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I took the plunge, I purchased a H3D-39
- Thread starter kuau
- Start date
P. Chong
Well-known member
I took the plunge too...thanks to the advice of Marc (fotografz) and David Glover. I got a H3D-39 with the 28, 35, 50-110, 80 and two extension rings (26 + 52), film back. On its way to me now.
The 28 and 35 are very close to each other in terms of focal lengths (the seller gave me a deal to take the whole system, and he first bought the 35 and added the 28 later). But I guess the 35 is useful for the film back, which will be kind of a backup or for black and white.
I guess the zoom is also kind of a duplicate, but I read from here and elsewhere it is a superb piece of glass...only heavy, and some have quality issues. I tire of heavy lenses...the Canon 70-200/2.8 L IS was one of the first lenses I sold, way before putting up the whole 1d system and L lenses for sale to move to Hassy. Though, I tolerated the 85L for a long time.
I guess I'll use both the 35 and 50-110 for a while, to see how I like them. I might trade the 35 for a 120 macro, as I do a lot of macro of watches. And perhaps the zoom for a 210 and a 1.7x later for portraits. What do you guys think?
The 28 and 35 are very close to each other in terms of focal lengths (the seller gave me a deal to take the whole system, and he first bought the 35 and added the 28 later). But I guess the 35 is useful for the film back, which will be kind of a backup or for black and white.
I guess the zoom is also kind of a duplicate, but I read from here and elsewhere it is a superb piece of glass...only heavy, and some have quality issues. I tire of heavy lenses...the Canon 70-200/2.8 L IS was one of the first lenses I sold, way before putting up the whole 1d system and L lenses for sale to move to Hassy. Though, I tolerated the 85L for a long time.
I guess I'll use both the 35 and 50-110 for a while, to see how I like them. I might trade the 35 for a 120 macro, as I do a lot of macro of watches. And perhaps the zoom for a 210 and a 1.7x later for portraits. What do you guys think?
Yeah, once I got the 28, I never used the 35, so I'm selling it with my H3D-II/39.
The Zoom is optically great, but I'd never use it due to size. IMO, the lens to have is the 100/2.2.
The 120 Macro is stellar, and my most used lens in studio ... in fact it rarely if ever leaves the studio 'cause it's too big to lug around.
Generally, for most work I carry the 50, 100/2.2, and 210 and the 1.7X. the 100/2.2 + 1.7 = 151/3.7 and the 210 gives you 210/4 or
357/6.8.
-Marc
The Zoom is optically great, but I'd never use it due to size. IMO, the lens to have is the 100/2.2.
The 120 Macro is stellar, and my most used lens in studio ... in fact it rarely if ever leaves the studio 'cause it's too big to lug around.
Generally, for most work I carry the 50, 100/2.2, and 210 and the 1.7X. the 100/2.2 + 1.7 = 151/3.7 and the 210 gives you 210/4 or
357/6.8.
-Marc
kuau
Workshop Member
I finally got out today and got to use my h3d haven't had a chance to look at the files yet though. Yep the 50-110mm is a monster lens, but once out of my backpack and on the tripod on my new multiplex head all went well. My only problem right now is focusing. First the rubber eyecup keeps falling off wondering if anyone else has this problem. I am thinking about trying the other focusing screen with grid lines though i don't know if it will be any easier. I also shot with my 28 and 150mm both very nice and a lot lighter to handle then the 50-110mm. I will post some pictures tomorrow
Steven
Ps.. Posted with my iPad
Steven
Ps.. Posted with my iPad
kuau
Workshop Member
OK as promised.
Here is my 1st attempt with my H3D, Content I am not very happy with but at least I got a feel for the camera. I still need to do a lot of work in PP using Phocus I just made a few tweaks.
I used both my 50-110mm and my 28mm.
I was reading the thread on filters today. I myself almost always use a polarizer and I still like using a split grad, which I should have used at the water falls and also could have used a ND filter, the water fall pictures were taken mostly at 1 second F16 with the polarizer.
Oh well lots to learn I guess
Steven
Here is my 1st attempt with my H3D, Content I am not very happy with but at least I got a feel for the camera. I still need to do a lot of work in PP using Phocus I just made a few tweaks.
I used both my 50-110mm and my 28mm.
I was reading the thread on filters today. I myself almost always use a polarizer and I still like using a split grad, which I should have used at the water falls and also could have used a ND filter, the water fall pictures were taken mostly at 1 second F16 with the polarizer.
Oh well lots to learn I guess
Steven
Steve Hendrix
Well-known member
Hate to say it, Steven, but you're supposed to glue it. Glueing it back on will bring you to the level of Hasselblad technical service as I understand they do the exact same thing.
Just don't use too much...
Nice shots, by the way.
Steve
T
tetsrfun
Guest
the water fall pictures were taken mostly at 1 second F16 with the polarizer.
********
The waterfall is terrific, the DOF is amazing. For a few seconds, I couldn't figure out what was going on with the "blurry" piece of wood...then Ah..Ha.. it's bobbing in the water..
Steve
********
The waterfall is terrific, the DOF is amazing. For a few seconds, I couldn't figure out what was going on with the "blurry" piece of wood...then Ah..Ha.. it's bobbing in the water..
Steve
Great images Steven.
Can I ask how you are finding the H3D compared to your D3X, particularily regarding dynamic range?
The H3D is a couple of generations old for MFD while your D3x is the current king of the hill in 35 digital so your experience is valuable to those of us considering getting into medium format.
Also, do you think you will miss the nikon PC lenses?
Thanks,
Aaron.
Can I ask how you are finding the H3D compared to your D3X, particularily regarding dynamic range?
The H3D is a couple of generations old for MFD while your D3x is the current king of the hill in 35 digital so your experience is valuable to those of us considering getting into medium format.
Also, do you think you will miss the nikon PC lenses?
Thanks,
Aaron.
kuau
Workshop Member
Steve,
I guess you get what you pay for LOL,
Anyways I just ordered a new shorter version eye cup from Hasseblad parts for 35.00.
Keeping all things equal i thought 35 bucks was a good deal
Steven
I guess you get what you pay for LOL,
Anyways I just ordered a new shorter version eye cup from Hasseblad parts for 35.00.
Keeping all things equal i thought 35 bucks was a good deal
Steven
kuau
Workshop Member
Aaron, hard to say about the dynamic range, yet the sunset photos I thought came out pretty well for a single shot.
Shooting the D3x was such a pleasure, what a great camera, but to get the most out of it I found I was shooting the D3x as if it was MF, same exact setup manual focus, (yeah I miss live view for focusing) tripod, MLU, remote release etc.
For me, would I go out and buy a new MF system no way, unless I was a pro and made money with my camera, just way to expensive. I looked for over 8 months pondering wether to go MF and always came up against the $$$$ wall. When I found the H3D39 for 6500.00 I couldn't resist. So I took the plunge. After selling off all my Nikon Stuff, the conversion from 35mm FF to MF cost me about 1200.00 so for me I am happy.
For a while i was looking at the 22mp MF solution, but after giving it serious thought I felt if I were to make the jump I needed to go 39mp.
The million dollar question.... Am I happy, yep so far so good. Would I do it again for the price I paid yep, If it cost me another 5K probably not.
Do I miss my PC-E lenses.. SURE DO. I really liked using them. Maybe one day I can save up enough money and purchase the Hassy T/S adaptor.
In the mean time, I use my Multiflex / Cube knockoff and tilt my camera up and down.
Steven
Pretty impressive for your first efforts!!!
I'm in the same boat as you were, except I'm shooting copious amounts of film, not a D3X. I shoot mainly on a tripod, slowly and carefully, even though I'm dealing with people most of the time. I struggle with the idea that I could get a D3X (I already have a D700 and a few N coated lenses) or a digital MF system and I would actually use them in exactly the same way. For me, resolution is not the big issue, although I too think 31 - 40 meg is preferred if going to MFD as I print at 18x22.5" @ 360dpi often. It's not even the smoother tonal gradations, because lets face it, all well processed and exposed digital files from modern cameras are equal in that regard to scanned MF film. Most plainly put, I just like the look of MF that results from the bigger surface area of the neg or sensor. I would worry that a 35mm D3X (which I'd use in 4x5 crop mode, because I prefer the ratio) would just not "do it" for me. It's such a subjective thing and unfortunately brings up discussions about the laws of diminishing returns. Once you've gone big it's hard to go back...
I'm in the same boat as you were, except I'm shooting copious amounts of film, not a D3X. I shoot mainly on a tripod, slowly and carefully, even though I'm dealing with people most of the time. I struggle with the idea that I could get a D3X (I already have a D700 and a few N coated lenses) or a digital MF system and I would actually use them in exactly the same way. For me, resolution is not the big issue, although I too think 31 - 40 meg is preferred if going to MFD as I print at 18x22.5" @ 360dpi often. It's not even the smoother tonal gradations, because lets face it, all well processed and exposed digital files from modern cameras are equal in that regard to scanned MF film. Most plainly put, I just like the look of MF that results from the bigger surface area of the neg or sensor. I would worry that a 35mm D3X (which I'd use in 4x5 crop mode, because I prefer the ratio) would just not "do it" for me. It's such a subjective thing and unfortunately brings up discussions about the laws of diminishing returns. Once you've gone big it's hard to go back...
kuau
Workshop Member
Yep loving mine, A must have for holding my H3D with the huge 50-110mm lens
kuau
Workshop Member
The problem with the D3x, is that to get the most out of it exact shooting technique is a must and also you must have the "BEST" lenses for it, or might as well go with the D3s, much more forgiving camera.
So for me i figured if I am going to go through all this effort might as well go MF at the right price of course and go to the gym more often so I can carry my "heavier" backpack now. :ROTFL:
Thanks for the detailed reply Steven.
What your saying about the D3x makes sense, I guess it's no more work to shoot the H3d so if the price is right, why not!
Your sunset shot certainly would lead one to think the dynamic range is damned good but that may be just that you know know a thing or two about exposure
Are you manually focusing? It would be interesting to hear your thoughts as you get to use the system more.
Thanks again,
Aaron
kuau
Workshop Member
Aaron,
My biggest challenge right now is the focusing. Since i only manual focus with the H3D there is focus confirm which I used but of course its only in the center. Though the finder is much bigger then the D3X to me it's harder to see through but that's probably just me.
I probably need to adjust the eye dyopter better
Steven
My biggest challenge right now is the focusing. Since i only manual focus with the H3D there is focus confirm which I used but of course its only in the center. Though the finder is much bigger then the D3X to me it's harder to see through but that's probably just me.
I probably need to adjust the eye dyopter better
Steven
kuau
Workshop Member
Jeff your right, It should be easier. I need some better contact lenses :bugeyes:
Just made an appointment at the eye doctors
steven