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Has anyone reskinned their camera w/ Aki Asahi

M

mdwsta4

New member
I've seen numerous older cameras with their skin redone, but not as many newer cameras. Was looking at changing out the 'sharkskin' of the M9 for the 'vulcanite' of the M9P/M8.2. Wondering if any of you have done this and if so, how well is it holding up? I suppose durability is my main concern.

http://aki-asahi.com/store/html/M8/M8.php


Thanks!
 
Double Negative

Double Negative

Not Available
I haven't, though I'm considering it. Heard nothing but good things about their stuff.

Cameraleather.com was the former reigning champ, but their communications and timeliness leave a lot to be desired.
 
thrice

thrice

Active member
Double Negative said:
Cameraleather.com was the former reigning champ, but their communications and timeliness leave a lot to be desired.
Click to expand...
+1000

I've tried fruitlessly to buy leather from them. Both for an M and for a Polaroid 900. They're reluctant to help and very slow to reply, business must be booming.
 
M

mdwsta4

New member
Based on the slow response time from cameraleather.com, I decided to pick up a kit from aki. We'll see how quality is. I'd hate to replace the original skin with an aftermarket and have it fall apart in a year.
 
M

monza

Active member
How many times do I have to say that it is quality. :) Unless you are tremendously hard on your equipment it will last a long time.
 
M

mdwsta4

New member
Good to know, thanks Monza. It's one thing hearing quality, but as I haven't seen a used kit to see how well it holds up, I was still hesitant. Suppose your trifecta of 'quality' posts should reinforce the idea of quality ;)
 
M

mdwsta4

New member
Got my kit in the mail. Wow, talk about fast shipping!

before


stripped. Old skin came off really easily. Was able to not only keep it in one piece, but also reapply it to the card Aki sent in case I need to use it for something in the future


all cleaned up and ready to go. Used Goo-Gone to remove the last bit of residue the old skin left behind.


original M9 'shark' skin


new 4034 'vulcanite' skin


after


I've been using vinyl wrap on various applications for years so the install process was quick and painless. Probably took me less than 20 minutes from start to finish. Extremely pleased with the way everything came out. Now I just have to see how well the skin holds up.


Cheers,
M
 
D

D&A

Well-known member
When comparing images posted of the original M9 covering vs. this newer after market one, I noticed what appeared to be a small slit cut in the circle that will eventually surround the frame selector lever on the front of the body. This slit appears on the original Leica covering but not the aftermaket one. My question is does the frame lever on the M9 body or anything else (on the body) have to be removed to install this aftermarket covering or dies it simply fit over all levers, buttons etc. Thanks!

Dave (D&A)
 
M

mdwsta4

New member
I don't know if the new one had a slit around the frame lever or not, but as soon as I took it off the backing, it split so I would assume that it was and simply didn't show up in the original picture of the skin on its backing.

Regardless, no, I did not have to take the frame selector lever off, but that area did require the most amount of finessing. Easiest way to do this is to wet the adhesive so you are able to maneuver the skin more easily. Otherwise it is too sticky. I used an extremely small flat blade screw driver to ensure all areas were properly applied around this area.
 
D

D&A

Well-known member
mdwsta4 said:
I don't know if the new one had a slit around the frame lever or not, but as soon as I took it off the backing, it split so I would assume that it was and simply didn't show up in the original picture of the skin on its backing.

Regardless, no, I did not have to take the frame selector lever off, but that area did require the most amount of finessing. Easiest way to do this is to wet the adhesive so you are able to maneuver the skin more easily. Otherwise it is too sticky. I used an extremely small flat blade screw driver to ensure all areas were properly applied around this area.
Click to expand...
Thanks ever so much for the response mdwsta4...that is extremely helpful. Two additional questions:

1. What fluid did you apply to the back of the new covering (the adhesive side)? Simply water? Did you apply it only to a few problematic areas where you had to slide the covering in place of to the entire back of the new covering (adhesive side) prive to apply it all?

2. They show a choice of coverings but only sshow a image of one. I assume the one they show is the one you purchased...#4034? Any idea what the others look like?

Michael, documenting the process would be very imformative!

Thanks!
Dave (D&A)
 
M

MichaelM6

New member
Sure, it'll be fun and hopefully informative!

D&A said:
Thanks ever so much for the response mdwsta4...that is extremely helpful. Two additional questions:

1. What fluid did you apply to the back of the new covering (the adhesive side)? Simply water? Did you apply it only to a few problematic areas where you had to slide the covering in place of to the entire back of the new covering (adhesive side) prive to apply it all?

2. They show a choice of coverings but only sshow a image of one. I assume the one they show is the one you purchased...#4034? Any idea what the others look like?

Michael, documenting the process would be very imformative!

Thanks!
Dave (D&A)
Click to expand...
 
M

mdwsta4

New member
Not really sure how 'detailed' you can get. It's not rocket science. Pull off the old skin, clean off the adhesive, apply the new skin. Here's another link showing how it's done: Re-skinning the Leica M8 « efix:photography – News. Thoughts. Pictures.

I have a solution that I use, but you can do the same with tap water and even a tiny drop of soap. You can apply all over depending on how worried you are about applying the skin correctly the first time. I only used it around the lever.

I believe they have pictures of all the skins/textures, just not all on Leicas.
 
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