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Eli Quadra vs. Profoto AcuteB

ocarlo

Member
greets once again,
coming up to a buying decision: a smaller light to go with my two Ranger RX.
Lighter, handholdable on a boom with a 27in Deep Octa.
I want to be able to use this as a main light outdoors, and have seen enough users pix to know I kind kinda subdue sun a bit. In any case, I have the Rangers.

1. I hate the Rangers giving you only 30sec of modeling light. Any Quadra users can speak about the LED modeling light? Does it stay on permanently? Bright enough to focus on the eyes while indoor studio?

2. Profoto AcuteB - can it take a Skyport receiver?
Any issues with mixing the Profoto 600B with two Elinchrom Ranger RX?
I can only imagine something to do with flash durations....

I am considering the AcuteB, despite being more expensive because:
1. its 600ws
2. I hear the modeling light is pretty bright, and can stay on.
3. I'm curious about how Profoto light looks...

While either of the two would be nice as a RangerRX-less option for backpacking, its not my main consideration. If something is important enough to shoot, I'll hire assistants to carry the load.

I got a week to decide...any thoughts gratefully appreciated...
 

Dustbak

Member
Yes, you can trigger the AcuteB with a skyport (you have to use the universal receiver). It also makes sense to get the AcuteAir and trigger the Ranger with an AirSync.

It can all be done but you are pointing at what I believe is the achilles heel of all these systems, eg. the differences in wireless trigger systems.

The LED pilot light of the Quadra can stay on and works fairly long. There are users that use the Quadra for video. I have never cared for the modelling light enough to put it through the paces.

The modelling light of the Acute is pretty bright. Bright enough to focus.

This image is done with an Acute plus Mola Demi and grid (at 30degrees celsius on the hottest and brightest day of the year sofar :)); http://media.fotoapparatuur.nl/IG/79633.jpg

The Acute with the standard glass dome is about 500degrees warmer in Kelvin than my Ranger was. You could get another dome to cope with that but I doubt you will really notice the difference. Flash duration is fairly similar between the 2, where the Ranger (& Quadra) have a slight edge over the Acute. They are all really fast though.

You know what I think :) I have recently changed to Profoto completely. Both my Quadra sets have been sold BTW.

Did another shoot on the beach today, I feel the Acute can cope with stuff like sand and abuse much better than the Quadra. I still hate getting sand everywhere...
 

ocarlo

Member
Hi Dustbak,
thanks, and for the image as well - nice strong mood coming out of the lighting.
I already have two Ranger RX Speed AS and 4 A heads - so I guess going Skyport all the way makes sense.

Roughly, the Quadra one head kit is cheaper than the new Lithium AcuteB kit by about US800. My thinking is:go for the Acute's extra 200W and especially, brighter LED (focusing with my eyesight is now an issue, and I'm not that advanced in age!).
The Lithium battery's bigger charge and longer life is certainly a nice add-on.
Certainly, this is why I hesitated on your obviously good deal on your Quadras...

I suppose I also should investigate the Profoto quality of light for myself, and this would be a not too intensive way of doing it.
I intend to use the Acute B as my main light (handheld on a boom, with a 27in. Deep Octa), as I shoot all location, and use the Rangers as background light.

Guess I've talked myself into it...many thanks again...
PS: as per your last statement - so the Quadra doesn't share the same toughness with dust and sand as the Ranger RX?
 

Dustbak

Member
No the Ranger RX is definitely more rugged and more weather sealed than the Quadra. Another advantage of the Acute is the possibility to use the Elinchrom modifiers on your Profoto head via an adapter.

I think the Rotalux softbox system is more pleasant to use than the Profoto system. Actually the Deep Octa 100cm, the Deep Octa 70cm & the Rotalux 135cm are basically the only Elinchrom things I have kept.

The material of the Profoto boxes is thicker & sturdier than the Elinchrom boxes but the Rotalux system with the Elinchrom container bags is nicer than what Profoto uses.
 

ocarlo

Member
just one last thing, if I may.
not being lazy, just that internet connection here in this part of Africa's really dodgy.

I'm with you on the Deep Octas - but I don't recall anything like egsshell crates or anything to narrow the light beam, or cut it up. I wish there was also a way to flag off the spread, w/c I could improvise with black card of blackwrap on the 27in Deep Octa..
Basically, I like the softbox effect, or crispness, of the Octa, but want to narrow the falloff to just the subject...

any suggestions from your experience?
many thanks again...
 

Dustbak

Member
Lighttools makes egg crates for the Elinchrom Octas. They are not cheap but from what I have been told by people that have used them they are of excellent quality.
 

johnnygoesdigital

New member
Hi Ocarlo,
I also considered the Profoto portable options, but decided on the Hensel 1200 lithium. They also have a 600 lithium that allows for 2 lights to be used on both units. For me that was the deciding factor. The weather sealing is fantastic, it's lightweight and can be carried all day using a boom pole. The EH mini heads are truly light weight and with the mains adapter can be used as a studio unit. I just did a shoot with the Hensel beauty dish on a camera car rig, and must say, that the way modifiers attach to the EH mini heads is very nice.
 
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Giorgio

Member
Hello to all,
The Acute B2 AirS is my current flavour du jour! I love it. I was using a Ranger RX for the last year but It just got too heavy! One Ranger + One head + one Battery + Pocket wizards + cords Etc will make a case seriously HEAVY!
Hey I love Eli, but sometimes I have to work alone. On those days, I just get lazy and take the speed lights. BAD BEHAVIOR!
The B2 is light, the battery weighs very little, the light works great and Eli makes an adapter to Profoto. I switched and now I take the B2 everywhere. The light is a little warmer, and I am getting back to harder lighting techniques.
It's a journey, make it yours.

 

ocarlo

Member
Hi Giorgio,
thanks for the input. I am indeed halfway in the door, and just need to get Stateside in a few days. The Lithium battery is new so I don't expect to see anyone selling used for a while.
If I may, how's the modelling light for you? Is it much brighter than the Ranger's?
How do you trigger bothe Eli and AcuteB?
Just came off a shoot with my Rangers in a dark storehouse, and its really irritating
how fudgy the Skyport button to turn on the modelling light is. I often end up adding more power and walking to the pack to reset it.
Kinda weird I guess that my main consideration is a modelling light for focus.
cheers.
 

ocarlo

Member
Hi Johnny,
I chose not to think about Hensel. its bad enough having to dip one's toe into
another system.
For the same reason, the cost was not justifiable yet.
I imagine the AcuteB can also run off mains power.
thanks for the thought, though. I'll probably still end up giving it a thought
when I walk into Adorama. cheers.
 

Dustbak

Member
You do know that there currently is an offer of an AcuteB2Air with a free head (in the form of a Kit that also comes with a bag & Airsync)? It ends at the 31st of July.
 

johnnygoesdigital

New member
Hi Ocarlo,

Those are good points. I had many Hensel modifiers, so that in fact, did sway my decision a tad. The Profoto is a fantastic light with really good support and rental studios. I think when using mains power you get substantially more modeling light (watts) too. The way Profoto modifiers attach is strong and reliable and obviously, adapters for the deep octa.
 

rem

New member
Johnnny, I have also the Porty L1200 and love the design and also the heads (Pro Mini with 650W Modeling light). But I have some issues with the power setting. For example: When I set 4.0 on the Geni and measure f 4,0 on the light meter, then I have to go to 5.6 instead of 5.0 (10 x 1/10f) to become f5,6 (6/10f to much)... Do you have a light meter? Could you check it for me? Is your more precise? Thanks! rem :)
 

dseelig

Member
IWAS THINKING FO GOING PROFOTO Till I talked tot he repair guys at Flash Clinic. Who told me that the parts for profoto are expensive and support goes away way too fast for older equipment.
 

johnnygoesdigital

New member
Johnnny, I have also the Porty L1200 and love the design and also the heads (Pro Mini with 650W Modeling light). But I have some issues with the power setting. For example: When I set 4.0 on the Geni and measure f 4,0 on the light meter, then I have to go to 5.6 instead of 5.0 (10 x 1/10f) to become f5,6 (6/10f to much)... Do you have a light meter? Could you check it for me? Is your more precise? Thanks! rem :)
Hi rem,

Yes, I'll check on that. Were you using your reading on "spot", when taking the measurement?
 

rem

New member
Hi Johnny, I measured the flash with the whit calotte from the Sekonic 358, from subject against the light. Not a spotmeasure...
Thanks Johnny and greetings from Berlin, rem
 

johnnygoesdigital

New member
Hi rem,

First, I would try taking a measurement from a particular scene with your light meter. Remember that at 4.0 on the L1200 equals 18 J or joules, which is the amount of energy expended and not an F stop reading - also the lowest power setting for the L1200.

Take a measurement with a set ISO and shutter speed, using your particular set-up. Let's say you get 5.6 using an incident reading on your meter, without changing anything other than the light output, press the double arrow button to increase the power by 1 f stop (double arrow increases 1 f stop and single arrow increases by 1/10 f stop.) Check your meter to indicate a 1 f stop increase in power to f/8.0. In other words, use whatever setting and reading as a base and adjust from there. You should get accurate results with known variables.
 

rem

New member
Yes Johnny, thats what I made, just with the 1/10 increases. When I switched from 4 to 5, then I have only 1/2 f more, instead of one. Now, in about 2 weeks they change the Porty and the Expert D 1000 (another failure). The limit what Hensel say is a tolerance from 2/10 f.
lg, rem
 

rem

New member
Johnny, they change the (my) Porty L1200 unit with another one, where the spec should be ok (max. 2/10 f difference in Power setting).
rem
 
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