the final print is the target. The camera is just a link in the chain of tools to create that target.th epoepl i dont understand are thoe who dont care about the camera just the print
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the final print is the target. The camera is just a link in the chain of tools to create that target.th epoepl i dont understand are thoe who dont care about the camera just the print
this is why me personally I added a P21+ alongside with my P45 instead of an A900 and some lenses.While others can say the gap between other formats and MF is closing ... it isn't even with-in a mile of being closed IMO. It was just that the Gap was so incredibly huge before. I don't mistake nice files from the M9, 1DsMKIII, D3X, or my Current Sony A900 as being anywhere in the same league as my Medium Format digital machine ... even with a 8X10 print ... let alone for some of the critical commercial work I do.
Frankly, I found that there is something profoundly disappointing about the IQ of everything else once you use a MFD ... or course that is IF IQ is what floats your boat.
Agreed it's "not a world apart" if the comparison is to the highest end, full frame, 25 meg current model of one ... and a crop frame, 18 meg discontinued model of the other. Still, the dynamic range and 16 bit color shows up when compared to a 12 bit A900 ... so, as you say, there is still an obvious enough difference as far as IQ is concerned.this is why me personally I added a P21+ alongside with my P45 instead of an A900 and some lenses.
To a limited extend I agree with you. Still... at base ISO the A900 with good glass (and there are some very good Minolta/Sony/Zeiss lenses) is not "nowhere near" a P21+. There is a difference. Of course. And it's obvious enough for me to take a P21+ over a A900 (beside other factors). But it's not a world of a difference. At least not with regard to every motif.
true... the comparision is not really balanced. However it's almost the same with a 35mm crop of the P45 (which is also not up to date but at base ISO still amazingly good).Agreed it's "not a world apart" if the comparison is to the highest end, full frame, 25 meg current model of one ... and a crop frame, 18 meg discontinued model of the other. Still, the dynamic range and 16 bit color shows up when compared to a 12 bit A900 ... so, as you say, there is still an obvious enough difference as far as IQ is concerned.
Anything past 120 days can be a lifetimeExtended warranties are a complete waste of money.:ROTFL::ROTFL::ROTFL:
Me tooWow Son,
I just feel like you sold me my own system another time :bugeyes:
My Hy6 focuses adequately in good light but in low light it can certainly hunt for focus. At it's best it doesn't compare to my Nikon D3 or the Canon pro bodies I've used in the past. I find the ability to manually focus varies widely from lens to lens. With the Rollei 110 f/2 Planar, for example, the image just pops into focus. I do not have metering problems with my copy of the Hy6, either with the prism or WLF. However, when I open the image in eXposure it appears to be underexposed as it's quite dark. This is easily adjusted in post (I use Lightroom these days) after the RAW files are converted in eXposure. Are you certain you're not assuming the files are underexposed because they show up dark?? By way of comparison, when I switch to the Contax 645 platform I have had significant exposure problems when using the WLF, but none while using the prism. I think it was Son who suggested that this was attributable to light leaking into the WLF. No such metering problems when shooting with WLF on the Hassy 203FE and, as far as the ability to manually focus, this is far and away the brightest and easiest to focus camera I've owned... and there's been a bunch2 questions: Does your Hy6 focus without hunting forth and back before locking? And how good does camera metering work for you? In my case I have to dial in anything between +.3 up to +1.5 and more sometimes still get underexposed images.
Son,The forces within us compete with each other from time to time. There is no war but only battles to win within ourselves.
Best Regards,
Son
David,My Hy6 focuses adequately in good light but in low light it can certainly hunt for focus. At it's best it doesn't compare to my Nikon D3 or the Canon pro bodies I've used in the past. I find the ability to manually focus varies widely from lens to lens. With the Rollei 110 f/2 Planar, for example, the image just pops into focus. I do not have metering problems with my copy of the Hy6, either with the prism or WLF. However, when I open the image in eXposure it appears to be underexposed as it's quite dark. This is easily adjusted in post (I use Lightroom these days) after the RAW files are converted in eXposure. Are you certain you're not assuming the files are underexposed because they show up dark?? By way of comparison, when I switch to the Contax 645 platform I have had significant exposure problems when using the WLF, but none while using the prism. I think it was Son who suggested that this was attributable to light leaking into the WLF. No such metering problems when shooting with WLF on the Hassy 203FE and, as far as the ability to manually focus, this is far and away the brightest and easiest to focus camera I've owned... and there's been a bunch
Maybe the deal with your family could be that 1 sunday per month or 1 sunday every 6 weeks is just for you... just for photography? I don't knowI really agree that I could/should go more often out with the main focus of photography and not with the idea to combine activity and photography..
so a very well thought out selection of gear. With regard to the capabilities of the gear. Not really with regard to the way you usually shoot... at least this is how I see it (of course no criticism here!).My decision was based on
a) my wish for a big/bright/interchangable viewfinder
b) in the beginning I just focused on maybe 2-3 smaller/lighter lenses like the 40/80/150 (but later I got inclined by the "monster-lenses" 110/2.0 and 180/2.8)
c) The 75LV is the back which was the best compromise IMO regarding noise-sensor size-flexibility (no micro lenses)-and price
d) if using WLF the rotating back made a lot of sense to me
e) I liked the rendering of the dalsa sensor as well as that of the Schneider lenses
f) I thought I would use fill flash more oftne but actually I dodnt so far
The decision for the Artec was driven by the thought that specially for doing T/S plus for focus accurancy a ground glass would really make sense (and I still believe it does). The Artec is not really heavy - the draw back is that you cant handhold it and it is wider.
As soon as you do use a griundglass the Artec should be much easier to use than a comparable camera.
Thomas- the Hy6 with the 80 isnt really that big & Heavy- however the 110 is big and heavy and the bad thing is its my favourite lens.so a very well thought out selection of gear. With regard to the capabilities of the gear. Not really with regard to the way you usually shoot... at least this is how I see it (of course no criticism here!).
A Hy6 with a 80mm feels like twice a camera like the Contax & 80mm.
The arTec and the WRS are not really equivalent though. Apart from the mentioned sliding back, which is pretty cool combined with the GG loupe of the arTec, there is the T&S. Even for simple landscape shots the tilt can be very useful.The arTec is more than twice the size of a Cambo WRS (however the WRS is not really lighter). The Rodenstock HR lenses are much bigger and heavier than the Digitars. Of course they provide one stop more light wide open. But they are bulkier.
I use a (fresnel) groundglass on the WRS all the time - either with the Cambo focussing hood or, for critical focussing, with a Rodenstock 6x loupe. That's fine! Sole drawback is you have to exchange the groundglass frame with the digiback for shooting (this is the beauty of a sliding back). IMO this is very doable if you don't shoot a high amount of variations of the same motif at one location. Usually I take much more time looking at the motiv (through a small viewfinder or just the camera interface plate) than for shooting. When I am ready - so when I know the composition (at least roughly) - I built up the camera, compose, shoot. So for this style of work an exchangable groundglass is quite okay. However sometimes I'd like to have a sliding back as well (especially when it's windy or when it's raining... you have to take care for the digiback here as you move it around with the sensor uncovered. At least for a short moment. So sometimes it's a bit fiddly).
I keep feeling that the Hy6 + 5 lenses might be less of a camera than the Hy6 + 2 lenses. For any given situation, not all lenses are valid choices, or one might at least decide to restrict the choice. I think that a small backpack or satchel with a light tripod and the Hy6 and 2 lenses is the best way to do mountains, probably 40+150 or so. For portraits and people, the 110 or 180 are much better.A Hy6 with a 80mm feels like twice a camera like the Contax & 80mm.
The Body is smaller than the S2!You got my interested to also have a look at a Contax and its lenses and see how big/small it is.
Actually I use the prism more often than the WLF. But in the cases I use the WLF I really don't want to miss it. I always use the pop up loupe for magnification. As I focus with split image screens this is really very easy and very accurate (unless you recompose, of course). The split image screen gives me that extra accuracy the AF might miss. You have to adjust the screen carefully to the film plane of the digiback first, of course ...Thomas have you tried a finder instead of the WLF. Myself i focus better with a finder when I shot Hassy years ago I found using a WLF a much harder focusing tool without that little magnifier that popped up.
There are TS lens panels for the Cambo available now. So this is not really a difference anymore.Apart from the mentioned sliding back, which is pretty cool combined with the GG loupe of the arTec, there is the T&S. Even for simple landscape shots the tilt can be very useful.