H4D with new "True Focus/Absolute Position Lock" feature

[PeterA]

oh thats very interesting..

 

[docmoore]

I just read an interesting tid-bit on another forum dedicated to Hasselblad. Evidently a photographer on that forum ordered the new focus upgrade for an existing 39 meg camera.

If that is true ... it is a big deal since I wouldn't sell off my existing H3D-II/39 just upgrade it. I will investigate if this true.

I do hope so but this is what Hasselblad rep recently posted on another thread.

""Will there be a H4D31/39 and will there be improved display on those too?

The 31 and 39 will remain as H3DII31 and H3DII39.



We do have a trade in program where you can turn in a H or V camera and Hasselblad digital magazine or any MF camera and 3rd party digital back.

Hasselblad Partner locator

Click on the state and you will see who your Hasselblad Regional Sales Manager is, feel free to contact them directly. You can also click on country and be shown the Hasselblad subsidiary and a list dealers.

I received confirmation today that both the H4D50 and H4D60 will have the new display.

Resolution 460,400
3 Inch, 24 bit, TFT display
There is an improvement in contrast and also when viewing the display at increased angles."

[Paul Claesson
Field Applications Specialist
Hasselblad USA]

Bob

 

[Paul Claesson Hasselblad]

I just read an interesting tid-bit on another forum dedicated to Hasselblad. Evidently a photographer on that forum ordered the new focus upgrade for an existing 39 meg camera.

If that is true ... it is a big deal since I wouldn't sell off my existing H3D-II/39 just upgrade it. I will investigate if this true.

Mark,

Hasselblad offers a Trade in Program. You can trade in your existing 16, 18, 22, 31, 39 mega-pixel back and V or H camera body or other medium format system and move to an H3DII50, H4D50, H3DII50MS, H4D50MS or H4D60.
I suggest consulting with your Hasselblad dealer or Hasselblad Regional Manager for pricing and options.

Paul Claesson
Hasselblad USA

 

[Elizabeth]

Most of the V series zeiss lenses come very close to the resolution of the H series lenses but are optimized differently. The H lenses are very similar in resolution to the new Phase One D lenses. It is true that the Schneider/Rodenstock lenses are better, resolve higher, especially at the edges.

The 120mm in particular may not be a great lens for digital. I haven't compared it to the H series 120mm version, but we have compared the H series 120mm to the Phase One 120mm and I was surprised at the difference. By inference, this perhaps sheds some light on the capability of the CFE 120mm/F4.

http://www.captureintegration.com/tests/phase-one/


Steve Hendrix

This is a very interesting test. Hasselblad has published tests comparing the Hasselblad V series lenses to the Hasselblad H series lenses. In the article they included the MTF charts for the lenses.

You can download the article here:
http://www.hasselblad.dk/downloads/technical-articles.aspx

I was wondering, do you have a link to where I can see the MTF charts for the new Mamiya/Phase One lenses? I would be very interested in seeing them.

 

[Steve Hendrix]

This is a very interesting test. Hasselblad has published tests comparing the Hasselblad V series lenses to the Hasselblad H series lenses. In the article they included the MTF charts for the lenses.

You can download the article here:
http://www.hasselblad.dk/downloads/technical-articles.aspx

I was wondering, do you have a link to where I can see the MTF charts for the new Mamiya/Phase One lenses? I would be very interested in seeing them.

Elizabeth - I'll see what I can come up with.

Thanks,
Steve

 

[johnnygoesdigital]

Hi,

I recently purchased a Hasselblad H3DII-31, I absolutely love this camera. It has made me appreciate what composing really is; every shot matters, everything in front of this camera is important.
I was a little miffed when I saw the price promotion go down $2000, but I've been intrigued by the TRUE FOCUS feature of the H4D 40 and find that could be very useful. Also, the extra pixels, longer exposures etc.

I've been offered my full purchase price for a trade up to H4D and would appreciate any thoughts from photographers that are familiar with these two systems.

 

[David K]

I made a simple (too simple ?) test tonight:
Facing a wall I measured the distance between me and the part of the wall just in front of me (this point being the center position of the frame) = 10 feet. Then I measured again between me (at the exact same position) to what would be the position of the corner of the frame on this wall. Distance increased by 3 inches.
So if I had to focus on the corner position and move to center to recompose, does that mean that the focus point would be 3 inches to far for a correct corner focus ?

In my example, and if I was using a 100mm lens at f5,6, it will also mean that I will also not have any OOF problem (15 inches DOF at this distance, normally 5 in front and 10 backwards, but here 5-3 = 2 in front and 13 backwards) so no big deal after all.

Your logic might be right but in my experience the difference between a tack sharp MF image and one that might be called acceptable is huge. The former jumps off the page and the best I can say about the latter is it might be acceptable, but not what I'm after. If I miss focus by 3" the image is probably headed to the trash bin. Also, if I'm not mistaken, the DOF guides are not all that accurate for digital backs and get less accurate as the MP increases.

 

[Jack]

Your logic might be right but in my experience the difference between a tack sharp MF image and one that might be called acceptable is huge. The former jumps off the page and the best I can say about the latter is it might be acceptable, but not what I'm after. If I miss focus by 3" the image is probably headed to the trash bin. Also, if I'm not mistaken, the DOF guides are not all that accurate for digital backs and get less accurate as the MP increases.

Exactly -- well said David.

 

[Paratom]

Now I wonder how you focus for example on an eye with the large focus points of MF-cameras?

The ones in my Nikon do work fine, but with my Hy6 I can just focus on the face (same was with the ZD and also with the S2 prototype I once had in my hands).

If the area the sensor focuses on is large (which I believe is the case with MF cameras this means one can only use the AF reliable for larger subjects which include some "flat" areas to focus on.
If I focus with my Hy6 the marked AF-sensor area covers the whole face. So where will it focus? Nose or eyes?

Got my Hy6 back from Sinar, focus locks quite a bit better now, still I feel with a fast lens my eyes work better than the AF, at least when using fast lenses wide open.

Is the focus sensor area of the Hassy much smaller? Would be more important for me than the true focus feature.