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"It's a Leica Thing"
- Thread starter Lloyd
- Start date
Lloyd
Active member
My father purchased the IIIG (then a IIIc) new in Germany in 1946. He handed it down to me (I first started using it in 1968), and that was the beginning of an obsession. Oh, I've dallied with Nikon (which I've owned many of since acquiring my first in 1972), Pentax, Olympus, Canon and Minolta (just to name the 35mm cameras), and I still have 3 Nikons and 2 Canons today, but nothing has ever approached my passion for that little rangefinder, and that magnificent glass.
Yes, it's a chronic condition, and I stopped looking for a cure long ago.
Yes, it's a chronic condition, and I stopped looking for a cure long ago.
Lloyd
Active member
Easy to see why!! Thanks for sharing!:salute:
bensonga
Well-known member
Love the look of these cameras folks!
Ok, ok....I know this is not much, but at least this is a start!
Here is the 50mm Summicron-R I bought from Erik Five a few months ago (it was in PERFECT condition, by the way...thanks Erik!).
I'm ashamed to admit that I haven't 1) used it much or 2) added anything more to my Leica arsenal. I guess at the very least, an R8 or R9 is required...although I was sort of holding out to see what the R10 looks like.
Gary
Alaska
Ok, ok....I know this is not much, but at least this is a start!
Here is the 50mm Summicron-R I bought from Erik Five a few months ago (it was in PERFECT condition, by the way...thanks Erik!).
I'm ashamed to admit that I haven't 1) used it much or 2) added anything more to my Leica arsenal. I guess at the very least, an R8 or R9 is required...although I was sort of holding out to see what the R10 looks like.
Gary
Alaska
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Lloyd
Active member
Lloyd
Active member
Beautiful piece of glass. It's a great start... hey, when you're in, you're in!!:thumbup:Love the look of these cameras folks!
Ok, ok....I know this is not much, but at least this is a start!
Here is the 50mm Summicron-R I bought from Erik Five a few months ago (it was in PERFECT condition, by the way...thanks Erik!).
I'm ashamed to admit that I haven't 1) used it much or 2) added anything more to my Leica arsenal. I guess at the very least, an R8 or R9 is required...although I was sort of holding out to see what the R10 looks like.
Gary
Alaska
Sadists
Gary - nice glass. Welcome to the water slide to poverty & obsession. R glass is bad enough. M-glass is a whole other matter.
Buy an adapter for a Canon or convert the sucker to Nikon (www.leitax.com). R8/9 are VERY nice, but watch for failed metering cells - and scratching of first 2-3 and last 2-3 frames on roll (stupid film pressure 'slide' vs roller) on well-used R8s or R9s. Best ergos of any 35mm camera I ever had - with the motor grip. Lacking the motor grip, the ergos suck.
Want nice? Grab a clean 80 Lux or 90/2 pre-AA and stick on a nice FF DSLR. I won't even get into the modern APOs, the latest 19/2.8 or 28/2.8. Sick, just sick.
That said, you could sell that cherry 50 to someone ... ;>
Gary - nice glass. Welcome to the water slide to poverty & obsession. R glass is bad enough. M-glass is a whole other matter.
Buy an adapter for a Canon or convert the sucker to Nikon (www.leitax.com). R8/9 are VERY nice, but watch for failed metering cells - and scratching of first 2-3 and last 2-3 frames on roll (stupid film pressure 'slide' vs roller) on well-used R8s or R9s. Best ergos of any 35mm camera I ever had - with the motor grip. Lacking the motor grip, the ergos suck.
Want nice? Grab a clean 80 Lux or 90/2 pre-AA and stick on a nice FF DSLR. I won't even get into the modern APOs, the latest 19/2.8 or 28/2.8. Sick, just sick.
That said, you could sell that cherry 50 to someone ... ;>
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You are a sick individual, buddyI know the feeling.
bensonga
Well-known member
I know from my experience with my Hasselblad V-system that this is indeed a slippery slope!
Erik had a Haoda adapter for Leica-R to Canon EOS which came with the lens, so I have no excuses for not giving it a good try on my Canon 40D....just haven't gotten out there to do it yet, beyond a few casual photos when the lens arrived here.
Something that puzzles me.....I've seen references to 2-CAM, 3-CAM, ROM lenses and I'm not sure what that means.
Gary
Alaska
N
nei1
Guest
Eric,youre an addict,a leica junkie,do you have a favourite?Helen..another beautiful,classy foto.
Erik Five
Member
Here is a explanation of the different kinds. The one you bought from me is a ROM.
http://leica.nemeng.com/001c.shtml
http://leica.nemeng.com/001c.shtml
I know from my experience with my Hasselblad V-system that this is indeed a slippery slope!
Erik had a Haoda adapter for Leica-R to Canon EOS which came with the lens, so I have no excuses for not giving it a good try on my Canon 40D....just haven't gotten out there to do it yet, beyond a few casual photos when the lens arrived here.
Something that puzzles me.....I've seen references to 2-CAM, 3-CAM, ROM lenses and I'm not sure what that means.
Gary
Alaska
Erik Five
Member
Something tells me that youre not the right person to say so. He he
You are a sick individual, buddy
As well, for mounting on a Canon, Nikon 2, 3 cam or ROM doesn't matter. If anything, on Nikon some of the older pre-ROM versions may be easier (see the leitax site for details).
If looking to save coin, go for 2-3 cam version. However, note that while some older 2-3 cam lenses have remained optically identical and just updated to ROM with the advent of the R8/9/DMR, some have also changed optically (almost always for the better).
The vast majority of 3 Cam lenses and their ROM variants are optically identical. It's when you go back to 2 cam or single cam that older variants may differ.
If you email Doug Herr http://www.wildlightphoto.com/ a member here (IIRc) and "telyt" on FM, he has a free password-access site that reviews most Leica R bodies and many lenses with real world-shooting differences between variants (vs . arcane collector minutiae) and has some nice 'sleeper' lens reccs.
Older ROM lenses an be chipped or converted to ROM for something like $300 by a Leica service center (doesn't have to go to Solms).
If looking to save coin, go for 2-3 cam version. However, note that while some older 2-3 cam lenses have remained optically identical and just updated to ROM with the advent of the R8/9/DMR, some have also changed optically (almost always for the better).
The vast majority of 3 Cam lenses and their ROM variants are optically identical. It's when you go back to 2 cam or single cam that older variants may differ.
If you email Doug Herr http://www.wildlightphoto.com/ a member here (IIRc) and "telyt" on FM, he has a free password-access site that reviews most Leica R bodies and many lenses with real world-shooting differences between variants (vs . arcane collector minutiae) and has some nice 'sleeper' lens reccs.
Older ROM lenses an be chipped or converted to ROM for something like $300 by a Leica service center (doesn't have to go to Solms).
Here is a explanation of the different kinds. The one you bought from me is a ROM.
http://leica.nemeng.com/001c.shtml
No idea - likely has been inspected or maybe a factory demo.
That said, the price is FAR too high. The R8 and R9 are virtually identical other than small differences such as an LCD counter on top plate andtweaks to make body more adaptable to DMR. Other than that they are same camera. A clean used R8 can be acquired for well under $1000, say $750-800.
When buying ask re: film scratching and if any issues with metering. If the latter, it can be an expensive fix as I understand most of mirror box needs to be replaced. My R8 had already had it's meter issue and been repaired.
Also strongly recommend looking at getting the motorgrip. Not the simple motor drive, but the motor grip with the additional shutter button on front. Transforms the ergos (can't stress that enough). Also the shutter buttons on the R8/9 and grip can get a little 'sticky' so check that well when buying.
On the scratching, most cameras use a thin roller near sprocket to pressure the film. On the R8/9, some idiot decided to use a 'smooth' plastic 'speed bump' instead.
It's located on the inside of the door and has a small roller that turns some silly black & white barber-pole-style indicator in a window to indicate that the film is advancing. Utterly useless.
It happens that 'smooth' is a relative thing. After lots of use some R8/9s see microscopic surface imperfections develop on the plastic of the speed-bump where it contacts the film.
As the film roll starts and finishes, it comes in contact with the plastic and you get 2-3 or more horizontal scratches across the first and last 2-3 frames of every roll.
I tried polishing my 'speed bump' to no avail and eventually stuck a small piece of a special slippery tape sold in carpentry stores such as Lee Valley for making jigs over the bump. That stopped it. Many folks remove the bump and black-out the window behind it or replace the bump with a proper $%^& roller from a trashed donor camera.
That said, the price is FAR too high. The R8 and R9 are virtually identical other than small differences such as an LCD counter on top plate andtweaks to make body more adaptable to DMR. Other than that they are same camera. A clean used R8 can be acquired for well under $1000, say $750-800.
When buying ask re: film scratching and if any issues with metering. If the latter, it can be an expensive fix as I understand most of mirror box needs to be replaced. My R8 had already had it's meter issue and been repaired.
Also strongly recommend looking at getting the motorgrip. Not the simple motor drive, but the motor grip with the additional shutter button on front. Transforms the ergos (can't stress that enough). Also the shutter buttons on the R8/9 and grip can get a little 'sticky' so check that well when buying.
On the scratching, most cameras use a thin roller near sprocket to pressure the film. On the R8/9, some idiot decided to use a 'smooth' plastic 'speed bump' instead.
It's located on the inside of the door and has a small roller that turns some silly black & white barber-pole-style indicator in a window to indicate that the film is advancing. Utterly useless.
It happens that 'smooth' is a relative thing. After lots of use some R8/9s see microscopic surface imperfections develop on the plastic of the speed-bump where it contacts the film.
As the film roll starts and finishes, it comes in contact with the plastic and you get 2-3 or more horizontal scratches across the first and last 2-3 frames of every roll.
I tried polishing my 'speed bump' to no avail and eventually stuck a small piece of a special slippery tape sold in carpentry stores such as Lee Valley for making jigs over the bump. That stopped it. Many folks remove the bump and black-out the window behind it or replace the bump with a proper $%^& roller from a trashed donor camera.