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Canon 50mm f0.95

wjlapier

Member
Don's conversion is at post #85, the lens on the right using the Viso III mount. Some Canon 50mm lenses had a C-adapter, I would think that you can use this on the G1 by using a Cine to m4/3 adapter though I see that the m4/3 adapter diameter for the lens to sit in may be too small. Not sure about this.

If you modify via Ken, he will need your original breech mount too and a LTM-M adapter.
Hello again. A google search for Viso III mount brought up your flickr pages. Stephen? Nice to meet you! If that's your little boy in those pictures he sure is cute and great for testing lenses!

In one of your comments you mentioned Don charged you $575 for conversion. Was that all parts included? Can you tell me more about the Viso III mount vs other's?

I did contact Don today.

Thanx--
 

Hacker

New member
Hello again. A google search for Viso III mount brought up your flickr pages. Stephen? Nice to meet you! If that's your little boy in those pictures he sure is cute and great for testing lenses!

In one of your comments you mentioned Don charged you $575 for conversion. Was that all parts included? Can you tell me more about the Viso III mount vs other's?

I did contact Don today.

Thanx--
That's me. The $575 included a CLA, the 6-bit coding, and the mount. Nothing else was needed (included $50 return shipping).

Wait time was about 6 months.
 

Hacker

New member
Ken's conversion works with some M cameras. Don's works with all. You also do not need a toothpick to release the lens as in the other conversions that I have seen and experienced. Go for Don's method, it is the best. He will calibrate for you also, so focusing is spot on.
 

wjlapier

Member
Ken's conversion works with some M cameras. Don's works with all. You also do not need a toothpick to release the lens as in the other conversions that I have seen and experienced. Go for Don's method, it is the best. He will calibrate for you also, so focusing is spot on.
Excellent! that's just what I needed to hear.
 
L

legba999

Guest
Hello,

I know this thread is a little old, but I have a question for 50mm 0.95 owners.
I own the 50mm and find I get too much "glow" in some of my shots, resulting in some highlights blown. Anyone else experience this and any suggestions about how to tame it a bit?
 

cam

Active member
Hello,

I know this thread is a little old, but I have a question for 50mm 0.95 owners.
I own the 50mm and find I get too much "glow" in some of my shots, resulting in some highlights blown. Anyone else experience this and any suggestions about how to tame it a bit?
enjoy it! it's all part of the charm of the lens!!!

(on a serious note, these large fast lenses do let more light in but the M8 metering doesn't always compensate properly... try adjusting the EV down and see if that helps.)
 
R

Ranger 9

Guest
Hello,

I know this thread is a little old, but I have a question for 50mm 0.95 owners.
I own the 50mm and find I get too much "glow" in some of my shots, resulting in some highlights blown. Anyone else experience this and any suggestions about how to tame it a bit?
Stopping down even slightly (e.g. to about f/1.1) cleans up the flares noticeably without losing much effective speed or changing the basic character of the lens. The farther you stop down, the less crazy it gets; once you get past about f/2.8, though, it starts to look like results from an ordinary lens.

Also, if you haven't done so already, you might want to experiment with a lens hood, since the Canon is very sensitive to off-axis light.

There are a few example photos at full aperture and f/2.8 linked from this post in my blog.
 
L

legba999

Guest
Thanks. I haven't tried a lens hood (I don't like 'em), but clearly it must help. I'll also try stopping down a bit... Now if I could just figure out how to upload an image to this forum...
 
V

Vivek

Guest
Hello,

I know this thread is a little old, but I have a question for 50mm 0.95 owners.
I own the 50mm and find I get too much "glow" in some of my shots, resulting in some highlights blown. Anyone else experience this and any suggestions about how to tame it a bit?
A while ago (either in this thread on another) I pointed the problems arising from shiny (unpainted) metal RF coupling area in this lens to Hacker.

It depends on how your lens looks like.

The less shiny metal areas in the optical path (true for any RF lens), the less glow.

Also, there are two types of 50/0.95 Canon lenses. The original ones and many TV lenses have this slight amber coating. A late version TV lens has blue coatings.

IME, it is this version with blue coatings that performs the best on digital (at least on an Epson R-D1s).
 
V

Vivek

Guest
I am afraid I can't offer anything new, Milady, as I parted company my Epson RD-1s a good 1.5 or so years ago.

The chemistry was right with the 50/0.95 on the R-D1s, even in adverse lighting conditions.

 

Hacker

New member
Oh, one last thing. Hacker, are all of your wedding pictures at .95? Or stopped down a little? They are excellent and I'm looking forward to using this lens on my M3.

Thanx--Bill
I realized that there is one question addressed to me which was missed. The answer is yes, all wide open @ f/0.95. I was not the official photographer, so could play around with the camera and lens.
 

Hacker

New member
Also, if you haven't done so already, you might want to experiment with a lens hood, since the Canon is very sensitive to off-axis light.
I have the original hood and leather case in Mint condition for sale! And the chrome front cap too! :p
 
G

GuitarCrazyo

Guest
Canon 50mm f0 95

When I was looking at those types of cameras advanced P&S, I got some advice from guys on here.... buy a dSLR. I did, and I am so happy I pulled the trigger. Sure, you cant put it in your pocket when youre skiing, but if you wear a backpack, you can easily carry it in there. The dSLRs are so much better in terms of everything youre looking for, too.

I got my Canon XS and two lenses for about 550, if that helps at all.
 

gero

New member
Ken's conversion works with some M cameras. Don's works with all. You also do not need a toothpick to release the lens as in the other conversions that I have seen and experienced. Go for Don's method, it is the best. He will calibrate for you also, so focusing is spot on.

When the lens is focused to infinity, there are 3 tabs that protect the rear glass element if the lens is seated in a surface. It looks like in the mount by Don they where taken away.

Can someone (Hacker?) confirm that?

Not that I sit a lens upside down unprotected, I think these tabs are not really needed.

Thank you.
 
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