OK, this is wierd.
Flash is set to TTL.
If I run the flash off camera on the SC-28 pointing at the subject, EV comp on the flash works just as if the flash was mounted on the camera.
When I have the flash off camera on the SC-28 but pointed at the ceiling, EV comp on the flash makes no difference. I can put it at +3 or -3 and see the impact. The end result is a perfectly exposed image.
The flash in all cases is set on the correct f stop, is receiving ISO information from the camera, and my fingers are NOT covering the sensor on the flash.
What the #$%%^.
Is this because I should be using a different Nikon cable? I thought these cables were just a straight run of 4 wires connecting the same contacts on each end.
Ray
you are not going crazy...what you are seeing is how limited the sf-24D is
I have the sc-17 cord, I also have another cord from pentax that works with a small modification to the shoe, trimming off a tab allows the contacts to align.
I tested both and also with the flash on camera.
It can deliver acceptably exposed frames somewhat consistently on camera and on cord. Dialing in exp comp may or may not work, I had hit and miss results "hand holding" the camera and flash in direct and in bounce situations. Considering the low power of the unit it does an ok job in many situations, but you have to respect the power limits of the flash. The range of adjustment at 2.8 and the range of adjustment at f11 across all ISO's is 10 ev or more. The flash can only compensate so far.
I say "hand holding" because then I took all the sensor variables out and tripod mounted the camera and put the flash on stand. Then the exp comp worked consistently, within the limits of its adjustibility. It offers +-3ev but this is restricted to the ultimate power of the flash at a certain distance and f stop. So within narrow boundaries it will offer +-3ev, however, if you exceed either the max power or the minimum duration limits it will crap out, although you will often get a good exposure. It worked in direct and in bounce mode too. Just don't expect canon-nikon results for 5000$
It is actually much more reliable in A mode with respect to ev comp because the on flash sensor does a good job, although obviously not in bounce mode.
I use the cord sometimes so that I can put the light where I want it. If I want point and shoot I have found setting the camera to f11 on a wide and using the A-mode to be much more reliable, more like the old M6+sf20, just point and fire. Everything is exposed and in focus, and it looks great in bw.
Considering its size it works pretty well. Had Leica made a swivel head instead of a fixed head, just a hinge really, it would be more effective.
On-camera flash really is more about a creative choice than supplemental lighting. Where there is ample light but fill is needed it works very well and is mostly invisible. When there is no light it becomes dominant and I think you either have to go with it totally or reject it because there is no hiding it. But let me try fill flash indoors with the noct first at f1.0 1/15th and I'll report back