I'm presented with an interesting challenge... shooting figure studies of a young woman who's rather overweight.
She used to be rather slim, and is still quite pretty. I did some nice figure work with her a few years ago.
But she put on a lot of weight when she was pregnant a couple of years back and hasn't dropped any of it. :angry:
Now she wants to do some updated figure studies.
Any suggestions?
- Leigh
Hi Leigh. This is a very good question and worthy of some studied response for photographers wishing to present their clients in the most positive manner.
As a wedding and portrait photographer for decades, this issue comes up more often than not. Most people are not models, and the number one quip I hear from women is "can you make me look slimmer?" While often said in jest, they actually mean it. Men tend to be more conscience of balding and double chins.
One thing we have to be aware of is the degree of sensitivity each client has toward their weight and over-all physical appearance. Some "plus sized" models are comfortable with who they are, and others aren't … some so much so that they are camera shy because of it. Pre-production discussions can be revealing and help provide hints on the subject … i.e., wardrobe, location, posing, etc. Often a client's "self-image" is better than reality, and we have to figure that out ahead of time, and act accordingly.
Like with any portrait, we have a number of "tools" to affect the outcome. Each subject is different, so we have to use those tools the help us solve specific issues. Since no one is "perfect" (even super-models), it is up to us to identify which techniques to employ and to what degree.
Leigh, you may already know these things, but since you asked I'll share my experiences with you and leave it to you to take what you will.
In addition to rapport between photographer and subject there are: Wardrobe; Posing; Lighting, Focal Length; Angle of Shooting; Post Production.
Obviously, darker solids for wardrobe choices can provide a slimming effect. Some Plus Sized women look better in empire waisted clothing. Horizontal patterns do not help, where vertical patterns sometimes can. Pre-shoot wardrobe discussions are very important, and if possible choices on the day of the shoot can help a lot.
Posing is a critical step. I always work with models to get them to be less stiff. When a client is tense, they tend to raise their shoulders and truncate their neck (I call it the "turtle effect"). They also tend to pull in their chin, and if they are a bit chunky this can result in more chins than a Chinese Phone Book … or even look like a pack of hot dogs. Double chins are extremely difficult to fix in post, so we have to be vigilant about it while shooting. Also, if the client is holding something (like flowers, or a prop of some sort), have them hold it lower to bring down the shoulders and elongate the torso … which is slimming.
How you have the client stand for full length shots is also a key tool. Study the client and watch out for angles that visually decreases their size. Each client is different so there are no pat answers … the key is looking at the client and have them move a bit to see what looks the most flattering for them.
There are a LOT of ads now featuring plus sized models … from Target to Macy's. They are worth studying, especially how they emphasize the playful sexness of the models. Many plus sized subjects are more sexy looking than gaunt, anorexic ones. It's all in the eye of the beholder. Have your subject tease the camera … you'll be amazed.
You didn't mention whether you use lighting or shoot ambient … in studio or outside. Either way, lighting can be used to sculpt a subject. Look up some lighting tutorials if necessary. The Profoto site has some good ones with a few fashion photographers offering suggestions in videos. In studio or outside, brighter backgrounds tend to be more slimming because they wrap light around the edges of the subject.
While most think a longer lens is a must for portrait work, I often find that a bit shorter lens to be more flattering for plus sized subject. I also have found that slightly shooting down on the subject can be very beneficial in slimming a client, … and when working closer up, it can place the emphasis on a stronger feature like their sexy hair or beautiful eyes.
When all is said and done with the shoot, we still have post work to tidy up any distracting "bulges or unsightly aspects". I am not shy about using the Liquify tool in photoshop to push in a bulge or trim the extra 10lbs the camera added … which a plus sized client certainly doesn't need. The trick here, as with any skin softening techniques, is moderation. Less is more. I work in layers so I can remove any retouching later if I think I went to far.
- Marc
