Lights for MFD

[pcunite]

Help me choose lights for MFD.

I want everything on a light stand, no cords anywhere on the floor and not 9lb batterys. This is slow work so I don't need fast recycling.

I ONLY (or I won't go MFD yet) want to use my Bogen 3361 light stands with a flash head powered by a battery pack attached to the stand. For MFD it seems I need at least 400WS of power per head so my 580EX's won't do. I think the 580EX II is about 100ws.

I don't wanna pay for the Qflash X5DR with battery and power pack (400ws pack) it is $1,800 for one light!

Thus my Internet search has brought up the two following options:

* SunPak 622 Super with a battery pack
* kit from here: http://www.litelight.net

Does anyone have any suggestions?

 

[Jack]

I am going to move this to the lighting section because I think you'll get better response there

 

[Stuart Richardson]

You may want to take a look at this: http://www.adorama.com/HLIPK.html

It is a hensel monolight kit. It has 2 500ws monolights, 300w modeling light, 2 stands, case, softbox, umbrellas, basic 7" reflector. It is a great kit at a very good price for what you get. Hensel makes some really good flashes -- they are nice to use, very solidly built, consistent. If you pay a bit more, you can get the pro plus model, which has built in wireless transmitters. I just use pocket wizards. They have cords, but cords are a heck of a lot easier to deal with than batteries if you are in a studio -- no worrying about batteries being charged or going dead etc. Everything else is built into the head, so all you need is one cord going from the head to the outlet. That's it.

 

[pcunite]

If you are in a studio -- no worrying about batteries being charged or going dead etc. Everything else is built into the head, so all you need is one cord going from the head to the outlet. That's it.

I won't be in a studio and I really really refuse to use AC power strobes. But thanks for your suggestion anyways!

 

[LJL]

Well, the conditions you set sort of narrow your choices quite a bit. However, there are some things out there that may work. None are going to be really inexpensive, but some may be manageable.

Here is an option to look at:

http://tinyurl.com/637ss2

Basically, you get a monolight, battery pack, charger, sync cord, etc. You could discard the sync cord and replace with a PocketWizard unit and appropriate cable to allow you to work wirelessly. The battery unit is small and could set on the stand legs, or on a small platform, or somehow rigged to the stand to keep it off the floor and out of the way. The light output is 400Ws, if you go AC, or 320Ws if you go battery, and you will get up to 400 flashes per charge on lowest setting.

While not a perfect solution, a couple of these, plus PocketWizards may still cost less than any other higher output battery operated device.

LJ

 

[David K]

There's a blog or something called Strobist that you might find helpful... IIRC there's a lot of folks there that are looking for lightweight lighting options.

http://www.strobist.blogspot.com/

 

[LJL]

There is also the option of mounting multiple 580EX II units with the Canon 8-cell booster for each onto a bar shooting into an umbrella. That will increase your output, and you could still work wirelessly, having all the flash units controlled from the camera (STE-2 or using another 580EX II unit). I use that small 8-cell battery booster with my 580EX units and it works really well for both very fast recycle (not a primary concern you have now) and total number of flashes. Just bring a lot of batteries ;-)

LJ

 

[jerryreed]

I think that your needs would be nicely met with used pro-quality gear, or new gear from White Lightning, which can be nicely powered by a VAGABOND II (brand name from WL)portable battery pack. These 800 ws units sell for about the price of your canon flash and mate by design to the WL product line. Further, since you want not to be involved with lots of cables, these units are monolights.

If color is more critical than price it is hard to beat Broncolor, and these units can be found on eBay from time to time. I use these lights and the Broncolor light modifiers in art reproduction, and find them to be excellent for what I do.

HTH,

Jerry

 

[pcunite]

I am looking for a light weight setup that is not $1,800. This looks good using the SunPak 622.

 

[David K]

That setup looks like it meets your specifications but it certainly looks limiting. When you consider the cost of an MF back it's kind of nice to be able to use it for a variety of things. Lately I find myself using a ringlight with soft light reflector quite often. The versatility of the pro lighting kits is something to consider.

 

[jerryreed]

Here are a few things that you may want to consider, while you are defining your lighting needs and are reviewing alternative solutions. The SunPack will not provide you with modeling lights. The Flash for equal dollars is 3 stops less in light output than WL. The Umbrella light modifier is quite limiting in how and where the light can be placed relative subject. For the most part, you will likely find that while it may be useful as a fill light when placed behind the camera position, when used as a main or key light the variation in looks that you will be capable of achieving with this one light modifier may limit where you can take your work emotionally-dramatically.

Jerry

 

[pcunite]

Thanks to all following this thread. How do you guys feel about the following kit? It is a Norman 200B converted to 400ws.

The power pack, battery, charger, head, and bulb all for $650!!

http://www.litelight.net/litelight_custom_conversions_Nm200B.htm

 

[Ben Rubinstein]

How about the Lumedyne's? Small lights with a smallish battery that screws onto the light stand. I have a friend whose a PJ, he has a couple of them that he's been using for over 10 years on location.