I like the last one.
It seems that rendering of the Nokton 35/1.4 is nice at all intermediate f-stops. This seems like the behavior of the pre-asph Summilux, which was lovely at intermediate f-stops, but I am told was sometimes bizarre at 1.4 and 2.0. My summicron-asph 35 has a flat image field (checked it with a newspaper on the wall) at 2.0, and bokeh which looks to me like coarse stage painting. So I'll stay with it for now. (Have to, since the initial supply of the CV35/1.4 is sold out.)
All the photos taken at f1.4 shots look better then my 2nd 35 1.4 aspherical black model I have a titanuim now this might rival .
Is that line doubling in the OOF areas on some of the first shots? Before I quit shooting my R-D1 my 40/2 leica did that I think but it was supposed to clean up when you stop down. This lens looks like a good optic for the money and has quite a bit of bite IMHO.
I am in Florida now but I can't ride until my leg heals fully from the VT fall on ice (walking). I have SC and MC versions of the 35/1.4 here but will be away from my usual testing setups until April. So, I'll do the review in two parts. Part one will be based primarily on field use and will be published while I'm here. Part two will include my usual comparative tests.
I'm working on the Daytona Wall pictures through Saturday and then people on beaches through the end of March.
That's right. The camera must be absolutely parallel (horizontally and vertically) to the (nearly flat) test subject. Then one needs to focus bracket in steps so small that they, initially, do not even move the RF window. As Scott knows, as an engineering professor, one must eliminate confounding variables in order to see a set of results clearly. I strongly recommend that people not worry too much about results that "seem" to be revealed by casual testing. The method often just isn't precise enough to tell us what we need.
I think he's right on the money with that advice.
Sorry to be late to the party with this thread. I've been resting/seeing doctors, then travelling, then shooting each day as long as my leg would tolerate. Its a rainy day now so I've got some time to catch up on forums and work on articles.
Last edited by Sean_Reid; 7th March 2008 at 08:03.
From Sean's review, i would conclude that the new CV is not a way for me to get one more useful stop than I presently enjoy with a 35/2.0-asph Summicron. He compares it with the 35/1.4-asph Summilux, which he had handy. I hope he will compare with the Summicron as well when he is back in the lab. Opnions differ on whether the 'cron or the 'lux is the sharper at f/2.0 or above (read Erwin Puts, for example).
It's too bad. I would have preferred to hear that Cosina had a real winner, if just to keep things lively. And it does look like a very enjoyable, tiny lens to shoot with.
Actually, I don't have a 35 Lux ASPH handy here but will do that testing when I get back to VT. The comparison lens I used for Part One was the CV 35/1.7. I did compare the Cron and the Lux in the 35s review last year.
It may be that later samples of the 35/1.4 do better. In any case, though, a good copy of the CV 35/2.5 is the greater sleeper of 35 mm RF lenses. My LTM version of that lens has been my primary lens this month.
Also, the 35/1.2 Nokton and 35/1.7 Ultron are both impressive in many ways. Those would be the less expensive ways for you to gain a bit of lens speed, Scott. Still, the 35 Lux ASPH is king of the fast 35s for me.
I'm with you here - I'm afraid the 'crons are the wallflowers of the leica lens lineup; if you're going for leica, go for the best and get the 'lux, but I have the 35, 50, 75 'crons, and they are all excellent and small, if I want to be really fast then I'll bung on a Noctilux and have done with it.
The 35 cron asph seems to me to be a lovely and businesslike lens.
Just this guy you know
But my objective was fast, light and wide, and it seems that only two at a time are possible, sometimes only one.
I was deliberating back and forth on what to do for my 35 and placed a deposit on the CV35 Nokton. I have the color skopar which is excellent and when a version IV cron recently turned up at a good price I picked it up. The CV is so inexpensive and so good and sooooo small I'm keeping both.
ooops. Forgot to write that I cancelled the Nokton order.
From Day 2 with my M8 (wasn't doing too well on the framing) the OOF areas are very smooth. Very hard to believe this is about a $210 lens.
Last edited by Terry; 1st April 2008 at 18:00.
Maggie, what the h$ll is that in your avatar??? (Or is it what I think it is???)
Terry, I thought you had a Cron version IV ??? You have TWO 35's ???
PS: GREAT shot, BTW!
My copy of the 35 1.4 appears very good right to the corners but of course I am not doing rigorous testing like Sean. Perhaps when he returns to Vermont Sean might like to borrow my copy to see how it compares to what he already has. Mine is an MRC by the way
There's a new meme making the rounds over at RFF: Sean's review of this lens is wrong because:
1)His testing methods are sloppy
2)His M8 is out of adjustment and it is a problem with the camera and not the lens
3)He is "pushing some agenda"
There are claims that the lens was "designed for film cameras," and as such, of course it won't work with the M8, which is terribly flawed, etc... Also, his reviews are supposedly incomplete because he doesn't test each lens on a film camera in addition to the M8.
Sounds like hooey to me. How could it be the camera, when the other six Voigtländer lenses I own all work perfectly with my M8?
My question about the lens is this: are we seeing a few lemons or does it have a fundamental design flaw?
I didn't see that. The focus bracketing process takes care of the focus question. I'm not sure if I want to dive into a Viper's pit or not but what is the link?
The MaggieO lab work on this lens (that was you, wasn't it? So long ago...) was quite sufficient to show that the CV35/1.4 offers curvature of field and focus shift, even though she didn't get the focus perfect at f/1.4 and I think used the same focus settings at the smaller apertures. That test got all four corners equally sharp, which indicates that the back of the camera was parallel to the target wall.
Read the Chris Weeks stream of consciousness review and I can see where the lens has appeal -- for dramatic effect that may not be for everyone. My M2 with its 1950s lenses (Canon 35/2 was the primary one) had the characteristic that any exposed light sources in the forward half sphere would contribute a lovely overall glow to the pictures. The CV35/1.4 instead gives impressive local flare and ghosting with intriguing shapes. So it is a step ahead of my Canon 35/2.0, but so would a pre-asph 35 Summilux have been. That is probably the proper comparison.
PS -- In some of the comments after the Weeks blog article I detected a self-incriminating tone of dismissal that I haven't heard since high school -- jocks vs the college-bound geeks. And best ignored.
Last edited by scott kirkpatrick; 6th April 2008 at 08:14.
Well, Chris' writing seems to be designed to inflame, so the responses really didn't surprise me.PS -- In some of the comments after the Weeks blog article I detected a self-incriminating tone of dismissal that I haven't heard since high school -- jocks vs the college-bound geeks.
Oh, and yeah- I did the focus shift (with soup cans) and brick wall test shots.
I'll volunteer. I have an M2 coming back from Sherry Krauter in a few weeks. Would love to try the CV35/1.4 on it.Maggie O in the viper pit (rff blog): I don't have a film M-mount camera, nor do I know anyone within 1200 miles who owns one.
Pages 4 and 5 of this thread may be of interest:
Too bad! I've been on the road all day (still am till later tonight) but I imagine someone must have tried to pull that thread into the toilet. Its a shame because there was some very good info in it and a good discussion between Tom A and myself. Bummer...
B/W conversion with . . . (JFI, Exposure)?
Maggie i love the images you have taken with the nokton I would be very satisfied with the purchase too!
I have just purchased a 35mm f1.2 nokton myself as well as a 15mm Heliar as I have been eyeing both those lenses since I bought my M8 a year ago
The only reason I didn't go for the 1.4 Nokton is I really wanted the faster lens and I'm trying to appease my Noctilux cravings.
I cannot get that lens out of my mind, I seriously think about it at least 3 times a day! I just can't justify the price tag
Thanks, Haya! (and welcome!)
I came to the conclusion that the Nokton Classic is kind of like an Alfa Romeo- it's a bit dodgy mechanically and you have to adjust to its way of doing things, but at the end of the day it's just so much fun and so full of character that you wind up loving it anyway. Even of you do think about selling it every other day.
The big f1.2 Nokton looks like an awesome lens and I was mightily tempted by it, but the Ultron 28mm is about as big a lens as I'm comfortable with on my M8, so I was really jazzed when the f1.4 was announced.
Yes Sean, your first 35mm review totally sold me on the lens I dunno why it took me so long to place the order, I knew I was going to buy it and the 15mm before I even got my hands on the M8
Welcome to a great community. Glad you are on board!
The CV 35/1.2 Nokton was the first lens I used on my M8 and I still enjoy it very much. Sean's review is what got me into it also. I did succumb to the 50/1.0 Noctilux siren, and that has become my most used lens to date. I love it wide open, and I also love how it handles stopped down also. It has a bit of reputation for arriving with some backfocus problems, but they are easily fixed if needed.
I was really looking forward to the CV 35/1.4 Nokton when folks here first started to talk about it, and I do like the much smaller size, but the 35/1.2 Nokton is still hard to beat for the images it draws. I think of it as my slightly "wider" Noctilux, and given the sensor crop compensation, it essentially is pretty close to a Noctilux on a film body.
I also got the CV 15/4.5 and have fixed it (coding and filter) to work on the M8. Still one of the best deals going for the images it produces. It is a bit slow, and I find shooting it around f6.3-8 to be about ideal.
You have a couple of gems....now, just find a way to snag a Noctilux.....at least for a couple weeks shooting. You will love what it does also.