The GetDPI Photography Forum

Great to see you here. Join our insightful photographic forum today and start tapping into a huge wealth of photographic knowledge. Completing our simple registration process will allow you to gain access to exclusive content, add your own topics and posts, share your work and connect with other members through your own private inbox! And don’t forget to say hi!

S Is For Show Us Your S2 Shots

fotografz

Well-known member
Hi guys,

What flashes work with the S-006?
I know the SF-58 does. But do any of the other Metz flashes work? I only ask because a lot of companies post that they work (metz, nissan) but when I tried them on my M240, I could only do manual mode. So I don't wanna buy a flash for the S-006 and have it only work in manual mode (even though I mainly shoot my Canons in manual mode, I still like the option of using TTL).
For TTL the SF58 is it as far as I know. It has to be set to HSS to work.

If you have CS lenses, you should get some strobe kit ... the S is an amazing camera to work with strobes.

- Marc
 

aDam007

New member
Hi Marc,

Thanks for the info. I actually have a Profoto B1 setup. I tried to get the Canon trigger to work with the S and the M, but it wouldn't. It's weird, as I don't expect TTL, but I at least expect the system to trigger the flashes..

I think I'm going to have to invest in basic PWs.
 

RVB

Member
Hi Marc,

Thanks for the info. I actually have a Profoto B1 setup. I tried to get the Canon trigger to work with the S and the M, but it wouldn't. It's weird, as I don't expect TTL, but I at least expect the system to trigger the flashes..

I think I'm going to have to invest in basic PWs.
Profotos standard air trigger wil trigger the B1's or any other profoto strobe,I use it with my S..

Rob
 

fotografz

Well-known member
Hi Marc,

Thanks for the info. I actually have a Profoto B1 setup. I tried to get the Canon trigger to work with the S and the M, but it wouldn't. It's weird, as I don't expect TTL, but I at least expect the system to trigger the flashes..

I think I'm going to have to invest in basic PWs.
That is weird. I use a B1, D1 AIRs, and an Acute 600B AIR Lithium battery pack with Profoto AIR Remote Transceivers and AIR Sync on my previous S2 and current S(006) all the time.

This is the first that I've heard that the Canon TTL version of AIR radio won't work as a transmitter on cameras other than Canon. I'd double check that with Profoto before abandoning the idea. Perhaps you have something set wrong on the radio unit, or the Channels or Group settings aren't matching?

Even if the Canon AIR unit won't work (which I still doubt), rather than PWs, I'd just get an AIR Remote Transceiver to use on your Leica S.

I sometimes shoot the S camera using up to 5+ Profoto AIR lights in studio ... with some heads up high on boom arms or buried in soft-boxes ... I have all of them on the same channel and use a different group letter so I can control each light independantly right from the camera. Oh, and if you use Leica CS lenses, the Profoto AIR will sync up to 1/1000 when set to speed mode ... PWs will not.

Hope this helps,

- Marc
 

aDam007

New member
Might be my trigger.. Works fine with my Canon in all modes TTL, Manual, etc. I'll try again, maybe the Leica hotshoe size and the trigger size don't allow the middle pin to line up properly. Whereas maybe the AIR Remote Transceiver is more simplistic so it is able to line up.. Or maybe I just didn't push the thing in enough :?

Just checked out the AIR Remote Transceiver, sounds like a plan to me.
 

aDam007

New member
One more tripod question, since I'm about to pull the trigger. If anyone has experience with the below two options..

TVC-23 + BH-40
or
TVC-33 + BH-55

My thoughts initially were TVC-23 would be a slight bit more practical for travelling around and shooting. But after RBV's endorsement of the TQV-14 I'm thinking of getting it and a BH-30 for times when I wanna travel and shoot the S w/tripod.
And buying either of the above sets, and using them for on location local work, studio work, and anywhere other then airplane trips where i would bring the TQV-14.

Thoughts on the above two tripods, is the 23 and bh-40 enough? Will the 33+55 be better, noticeably?

Thanks!
 

aDam007

New member
Also, when shooting into the sun with the 70, do you notice pretty bad flare?
Similar to the flare seen in the "defective sensor" shot, but worse.
 

Stuart Richardson

Active member
I have both, and the TVC-33 and BH-55 are noticeably better for the S2. The S2 is really demanding on equipment. The 23 and bh-40 are fine...they are stable, but if you are going to be using just one tripod, the 33 is much more robust. If you have to lug it long distances, then perhaps the 23 is a better choice, but if you can put it in a car and pull it out when needed, then the 33 is a better bet.

And no, I don't notice bad flare with the 70mm, but it is generally worse with a lot of lenses if you have the sun just outside the frame and are using either filters or not using the hood. The 70mm lenses front element is a flat plane of glass that is more like a protection filter, so adding another clear glass filter on top is not needed and detrimental to the quality.
 

Rolo

Member
Also, when shooting into the sun with the 70, do you notice pretty bad flare?
Similar to the flare seen in the "defective sensor" shot, but worse.
I've never had flare with my 70mm either, so far.

BTW, I presume you have the RRS L-plate for the S in your sights ? So useful. IMO. The RRS extension plate at full length takes you very near to the Nodal Point on most lenses.

I'm using Gitzo tripods with RRS heads at the moment, but seriously considering the 33. I carry a Leica Table-top tripod, fitted with the mini-RRS ball, almost everywhere.
 

aDam007

New member
I bought a filter from BHphoto (B+W 007 nano), as I was told at the Leica store that turn around time for a damaged front element on the 70s is at least 4 weeks. I was also told that it's REALLY expensive to fix.

I've tested the lens on tripod with and without filter, both in normal situations and backlit situations, and I don't seem to notice a difference. Either way the lens flares the same. If you look at my above shots on this page, you'll see the flare.. It's really quite typical in most of my shots (most of the time I shoot backlit subjects though). Notice this happens a bit with my (solms-fixed) 50APO, but happens less if not at all with most my other M lenses. Just thought the flare control would be better with these lenses. Zeiss can do it, why can't Leica?!
 

aDam007

New member
Also, I've been thinking, it makes sense for me to do the TVC-33 + BH-55 and TQC-14 + BH-30 for shorter trips.

Rolo - Yes I have the L-plate. Take a look at my shots above, do they seem typical in the flare department?
 

RVB

Member
Also, I've been thinking, it makes sense for me to do the TVC-33 + BH-55 and TQC-14 + BH-30 for shorter trips.

Rolo - Yes I have the L-plate. Take a look at my shots above, do they seem typical in the flare department?
I also have this combo and it works well,but consider a BH-40 on the TQC-14..it adds little extra weight and adds the extra stability.

If you think you may need extra height think about the 33L.. its not much heavier but a fair bit taller.

Rob
 

Stuart Richardson

Active member
Order the multipurpose plate as well...I generally use that as the L plate is a lot bigger and bulkier. I generally only put it on when I will specifically shooting in portrait...more often in a studio. Otherwise I prefer the smaller size and weight of the small plate. If you screw it in hard enough, it is still very stable on the camera.
 

Rolo

Member
Rolo - Take a look at my shots above, do they seem typical in the flare department?
I can't give a qualified opinion on this. I've only one lens that flares like a pig, a 90mm Tele-Elmarit. The S and Hasselblad V lenses that I use on my S just don't flare in the work I do, which is different to that which you're pursuing.

I don't believe that your experience with the S is typical and you shouldn't be in a position where you might be questioning whether something is working or not. In my experience of dealing with Leica, I'm confident that they would be of the same opinion. If anything needs fixing, or replacing they just do it. The S is great and so are Leica.

Gary
 

aDam007

New member
All great tips!

RVB - does the BH-40 stick out to far on the TQC-14? I'll have to look it up, see if I can find images of that combo.

Stuart - I bought a multipurpose plate for my M240, since I didn't like the dedicated plate (especially since I rarely if ever use the M240 on a tripod). I'd also like to get a single plate for the S-006 as you're right, the L-bracket sometimes isn't necessary. Especially when you need quick on and off tripod shots. Which plate gives the best fit BTW?


So anyone else have a take on the filter? Should I return it? I don't really see a problem with it, but maybe I haven't encountered all situations. I wouldn't care if the turn around time on fixing the front built in filter on the 70s was like 1-3 days. I just don't like the idea that it's like 4 weeks+ if I crack/scratch the glass.
I use filters on certain M lenses. Hood design is what determines if I use filters or not, to be honest. And again unless I'm missing something, it doesn't seem to play a role in degrading image quality.

Never used filters on Canon lenses BTW, as the price and repair times made filters unnecessary. And I've only had two incidents. Both with the coatings, and never bothered fixing them since it didn't affect image quality that I could tell. 10+ years of Canon use, before selling the system for Nikon 2y, then selling Nikon for Sony 1y. Then back to Canon lenses and no filters :D
 

RVB

Member
All great tips!

RVB - does the BH-40 stick out to far on the TQC-14? I'll have to look it up, see if I can find images of that combo.

Stuart - I bought a multipurpose plate for my M240, since I didn't like the dedicated plate (especially since I rarely if ever use the M240 on a tripod). I'd also like to get a single plate for the S-006 as you're right, the L-bracket sometimes isn't necessary. Especially when you need quick on and off tripod shots. Which plate gives the best fit BTW?


So anyone else have a take on the filter? Should I return it? I don't really see a problem with it, but maybe I haven't encountered all situations. I wouldn't care if the turn around time on fixing the front built in filter on the 70s was like 1-3 days. I just don't like the idea that it's like 4 weeks+ if I crack/scratch the glass.
I use filters on certain M lenses. Hood design is what determines if I use filters or not, to be honest. And again unless I'm missing something, it doesn't seem to play a role in degrading image quality.

Never used filters on Canon lenses BTW, as the price and repair times made filters unnecessary. And I've only had two incidents. Both with the coatings, and never bothered fixing them since it didn't affect image quality that I could tell. 10+ years of Canon use, before selling the system for Nikon 2y, then selling Nikon for Sony 1y. Then back to Canon lenses and no filters :D
Take a look at this review.. Spencer Cox Photography | RRS TQC-14 Review

Mine still fits in the smallest carry case,I believe it adds about 100grams to the weight.
 

Stuart Richardson

Active member
I am using the BP-CS. I really like RRS's tripods and heads, but I think they need to pare down their plates a bit...especially since most people will want to keep a plate on all the time. I asked them if they would make a dedicated non-L plate for the S cameras, and they basically said no. That's fine, but how many photographers really want to add a big hunk of aluminum permanently sticking out the side of their extremely expensive ergonomically refined camera? I know I don't. For some cameras the plates work really well (it is great on the Mamiya 7II for example), but I think RRS designs the plates thinking that everyone wants to have it optimally placed with a 600mm lens on a panorama rail, while most photographers just want a quick way to get it on and off a tripod while still being stable with normal lenses. I find the BP-CS is more than enough for all normal field use. Only if I am shooting tons of verticals or if I am shooting on a studio stand with the camera pointed at the floor or something, will I grab the L plate.

Regarding filters...well, I would say make sure you have a decent insurance policy and use the hoods. The hoods are big and sturdy and will keep most things away from the lens. I am sure that if you crash something into the front element it will not be solved over night, but I think it is such an unlikely scenario that something will get past the hood, impact the filter and then not do any damage to the lens behind it. For me at least, it is certainly not worth the extra flare and secondary reflections. Everyone has their own threshold though.
 

aDam007

New member
Stuart - I rarely if ever use the hood when it's not built in. But I guess I should start making a habit of it. Especially because I'm getting some pretty bad flare from the lens.

I'm glad you all endorse RRS. And yes, I also asked them if they plan on making a S-plate that's not L design. And they told me no as well.

I'm going to look into the BP-CS now.
 

aDam007

New member
Just realised, I have the BP-CS!
Thats the one I use on the M240. The lip on the plate will fit on the front of the camera. I just wish there was a way to get a bigger screw in there. As the lip on the plate would fit perfectly on the back side of the camera if it allowed for a bigger screw :(
 
Top