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S Is For Show Us Your S2 Shots

aDam007

New member
Hi Marc,

Not insulting at all. Everybody can miss something at one point or another.
I did try all those things however, and just to be safe, I tried them all again. No dice.

I don't think it's the camera, since I had the same problem with the first S-system that Leica recently replaced. I don't have any flashes yet to test the S-system hot shoe, but the chances of two cameras not having functioning hot shoes is unlikely.

The remote works with my Canon and even other cameras. Not with my M and not with my S though. Which is weird, as the M can trigger anything else I've thrown at it.

Since the Air removed has been tested to work (and can control the power of the lights), I think I'll purchase that. And maybe at the same time I'll buy good ol fashioned pocket wizards. And just return what doesn't work/suit me.


Thanks again guys!
 

menos

New member
Regarding simple Arca Swiss compatible plates for the S, I use Chinese made Kangrinpoche plates.

http://www.3s-kangrinpoche.com/en/Files/Product83.htm

I bought these a few years back for Nikon D3 when they had a great quality both to machining and finish (comparabel to my RRS gear back then) and found unfortunately that the finish quality when buying the S plate half a year ago was not as nice as they used to but still very usable with great fit to the S2 body. I bought them local but you probably find them easy on eBay.
They also sell tool-less screws for these plates, so you can use either an allen wrench or tighten the screw with a hinged grip integrated into the screw head.
I find this great as I often forget to bring the allen wrench when packing in a hurry.

To me the S anyway is the best non-tripod-based MF camera ;-)

I spent some time with the S2, doing street portraits during a CNY trip - didn't use the S2 for a long time before and was reminded what a nice piece if kit it is:







 

aDam007

New member
Menos - Nice images.

Kangrinpoche is a name I'm familiar with. Spending the last few years in Singapore, I've purchased plates from them when in a pinch. If my memory serves me correctly, I bought one for a backup 5DII, a 1Ds3, a D700 (backup), and some generic ones of varying sizes.

Didn't mind the brand, but I have a question. Since Kangrinpoche seems to work well with Markins ballheads, I'm hesitant to try them with RRS ballheads. I find that my RRS plates don't work well in the Markins ballheads and the Markins plates aren't fantastic in the RRS ballheads.

Wondering where Kangrinpoche fits into all of this?
 

menos

New member
Menos - Nice images.

Kangrinpoche is a name I'm familiar with. Spending the last few years in Singapore, I've purchased plates from them when in a pinch. If my memory serves me correctly, I bought one for a backup 5DII, a 1Ds3, a D700 (backup), and some generic ones of varying sizes.

Didn't mind the brand, but I have a question. Since Kangrinpoche seems to work well with Markins ballheads, I'm hesitant to try them with RRS ballheads. I find that my RRS plates don't work well in the Markins ballheads and the Markins plates aren't fantastic in the RRS ballheads.

Wondering where Kangrinpoche fits into all of this?
Hey Adam, I cannot comment in general if one or the other type fits, but it is funny you mention Markins ;-)

I have a Markins, specifically made for the Gitzo Traveller (the smallest head they do with a special, small diameter bottom plate to fit flush with the tiny Gitzo).
I do also have the medium sized version Markins head on my more substantial tripod I use occasionally for 4x5 and for long lenses. I really like the Markins heads.

I do use a Markins plate on my D800E (it's the smallest plate you can get specifically designed for the D800E), use Kangrinpoche plates on the D3 and S2 and a mix of plates from RRS, and other brands (all Arca Swiss style).

I use several RRS quick release clamps (one on my heavy RRS mono head, and diverse on rails, all with twist lock, NOT quick release lever lock).

So far I had absolutely zero issues with any of the combinations - RRS plates or super telephoto rails on the Markins heads or any of the diverse plates from Markins, Kangrinpoche, RRS, Velbon, etc … in the RRS clamps.

So this Kangrinpoche S2 plate (with the needed locking pin to fit and lock perfectly into the S2 body) works without any issues both on latest RRS QR clamps and the Markins heads.
Btw - the Kangrinpoche plate for the Leica S2 I have also has a slot on the right hand side to fix a strap (like needed to fit a hand strap).
 

aDam007

New member
Hey Adam, I cannot comment in general if one or the other type fits, but it is funny you mention Markins ;-)

I have a Markins, specifically made for the Gitzo Traveller (the smallest head they do with a special, small diameter bottom plate to fit flush with the tiny Gitzo).
I do also have the medium sized version Markins head on my more substantial tripod I use occasionally for 4x5 and for long lenses. I really like the Markins heads.

I do use a Markins plate on my D800E (it's the smallest plate you can get specifically designed for the D800E), use Kangrinpoche plates on the D3 and S2 and a mix of plates from RRS, and other brands (all Arca Swiss style).

I use several RRS quick release clamps (one on my heavy RRS mono head, and diverse on rails, all with twist lock, NOT quick release lever lock).

So far I had absolutely zero issues with any of the combinations - RRS plates or super telephoto rails on the Markins heads or any of the diverse plates from Markins, Kangrinpoche, RRS, Velbon, etc … in the RRS clamps.

So this Kangrinpoche S2 plate (with the needed locking pin to fit and lock perfectly into the S2 body) works without any issues both on latest RRS QR clamps and the Markins heads.
Btw - the Kangrinpoche plate for the Leica S2 I have also has a slot on the right hand side to fix a strap (like needed to fit a hand strap).

Interesting.. I have the Markins head you're talking about. The Q3T (and a Q3 non-T version). I'm going to sell my Gitzo tripods (traveller and 3-series explorer) and Markins ballheads now that I have the RRS gear (TVC-23+bh-55+bh-40+TQC-14+bh-30 then some misc centre columns and etc). All my stuff is QR though. My old knob didn't have compatibility issues. But my Markins QR stuff does with RRS.

I don't know why, maybe kangrinpoche updated their dovetail angles since I was using them?
 

aDam007

New member
menos - BTW, what lens(es) did you use to shoot those portraits?


Just picked up a 120mm Summarit-S. I'm not sure if I like it or not. Trying to find a good/reasonably priced 35mm Summarit-S still though.
 

menos

New member
It might be the quick release LEVER part that throws you off I guess.
I have been avoiding any of the lever actioned quick release systems and prefer knob style fasteners - never had an issue.
Congrats on the RRS gear - in my opinion it is as good as it gets - on top of that much nicer made than the Gitzo stuff (ducking for cover with all the Gitzo people around).
My next tripod should mine ever break will be a RSS.

Let's throw in a S2 picture for a change:





PS:

menos - BTW, what lens(es) did you use to shoot those portraits?


Just picked up a 120mm Summarit-S. I'm not sure if I like it or not. Trying to find a good/reasonably priced 35mm Summarit-S still though.

On this trip I just brought the S2 + 70 Summarit as an extra camera (I shoot mostly 35mm and have one MF camera along for specialty - panorama, portraits, 6x6, …)
The S2 somehow turned out to be the main camera while the Leica Ms stayed in the bag - totally unexpected.

The 120 Summarit is a monumental lens - I don't have one, as I use a 120/4 APO-Macro Planar instead.
I just found how wonderful the ~100mm range in 35mm is for portraits (loving the old 105/1.8 Ai-S Nikkor a lot) and have my eyes on a 100/2 Summicron should I add another S lens.
 

aDam007

New member
I had my eye on the 100/2 Summicron.. But I'm loving the 70summarit a lot. And for the work I intend to do, a one lens kit seems a lot more feasible with the S-system then it does with other systems I own/have owned. Though who knows with me.
 

docmoore

Subscriber and Workshop Member
Wonderful pictures all...

My favorites are the two from Tarpon Springs ... the diver and captain are outstanding ... one of my favorite memories of my youth. Lived in Largo/Clearwater and the TS field trips were a highlight.

Regards,

Bob
 

menos

New member
Been awhile since I posted some S shots.

Here are a few ... including a couple with my recently acquired S-100/2.

Explanations for each are under the image.

Leica S Work - fotografz

Thanks for looking.

- Marc
Marc, I really like what you did with the 100/2, especially the portraits of the diver, boat captain and the pilot!

With shots like the boat captain, pulling, do you find autofocus working well with such a very fast lens wide open or do you focus manually?

I have a really hard time using autofocus and recomposing with these lenses wide open on the S2 and rather focus on the ground glass with the frame composed instead (on the matte of the manual focus screen).

Any tip is highly welcome.
 

fotografz

Well-known member
Thanks everyone.

I'm very happy that the candids from "Sponge Town" and studio portrait of the WWII Pilot are liked because that is my current focus and most recent work ... I only have one wedding left and I'm done. Now, I'll be doing mostly studio and candid portrait studies, and walkabout "decisive moment" stuff.

Bob, we bought a second home in Palm Harbor between Clearwater and Tarpon Springs and I just spent my first Winter there. Just in the nick-of-time since it was another brutal winter up North. Nice light down here!

The S-100/2 is simply a dream come true for me and how I like to shoot. In a way, it reminds me of the Mandler M-75/1.4 ... except I have more in-focus shots than I could manage with the M lens : -)


Menos, do you have the AF function assigned to the joy stick on the back of the S so it is separate from the shutter button? The camera is set to Manual Focus and then pressing the joy stick (or AE button on the S2) does the AF. Not only is it faster, it seems more accurate.

I seem to have a decent AF hit rate working that way. However shooting weddings with the S does account for a lot of practice. Practice seems to inform one's instinct regarding acquired focus.

I rarely use Manual Focus on the ground glass for candid work with the S (mostly use Manual in the studio). Personally, I'm much more interested in getting the "decisive moments" than worrying about auto focus, ... so I work really fast at auto-focus/recompose/shoot.

IMO, there are probably more out-of-focus issues that could be subscribed to body sway and subject movement than from relatively minor off-center recompose. Quick instincts and speedy muscle memory seems to help a lot.

Lastly, I am not allergic to cropping for more pronounced off-center compositions. We have a generous sensor and the best set of MF lenses on the planet that help in that task ... IMHO of course.

- Marc
 

peterv

New member
Nice set of images, Marc. And wonderful flash-work! Really amazing how your were able to use so much flash light in such a subtle way, very nicely balanced.

The pilot-portait is well chosen, with his eyes moving to the left, very telling.

I like your 100mm 'Cron portaits too. I don't know how candid you want to be, but the diver and the boat captain portait could benefit from just a little eyelight, perhaps. For that I use the Leica SF-24d on my S2. It works great in A-mode with the CS lenses up to 1/1000 and exposure compensation to minus 2-3 stops.

Good to hear that you found a nice shelter from the terrible winter up North!
 

menos

New member
Menos, do you have the AF function assigned to the joy stick on the back of the S so it is separate from the shutter button? The camera is set to Manual Focus and then pressing the joy stick (or AE button on the S2) does the AF. Not only is it faster, it seems more accurate.

I seem to have a decent AF hit rate working that way. However shooting weddings with the S does account for a lot of practice. Practice seems to inform one's instinct regarding acquired focus.

I rarely use Manual Focus on the ground glass for candid work with the S (mostly use Manual in the studio). Personally, I'm much more interested in getting the "decisive moments" than worrying about auto focus, ... so I work really fast at auto-focus/recompose/shoot.

IMO, there are probably more out-of-focus issues that could be subscribed to body sway and subject movement than from relatively minor off-center recompose. Quick instincts and speedy muscle memory seems to help a lot.

Lastly, I am not allergic to cropping for more pronounced off-center compositions. We have a generous sensor and the best set of MF lenses on the planet that help in that task ... IMHO of course.

- Marc
Marc, thanks for the info. Yes, I have the S2 set up to be using the thumb button to activate Auto Focus.
I have the shutter release half press set up to lock exposure and use almost exclusively center weighted metering (I use the Leica M and my Nikon DSLRs the same way).

I meant that the focus issues I see myself having are not based on recomposing (I do this all the time with the other cameras without issues).
Maybe it's an issue with myself moving strangely when using the S2 - I guess, I should give this camera more time (I rarely used it over the last two years).
 

aDam007

New member
menos - Do you think it's the lenses you use with it? Could any of them have mid-zone dips? That's one of the most frustrating problems with the 50 Summilux-ASPH. Causes OOF shots all the time.
 

fotografz

Well-known member
Marc, thanks for the info. Yes, I have the S2 set up to be using the thumb button to activate Auto Focus.
I have the shutter release half press set up to lock exposure and use almost exclusively center weighted metering (I use the Leica M and my Nikon DSLRs the same way).

I meant that the focus issues I see myself having are not based on recomposing (I do this all the time with the other cameras without issues).
Maybe it's an issue with myself moving strangely when using the S2 - I guess, I should give this camera more time (I rarely used it over the last two years).
"(I rarely used it over the last two years)."

I'd hazard a guess that this may be part of the problem.

I use the S more than any other camera, and shoot with it on a regular basis. So much so that I'm questioning much of my other gear. Practice has made it a more capable camera then when I first got it. However, I still have a 35mm DSLR for the few times I need swift AF especially with moving subjects in lower or flat available light.

Is it the slower AF that is at issue? Or is it that the images just are not sharp?

One thing I've learned is that you cannot cheat shutter speeds with any MFD camera when shooting available light, and the S is no exception. Either I keep the shutter speed up, or resort to a mono-pod. Slight camera movement really becomes an issue with lenses like the S-100/2 because when working with such a narrow DOF, nothing appears sharp anywhere in the image.

Shutter speeds usually aren't an issue when working with strobes in lower light because the flash duration is so short.

- Marc
 

menos

New member
menos - Do you think it's the lenses you use with it? Could any of them have mid-zone dips? That's one of the most frustrating problems with the 50 Summilux-ASPH. Causes OOF shots all the time.
I don't think it's the lenses - it is likely user error on my part. The S lenses are probably among the best of the best around.

"(I rarely used it over the last two years)."

I'd hazard a guess that this may be part of the problem.

I use the S more than any other camera, and shoot with it on a regular basis. So much so that I'm questioning much of my other gear. Practice has made it a more capable camera then when I first got it. However, I still have a 35mm DSLR for the few times I need swift AF especially with moving subjects in lower or flat available light.

Is it the slower AF that is at issue? Or is it that the images just are not sharp?

One thing I've learned is that you cannot cheat shutter speeds with any MFD camera when shooting available light, and the S is no exception. Either I keep the shutter speed up, or resort to a mono-pod. Slight camera movement really becomes an issue with lenses like the S-100/2 because when working with such a narrow DOF, nothing appears sharp anywhere in the image.

Shutter speeds usually aren't an issue when working with strobes in lower light because the flash duration is so short.

- Marc
Marc, my issue is that more often than I am used to (from 35mm systems) I miss focus just enough to be bothersome when shooting close up wide open.
Say, the eye further away is in focus rather than the closer eye, or I get the beginning of the hairline in focus, rather than the eye, …

I find that when using the camera with the shutter release to focus in single drive mode, I very, very rarely miss focus in such situations.
The issue with the S2 is that if you setup the thumb button to auto focus (my preferred way) focussing will be at all times continuous focus.

As focussing is a lot slower than 35mm, I suspect that I just don't have the timing right between when to stop auto focus to when to start moving to recompose and have the AF starting to hunt the moment I recompose, resulting in missing focus …*if that makes any sense.

In short: you may very well be right that taking the S2 out more often and practicing to get more used to this.

On my recent trip I simply counteracted by stopping the lens down to f4 when normally I would shoot a portrait with a wider aperture.
 

satybhat

Member
Oh, how nice would it be to be able to post in this thread !!!
Recently, I have been debating my system choices and from the looks of it, it is very likely that I will go for a Leica S system. (Have to offload a lot of M gear for that )
On that note, I would like to hear from anyone with experience what they think about the 30-90 zoom on the S (006). As I understand it, the CCD sensor will limit the usefulness in cloudy / shady situations. As I see it, its clearly a winner between the 45-70 focal lengths, with distortions when wider or at the tele end. There is not a lot of information out there about it; it has both been maligned and praised. Its also quite pricey TBH. The option is to go for the 70 and the new luscious 100 (with only a 2K difference). Any thoughts?

(disclaiming: this query has also been posted on the MFD forum).
 
M

mjr

Guest
Hi Dirk

That doesn't sound right to me, your camera is acting in a different way to mine or maybe I have mine set up in another way.

I have mine set to manual focus with the rear joystick enabling auto focus, I can then use my thumb to tap the rear joystick, activate auto focus, once it has locked I can release my thumb and the camera doesn't then change that focus point, it is instantly back to manual focus and I can recompose as I like. Focussing with your thumb doesn't activate continuous focussing on my camera.

Does that make sense?

Mat
 
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