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Joel
Tom, AFAIK, you do not have/use any old lenses. So, IMO, absolutely no need for to be using any yellow filters on your lenses.Do you guys leave a yellow-filter on the M246 most of the time? I am starting to use a M246 and from the experience with the original MM I found it usefull for most light situations. By the way I love the M246 from the first Moment using it.
I understand that in one way the yellow filter can slightly enhance contrast in the sky, but I also think to remember that it can help to prevent blownhighlights. Can you conform this?Tom, AFAIK, you do not have/use any old lenses. So, IMO, absolutely no need for to be using any yellow filters on your lenses.
The old Elmar 35mm f/3.5 benefits from an yellow filter whereas the Summarit 35 f/2.5 (already with a sky high cotrast) does not need one.
I have read that a filter like the Heliopan digital yellow 2x hits the sweet spot light wave links for the original MM. I use one from time t time and t one honest haven't seen much of a difference though I think I have read there is some technical evidence for this.I understand that in one way the yellow filter can slightly enhance contrast in the sky, but I also think to remember that it can help to prevent blownhighlights. Can you conform this?
Not true with the M246 .... it will decrease exposure but the meter will pick this up ... and from personal experience I can guarantee that you can blow highlights with yellow and light orange filters. Great for contrastI understand that in one way the yellow filter can slightly enhance contrast in the sky, but I also think to remember that it can help to prevent blownhighlights. Can you conform this?
The original MM if you go over the info is just gone. Not like most raw files where it can be a little hot and you can pull it back , it's just not there in the original MM. You do get used to exposing like you would say Kodachrome where you are better being a little under to the left instead of to the right. I don't think the yellow filter keeps you from blowing highlights but the post I linked you to says it helps you get the best out of the original MM sensor and IIRC the is per Leica.
Lovely gourds!
Sekonic has software that will identify the exposure required to avoid blowing highlights. You have to feed their software exposures taken of their gray scale using their upper end meter. Sounds kind of involved but not too bad.
When I went thru their drill on my CCD MM, I discovered under-exposing by just over 1 stop was suggested. So when I use a hand held meter, I set the ISO on the meter at 800... while the ISO on the camera is left at it's native ISO of 360. Works.
Don't know if that helps, but there it is. 1) Does confirm that the CCD MM sensor is not immune to blown highlights. 2) Gives you a metric data point and place to start.