspedden
New member
One of my favorites. Grandkids doing their stuff.
Woody
Woody
S
Sean_Reid
Guest
Nice print Hank.
Jaap,
I actually think your vantage point works very well because we see each of those foreground figures distinctly against that clay ground. I think the pictures gets visually confused with that figure behind the basket but that's only place where I think it falters other than the passage above the fence line (and the way the man's head connects with it).
You know that I don't think there is any such thing as "street photography" but did you see the article called On "Street Photography"? Its relevant to what you're doing in this picture.
Cheers,
Sean
S
Sean_Reid
Guest
May I make an alternate cropping of your second picture? And, in this picture, I don't think the blown highlights are a problem at all.Thanks for the tips, guys.
I got this one from a lower point of view:
Personally I don't mind the blown highlight, but others may differ.
This picture is very well resolved, visually, from foreground to background. I think you're really using that window view that an RF camera gives us. It's one reason I primarily work with RF cameras.
Cheers,
Sean
Hank Graber
New member
You can use local manipulation of tone and contrast to provide more structure and hierarchy to your image. Darkening the foreground enhances the sense of perspective and 3D effect as the far background is lighter and flatter. It draws you into the image.
Increasing the contrast on the central figures makes them the focus of the stage.
View attachment 646
Increasing the contrast on the central figures makes them the focus of the stage.
View attachment 646
S
Sean_Reid
Guest
For my own taste, I wouldn't increase the contrast so much on the area with the figures but I like what you did to make that foreground area active. I'd still want to bring the bottom edge up though.
Cheers,
Sean
Hank Graber
New member
It's a bit over the top overall but working from a jpeg is not ideal. You want to be careful that the image doesn't start looking 'enhanced'.
With a tiny file like this I can do 20 changes in 10 minutes.
I start with a global curve adjustment to make sure the histogram is full range and the midtone is where I want it and the tone curve shape is suited for the images tonality.
Then I use soft masks for the local adjustments. I airbrush to make masks also cut masks and then blur the mask in mask mode to get a soft mask. You don't need to be precise with really wide soft edges. Just be careful that it doesn't start to look dodged or burned in. Applying some unsharp with say a really large radius of 60 and width of 10-20 will separate tones and pop highlites.
If you don't have to follow some contour you can switch to mask mode create a vignette and use it as a mask to gradually go to darker in the foregrounds. It's all the digital equivalent of dodging and burning in the darkroom but better with more control and flexibility.
I have been at this for a while. Worked on the first commercial paint systems long before photoshop. I owned a color prepress retouching business in the 80's in NYC - L'Oreal, Revlon, Cartier, Mercedes Benz were some of my clients.
Guy Mancuso
Administrator, Instructor
Workshop Maggie. LOL