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H4D/40 First Impressions

mark1958

Member
This is still the one issue that keeps me from selling all my 35mm DSLR equipment. I tried to use my H3DII in Iceland to shoot some puffins and it was quite difficult and no real keepers. I was using the 210 and/or 210+1.7x.

Mark, in regular shooting conditions with decent light, I haven't noticed any AF speed difference over the H3D-II so far. I do see a difference in lower light due to the brighter, white AF assist light.

I am going to experiment with assigning the regular AF function (not True Focus) to one of the other grip buttons and see if it gains lock-on speed. We did that when experimenting with the Leica S2 and it made quite a difference.

-Marc
 

fotografz

Well-known member
This is still the one issue that keeps me from selling all my 35mm DSLR equipment. I tried to use my H3DII in Iceland to shoot some puffins and it was quite difficult and no real keepers. I was using the 210 and/or 210+1.7x.
Actually, I since learned that I had set one of the custom functions incorrectly for my use. I had the True Focus on all the time ... I set it back and the AF seems quicker now.

BUT, I hear you about some applications. There are certain things I'll keep an eye on as far as 35mm DSLR verses this H4D/40 ... like how it does with moving targets especially with longer lenses. That has yet TBD.

-Marc
 

docmoore

Subscriber and Workshop Member
HaHaHa!

Guy,

I leave my CF Gitzo Monopod at home and carry a Bogen Aluminum Monopod when traveling for this purpose.


Bob
 

fotografz

Well-known member
This is still the one issue that keeps me from selling all my 35mm DSLR equipment. I tried to use my H3DII in Iceland to shoot some puffins and it was quite difficult and no real keepers. I was using the 210 and/or 210+1.7x.
I just realized that you said you used the 210/4 with a 1.7X ... that makes the lens a 357mm with max aperture f/6.8. While that combo will still AF, I'd think it would be problematic depending on the type and level of light you are shooting in.

Maybe you should have kept the 300/4.5 :D

-Marc
 
T

tetsrfun

Guest
AKA Rodney King Special.

Off-color, I know. Delete if you feel it's inappropriate...
The Mag-light is still more politically correct than the ax handle that a friend carries in his car and had to use one night.

Steve
 

etrigan63

Active member
Flashlights aside, I was surprised to hear that LR3b2 can read H4D-40 files. I have a few from a hands-on with the folks from Hotwire Digital (they just opened offices in Florida) and was surprised how well they rendered. As soon as i get the LR3b2 flickr module working properly, i will have some samples to add to the mix.
 

mark1958

Member
Yes the AF is slowed with the 1.7x. I think the 300 is great as an optic.. but with that type of focal length--- tend to go with the canon... but i did not have that with me in Iceland. I probably would not have carried the 300 with me to Iceland if i still owned it :)

I just realized that you said you used the 210/4 with a 1.7X ... that makes the lens a 357mm with max aperture f/6.8. While that combo will still AF, I'd think it would be problematic depending on the type and level of light you are shooting in.

Maybe you should have kept the 300/4.5 :D

-Marc
 
T

tetsrfun

Guest
Flashlights aside, I was surprised to hear that LR3b2 can read H4D-40 files. I have a few from a hands-on with the folks from Hotwire Digital (they just opened offices in Florida) and was surprised how well they rendered. As soon as i get the LR3b2 flickr module working properly, i will have some samples to add to the mix.
That is my impression also. With just a casual comparison, the renders of CFV files with LR3b2 seem to be much closer to Phocus than LR2.6.

Steve
 

ptomsu

Workshop Member
Marc,

first Congratulations on your new gear !!!!

I really like the high ISO performance of the H4D40 as well as the TF function. Both promises seem to be really working. Would I not be in landscape photography I would switch in a second ;)

Having said that I think that the H4D50 would be a good one for me to go, the difference to the H4D60 is not much in MP, but the price is and also of course availability.

I myself have no experience with the 300 but my Hasselblad rep keeps telling me that this is a GREAT lens and I know I can trust him. So for wildlife I would add the 150 and 300 to my 28 and 100.

One remark: I am exclusively using Phocus with all my Hasselblad files but I understand that there are some situations which might make the use of LR or Aperture a more convenient choice. But I am 100% sure not IQ wise.
 

docmoore

Subscriber and Workshop Member
One remark: I am exclusively using Phocus with all my Hasselblad files but I understand that there are some situations which might make the use of LR or Aperture a more convenient choice. But I am 100% sure not IQ wise.
In this instance you may be wrong....

As a long time user of Phocus and one who has dabbled with LR since its inception I too preferred Phocus for almost all of my H3D II 39 files. Played around with ACR for convenience when in a hurry by browsing in Adobe Bridge then opening a few to see if they merited extra work.

With the advent of LR Beta 3.2 there has been a massive change in how the program handles interpretation and development of raw files. Noticed this with a number of moderately noisy high iso Sony and Canon files initially then began a major revisit of many older files...all of which were much improved with LR Beta 3.2 whether the initial raw developer was C1, ACR, NX2, RPP, or Phocus. Not just high iso files but even H3DII files at ISO 50.

Last week I shot a number of landscapes with the H3DII and a 210 and 50-110 zoom. A couple of the captures were shot into backlight areas where although flare was not a problem, at least with these files, there was a significant amount of high contrast moire and fringing...unable to correct it with any amount of work in Phocus or ACR/PS4....lowered but still there. Today I imported those files into LR Beta 3.2 with 1:1 Previews and in two minutes had complete correction of the offending color fringing and moire with very little loss of contrast or sharpness. I edited the files after development in LR with an export to PS4 and was stunned at the results. In addition I am seeing a more natural looking capture sharpening than anything I have done prior to this point.

The new H3D profile in LR B3.2 seems very accurate with regards to color...something I have not seen from Adobe's canned profiles for this camera prior to this point.

YMMV but I will be using this program until one of the others comes up with something better. Convenience aside it is now my preferred raw converter....

Now where ARE all of those old raw files?:ROTFL:

Bob
 
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