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ALPA Question

GrahamWelland

Subscriber & Workshop Member
Dave,

How easy is the Alpa sync release to move between lenses when in the field? They seem nice but way too expensive to have one per lens for example (or rotate a couple between lenses?).
 

stephengilbert

Active member
Dave,

Any chance you could post a photo of the ALPA sync release "in action?" The ALPA photos are close ups that don't show the cable routing. (I assume the cable goes down from the little box, plugs into the PC socket in the shutter, and the continues around to the back.)

Thanks, Steve
 

dchew

Well-known member
Sure. Here are some images:
1. The system assembled around the lens (shown on a 70HR-W). You can route the cable over the top of the camera or continue around counterclockwise then under to the digital back. I used to route it over but now prefer around and under.


Regarding the sync parts themselves, here is the assembly. You can see the straight threads on the sync that screws into the shutter release:


Here is an image of it disassembled. What I do is remove the cable release by unscrewing the small step-shaped knurled piece and leave that on the cable release as shown. The sync stays on the lens when the camera goes in the bag. I only remove it when I swap lenses.


The bad part about this system is that you have to remove the sync each time you change lenses. Unless of course you pony up and buy one for each lens; yeah, not me. Some day I know I'm going to drop that thing in a river or over a cliff.

Aside from that it works really well in the field. It seems to be very forgiving with how fast or slow I trigger the release, and the cables are just the right length. My longest lens is a 150, and it easily reaches, yet doesn't flop around on my 43xl.

Dave
 

dchew

Well-known member
There is one other issue that may bother some people. I have not yet found a perfect way to route the cables. They tend to cover up something no matter how you do it. For example, the way I wrap it around it lays on the top of the HPF ring and it is at times hard to see the scale without pushing the cable out of the way.

I'm talking miner gripes though. I really like it. And maybe someone will chime in with a better way to route the cable or orient the lens.

Dave
 

cmb_

Subscriber & Workshop Member
Dave - what happens when you mount the lens 90 degrees in either direction or 180 degrees - the length of the cords is still OK, etc.?
 

dchew

Well-known member
Actually, orienting the lens "normally" is the most challenging when it comes to cable length. All the other three positions seem to be easier in regards to routing cables. Short lenses are the most challenging because cables can get in the way of controls and your view distance scale, shutter speed and f-stop. You just have to be a little creative in positioning the sync cable. Here are a few more images. Note in the second image I routed the cable down and under instead of over the top of the lens. This keeps cables out of the way but puts a tight radius on the cable that comes out of the pc connection and heads under the lens to the sync switch. That always concerned me, so I don't do it this way. There are of course many ways to route cables to your hearts content. YMMV.

Dave







 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Sure is. I has custom cables made at Paramount cords. Might want to look into shooter syncing cables
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Btw you can also use Arca Slide fix camera plates. I put a 32x32mm plate on my Cambo very small and looks and works great
 

dchew

Well-known member
egad, what a contraption!
It does look big because it mounts right on the shutter release. If I remember right it is not any bigger than the black box on the KaptureGroup trigger.


Btw you can also use Arca Slide fix camera plates. I put a 32x32mm plate on my Cambo very small and looks and works great
I have a smaller plate on the grip for rise/fall orientation, but I actually prefer the bigger plate on the bottom because it gives me something else to grab when rotating the camera. I do think the two plates need to be from the same company since different brands have slightly different dovetail sizes. The std Cube base is pretty finicky when it comes to plate sizes, and adjusting the base for a vertical plate vs. a different horizontal plate is a royal pain. The grip plate is from Kirk and I really like its size with the grip. So a Kirk-brand plate is on the bottom too.

Dave
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Yes I switched to Arca brand plates for all cams so I don't have to adjust the lever clamp any more. I use the slide fix on the Cambo and than a standard size Arca on the DF . Both plates work without any adjustments to the tripod lever clamp from Arca. This is really a nice setup for me now and my 35 kit has a universal Arca brand plate.
 

dchew

Well-known member
One other comment about disassembling the sync switch. When the whole thing is assembled you can grip and unscrew the knurled fitting between the stair-shaped cable release mount and the sync switch; that removes the whole thing from the lens as one piece. It requires a little more dexterity, but can certainly be done.

I do that if I'm already set up and need to switch lenses.

Dave
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
I know this may have just cost you money but seriously this is a great way to go and recommend it highly. Now the slide fix plates come in different sizes but still the same mounting setup , so you could get a bigger one for bottom and smaller for sides. Than the DF I use a standard size but it is for the mamiya bodies. Which have the pins in it so it don't twist.

I know such a enabler
 

GrahamWelland

Subscriber & Workshop Member
Here David this is the size I'm using but they have a 42x32 also which may fit the STC better.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/663108-REG/Arca_Swiss_802260_Slidefix_QR_Camera_Plate.html
I know this may have just cost you money but seriously this is a great way to go and recommend it highly. Now the slide fix plates come in different sizes but still the same mounting setup , so you could get a bigger one for bottom and smaller for sides. Than the DF I use a standard size but it is for the mamiya bodies. Which have the pins in it so it don't twist.
I recommend the RRS MPR-73 or Kirk PZ-130 which have an anti-twist bar or rear lip across them that really addresses the single biggest problem with the generic Arca (and other) plates. It is flush to the rear of the STC and locks it so that the plate / camera cannot rotate. Normally with a generic plate you can only address this by tightening the plate very tightly and even then they loosen. They always do. That's also why Mamiya put those index pin holes on the AF/DF bodies for that Arca AF/DF specific plate to lock in to.
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
My problem Graham is Kirk and RRS plates are wider in the mount and I have to adjust the lever clamp which is not something I want to . The lever clamp you should pick the plates for all cams so you don't have to make adjustments. Now the screw clamps you can mix and match since you just tighten down. It comes down to the lever clamp as it is fixed unless you mess with the silver knob adjustment. I don't like the screw down clamps so for me and the lever reason I choose one brand. Now you could do all RRS as well on all cams. So everything is the same. This is really aimed at Arca lever clamp users.
 

GrahamWelland

Subscriber & Workshop Member
Guy - yes having consistent plates IS a big deal with the lever clamps. I had to make that choice a while ago when I settled on all RRS plates for exactly the reason you cite. I had to swap out all of my Kirk & Acratech plates because they all had slightly different dimensions - a total pain in the a$$. The good news at least with the Arca lever clamp is that you can adjust it to suit the plates you decide on vs the RRS lever clamp with no adjustability which pretty much forces you to use RRS plates only.
 
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