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H2 or Hy6???

gogopix

Subscriber
all good comments. I actually left out the MAIN reason for adding this system AF!.

Yes the Contax has it, but it is slow and can select the wrong object just at the wrong time.

How is the speed and accuracy of the AF? There SHOULD be a spot focus option-if not, how can a FF system ever get it right? With the Contax I trick it by locking focus and then re-composing. Rather have it work like the newer Nikon systems, that seem to have ESP!

I am usually a brand name person, but there comes a limit; is the Hassey H3D like a Rolls or a MB. I have driven the latter since 1973-never disappointed. Tried a Rolls and it screamed for a chaufeur! (it also felt like a boat. Too over the top. The HB doesnt seem over the top. Maybe it is a MB to the Hy6 "BMW"

In which case I will get the HB :ROTFL:

No seriously, the Sinar/Hy6 is the one right now to beat.

I make decisions in a very simple way; I select an option that seems pretty good, that I could live with (that means just about EVERY MF system, incl Kodak and Mamiya).

Thyen I look for a reasonable, though not lomg period (say a month). If nothing BETTER comes along I buy. If not the dominating system takes over for another month.

It is called "Dominance decicion making" Old stuff in consulting. Really, just common sense, but takes longer than a straight 'head-to-heat'

oops typo....or is it, maybe we really have head to HEAT decisions here :D

thx all, it really is helping

Victor

PS Just so you do not think this is for naught, I actually bought the R9/DMR system sight unseen based on discussions on the " NOT TO BE MENTIONED" siute ;) by Guy. Same for M8. When you buy quality and experienced people talk it up (and dont have a piece of the action) it works.

so, now I need a reason to say "H3D is better than Hy6/sinar 74LV. The latter is the current decision;

ok you H3D owners, why should I move H3D into trhe top position?
 

Graham Mitchell

New member
With the Sinar system, I can use any camera with only the incremental investment of only a few adapters. I now think of a camera body as only a kind of adapter, and sometimes only use it for one lens in its whole system. For example, if you need a 28mm, shoot with a Mamiya, if you need a 300/2.8 shoot with the Hasselblad 203, if you need 1/1000 flash sync shoot with the Hy6, ...etc.... all with the same digital back.
Exactly! I hope to add the Mamiya and the 28mm some day. It feels great to have that freedom.
 

David Klepacki

New member
Victor, I think you will find all of the technical information and viewpoints on the various systems already posted in this forum. I hope you are not stirring the pot here just for entertainment value, but I'll give it to you anyway :)

What if we were talking about wine? Would you be content with only drinking an outstanding Cabernet each day, from the same winery (i.e., fixed mount system)? It may be one of the finest wines in the world and satisfy you in most ways ..... but, maybe one wine does not do it all for you and you desire to experience the subtlties of a good Nebbiolo on one day, a Chianti on another day, a Pinot Noir on another day, etc. (i.e., non-fixed mount system). You decide the limits to your freedom.
 
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gogopix

Subscriber
Victor, I think you will find all of the technical information and viewpoints on the various systems already posted in this forum. I hope you are not stirring the pot here just for entertainment value, but I'll give it to you anyway :)

What if we were talking about wine? Would you be content with only drinking an outstanding Cabernet each day, from the same winery (i.e., fixed mount system)? It may be one of the finest wines in the world and satisfy you in most ways ..... but, maybe one wine does not do it all for you and you desire to experience the subtlties of a good Nebbiolo on one day, a Chianti on another day, a Pinot Noir on another day, etc. (i.e., non-fixed mount system). You decide the limits to your freedom.
Believe me david, this is NOT entertaining. The thought of making a $30k mistake kills that pretty quickly.

I think there is some info here, but scattered, and often for different purposes; Specifically, I wanted to hit straight on the two rather damning statements; Hy6 is plasticky and H3D (Fuji) glass is flat.

Woody's images and Your comments have directly hit these. Very helpful, and more pointed than a lot of the posturing I have seen.

I don't buy the analogy though. I DO drink C.S. from France every day (never white) can't stand the cloying CA femented grape juice (has a universal metalic oily taste TO ME :D; and yes, some are drinkanble-they are the exceptions that prove the rule!)

More like a cars I would say. I lease my cars (MB) and get to try new features every three years. But always MB and usually a sedan (although my CL63 has been made and will be in a few weeks, when I turn in my CLS55 of 39 months)

I do not buy. I consider the camera and back upgrade programs similar in concept; pick a winning line, but get the chance to move with the technology. If I had to pick one model of MB and upgrade (say an E550) I would happily do it rather than moving through Chevy, Ford, even jaguar and BMW.

Variety for its own sake can be exciting, but quality dominates for me. And , my style. There is a fine line, but most of us just express preferences rather than just being bigots or snobs. I'm not saying I want to know what others think is best, what I try to ask is specific questions like "does it have a solid feel" or "is it really too heavy for travel" (THAT may be the H3D killer for me, but I will test drive it anyway.)

I go thru these explanations because, unlike yourself and a few others who really jump in and help, :salute: I usually don't get the info I am looking for, and maybe I shouldnt expect it. However, it has worked so far; I have Leica R and M systems and lenses that have not disappointed! (thanks to Guy, Robert, David, Woody etc.)

anyway, thx for the imput. I look for info; Maybe others WILL be entertained though.

Regards
Victor
 

fotografz

Well-known member
all good comments. I actually left out the MAIN reason for adding this system AF!.

Yes the Contax has it, but it is slow and can select the wrong object just at the wrong time.

How is the speed and accuracy of the AF? There SHOULD be a spot focus option-if not, how can a FF system ever get it right? With the Contax I trick it by locking focus and then re-composing. Rather have it work like the newer Nikon systems, that seem to have ESP!

I am usually a brand name person, but there comes a limit; is the Hassey H3D like a Rolls or a MB. I have driven the latter since 1973-never disappointed. Tried a Rolls and it screamed for a chaufeur! (it also felt like a boat. Too over the top. The HB doesnt seem over the top. Maybe it is a MB to the Hy6 "BMW"

In which case I will get the HB :ROTFL:

No seriously, the Sinar/Hy6 is the one right now to beat.

I make decisions in a very simple way; I select an option that seems pretty good, that I could live with (that means just about EVERY MF system, incl Kodak and Mamiya).

Thyen I look for a reasonable, though not lomg period (say a month). If nothing BETTER comes along I buy. If not the dominating system takes over for another month.

It is called "Dominance decicion making" Old stuff in consulting. Really, just common sense, but takes longer than a straight 'head-to-heat'

oops typo....or is it, maybe we really have head to HEAT decisions here :D

thx all, it really is helping

Victor

PS Just so you do not think this is for naught, I actually bought the R9/DMR system sight unseen based on discussions on the " NOT TO BE MENTIONED" siute ;) by Guy. Same for M8. When you buy quality and experienced people talk it up (and dont have a piece of the action) it works.

so, now I need a reason to say "H3D is better than Hy6/sinar 74LV. The latter is the current decision;

ok you H3D owners, why should I move H3D into trhe top position?
Based on your criteria and car analogies, I wouldn't think of convincing you otherwise. Best of luck with your Hy6.
 

gogopix

Subscriber
Because the H3 is heavier than the Hy6? or because the AF is slower? I thought the H3 AF was pretty fast. Right now the only reason the H3 isnt at the top is because many H3 users say it IS a handful, and could be tiring handheld. If the H3 is really better as a studio and tripot device, then it is properly in second plce. I would love a small, AF non retrofocus system with 39MP and under 4lbs; no such animal
yet! :D

But I couldn't fault the H3D on IQ; the statement that the Fuji lenses are flat seems off the mark, per your and Woody Campbell's impressive images. But I have already had THREE rotator cuff operations, I have disk stenosis and am not looking forward to a trek with 30lbs of gear:thumbdown:
 

Rethmeier

New member
I have a Hy6 and made sure that all my lenses are NON-AF.
If you want fast and good AF,get a Nikon,Canon etc.
The only negative part of the Hy6 is no 29mm (H3)(28.9 to be precise)
Actually after using the DAC with Flexcolor the 29 will be more like a 31-32.
So the 35 that's in the making for the Hy6 is not so bad after all.
However I doubt I'll get one.
Cheers,
Willem.

N.B the 3inch display of the H3DII is very sexy though!
 

David K

Workshop Member
Victor,
I think your car analogy is a good one in certain respects. I doubt you would buy a new car without a test drive. The cost of either of these systems is significantly more than the Leica DMR and M8. I would encourage you to try them out even if it means traveling to do so. Sometimes something just feels right to one person and not to another. Marc loves his Hassy gear and, based on his posted images, there's no question that it delivers the goods. I really do not expect the images from my new Sinar back to be any better than what I was getting with my Aptus 75S (after all, it's the same sensor). For me the decision to switch was based primarily on a desire to have one back for multiple camera platforms. The other David K clearly has the same priorities. Having both the Aptus and the ZD back wasn't working for me and having two high end backs is simply out of the question financially.
 

Woody Campbell

Workshop Member
Because the H3 is heavier than the Hy6? or because the AF is slower? I thought the H3 AF was pretty fast. Right now the only reason the H3 isnt at the top is because many H3 users say it IS a handful, and could be tiring handheld. If the H3 is really better as a studio and tripot device, then it is properly in second plce. I would love a small, AF non retrofocus system with 39MP and under 4lbs; no such animal
yet! :D

But I couldn't fault the H3D on IQ; the statement that the Fuji lenses are flat seems off the mark, per your and Woody Campbell's impressive images. But I have already had THREE rotator cuff operations, I have disk stenosis and am not looking forward to a trek with 30lbs of gear:thumbdown:
I don't hold myself out as an expert on the H3 after a month's experience. The controls are easy if you have experience with a 1Ds or similar SLR, but that's not the issue. There is a significant learning curve in terms of how to get the best out of any digital camera, particularly systems that are this complex, and more particularly because not all shooting situations are a sunny spring day in Central Park. On the subject of focusing the H3 is reasonably fast but don't expect it to act like a Nikon D3 - the small market for specialized MF gear won't support the R&D that Nikon devoted to the D3.

On the "handful" issue, design a mf system on a blank sheet of paper. Start with a 36x49 sensor, add mirror box big enough to illuminate a 36x49 focusing screen, add a prism finder with a 100% view (Canon saves significant size and weight by using 92% or whatever it is), design a lens mount that is big enough to avoid vignetting and throw in a specialized computer to support the imager chip. You can't save weight on materials by using plastic. So you end up with a handful - all of these cameras are big and heavy. The real questions is do the ergonomics of a particular system work for you.

Each of the systems discussed here produces outstanding results. You'll adapt to the quirks of whatever system you select.
 

fotografz

Well-known member
Okay, let's get real. Everyone is aligning positives as generalized statements to support their preferences and purchased decisions.

Each person has a list of priorities, and each comes to the party with previous experiences that formed their level of comfort with how a piece of gear meets their needs. All I can do is share my preferences and why.

One of your priorities is system weight. To some degree it's also one of mine since I use the H3D-II/39 for weddings and commercial location work ... and also have a bad "sports" shoulder. The raw weight of the Hy6 is 4.7lbs (Camera/WLF/Back/80mm), verses the H3D at 5lbs ... 0.3 lb. more, not bad for an all metal camera.

However, the mitigating factor to that is that the H3D comes with a prism finder and the Hy6 is equipped with a WLF ... add a Hy6 prism finder (which has to cover 6X6) and not only is the Hy6 larger, it is probably close to the same weight, or more. OR remove the prism finder on the H and replace it with the H3 WLF. So, it depends on your shooting preferences ... mine is the use of the prism finder, with occasional use of the WLF ... which was how I used a Contax 645 that formed my preference.

The other mitigating factor of weight is how the weight is distributed. The H camera is a well balanced, compact camera with an integrated grip that I use with a hand strap that I find easy on the wrist since it's tight to the body to reduce fulcrum torque. This also allows me to let the camera just hang at my side when not in use. It is actually easier to carry at an 8 hour wedding than my Contax 645 was.

Much has been made about the Hy6 rotating back. Excellent feature! ... 645 cameras don't require this, not the Contax 645, Mamiya 645 nor the H3D 645. Again, it comes down to how you tend to shoot ... in fast paced work a 645 can be rotated just like any DSLR from landscape to portrait without removing the camera from your eye. I prefer this, and am fully comfortable with it, because of previous experience, and the type of really fast paced work I also do.

AF speed/accuracy. In the test Irakly and I did between a Leaf AFi and my H3D/39 (before Hyper focus was added to the H3D-II), it was a wash ...(actually the H beat the AFi, but it was splitting hairs.)

In place of the old OLED LCD, the H3D-II features a 3", 24 bit, 234,000 pixel TFT type display that IS fully viewable in bright light and quite color correct, which for fast paced commercial location and wedding work is helpful to me. You don't know what you're missing until you have it. I have not experienced the new 2.5" display of the Sinar, and don't know what resolution it is, or if it's a TFT ... but that is good news IMO.

All H cameras come with an additional battery grip for using conventional CR123 batteries available at any hardware store. A real positive if you've ever been in the field or areas where recharging is not immediately possible. Untethered power can be provided via the 1850 mAH grip, the CR-123 grip, or via the Lithium battery on a 1000 shot FW800 Image Bank.

Finally, I prefer the larger 39 meg Kodak sensor that Hasselblad and Phase One uses to the 33 meg Dalsa that Sinar and Leaf uses. Again this is based on direct experience using a H3D-II/39 side-by-side with a Leaf Aptus 75s ... shooting with the same Zeiss optics. The Kodak 39 meg sensor resolution is 5412 X 7212 verses Dalsa resolution of 6668 X 4992. The resulting work file from a H3D-II/39 is a 234 meg 48 bit Tiff to the Sinar's 190 meg. Yet, the Hasselblad 3F file format appears to be more efficient at lossless compression since the size is 50 meg to the Sinar 64 meg. More shots per storage device.

Now THAT is splitting hairs for sure, since any of these MF backs make fab files. However, I selected the 39 meg back because I do BIG work, and often need every pixel of resolution I can get. This is especially true when using a back on a View Camera with tilts and shifts and digital APO Schneider or Rodenstock lenses.

These are preferences built on need. If I wanted/needed a back that fit 5 different MF cameras I'd select a Hasselblad CF back or a Sinar back with their muti-adapter system ... but I don't. I want the most integrated, effecient system I can get. The versatility I want and need comes from the choice of lenses already at my disposal ... every Zeiss CFi,CFE focal length made, and a full range of Digital view camera lenses.

All that said, I AM in the market for a Sinar back to use on my 203FE ... purely an induldgence on my part, not a need in any way. Besides, a back-up ain't all bad, and if I get a second back it needn't be what I already have ;)
 
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Graham Mitchell

New member
Much has been made about the Hy6 rotating back. Excellent feature! ... 645 cameras don't require this, not the Contax 645, Mamiya 645 nor the H3D 645. Again, it comes down to how you tend to shoot ...
There are two points to be made:
- some people prefer not to rotate the entire camera, me included. It is more convenient, adn the controls are always in the same place. If you are using polarizing or grad filters or maybe even sticking gobos on the side of the camera, you don't need to reposition anything if you just rotate the back.
- this is the only current camera with a waist-level finder, and the wlf requires a rotating back to work in both orientations. These things go hand in hand.
 

gogopix

Subscriber
Well, Mark, that is interesting; the weight is about 20% more than the C645 yet I find the C quite comfortable. In fact the system that is most uncomfortable is an old Koda SLRc next the R9.

I will have a chance to try both. This gives me the right items to check for, and either one for HB V lenses.

Kurland has a used H3D for under 19k! The H3D II is 29k (almost 30k) Is the II worth it? (actually long term I would always go with latest, except with the new MS, there is an incentive to go for that for landscape and architure. )

I hope others are finding this as useful as I. For the first time I am seeing facts over ride emotion.

So, off to Philly and some testing! (Maybe at my daughter's graduation from Wharton.)

regards
Victor
 
T

thsinar

Guest
Dear Marc,

some precisions from my side.

First: the Sinar Hy6 IS NOT a camera made out of plastic.

The body and structure is made of aluminum and covered with a rubberized plastic. As such, the Sinar Hy6 is as much a metal camera as the H3D.

Okay, let's get real.
One of your priorities is system weight. To some degree it's also one of mine since I use the H3D-II/39 for weddings and commercial location work ... and also have a bad "sports" shoulder. The raw weight of the Hy6 is 4.7lbs (Camera/WLF/Back/80mm), verses the H3D at 5lbs ... 0.3 lb. more, not bad for an all metal camera.

However, the mitigating factor to that is that the H3D comes with a prism finder and the Hy6 is equipped with a WLF ... add a Hy6 prism finder (which has to cover 6X6) and not only is the Hy6 larger, it is probably close to the same weight, or more. OR remove the prism finder on the H and replace it with the H3 WLF. So, it depends on your shooting preferences ... mine is the use of the prism finder, with occasional use of the WLF ... which was how I used a Contax 645 that formed my preference.
I have done my own weighting and here the results for the Sinar Hy6:

- Sinar Hy6 body + eMotion 75 back + Schneider 80mm AFD + WLF + incl. Battery = 4.36 lbs (1.98 Kg), and not 4.70 as mentioned

- Sinar Hy6 body + eMotion 75 back + Schneider 80mm AFD + 90° Finder + incl. battery = 5.18 lbs (2.35 Kg)

I did weight it myself 10 minutes ago.

As for the H3D II (according to Hasselblad's specifications), with 90° finder, 80mm HC, battery = 5.05 lbs (2,290 Kg)

So I guess, for 2 BOTH METAL cameras, that's pretty much the same weight, with the Hy6's finder a bit heavier due to its covering of 6x6.

The other mitigating factor of weight is how the weight is distributed. The H camera is a well balanced, compact camera with an integrated grip that I use with a hand strap that I find easy on the wrist since it's tight to the body to reduce fulcrum torque. This also allows me to let the camera just hang at my side when not in use. It is actually easier to carry at an 8 hour wedding than my Contax 645 was.
The feeling and impression from users of the Sinar Hy6 is the same: that this Hy6 camera is very well-balanced, more over easy to adjust the hand-grip when changing the shooting angle or when having to carry the camera.

AF speed/accuracy. In the test Irakly and I did between a Leaf AFi and my H3D/39 (before Hyper focus was added to the H3D-II), it was a wash ...(actually the H beat the AFi, but it was splitting hairs.)
This may be your own test with the camera you had, but is not what I have experienced and get reported from users comparing the 2 cameras.

In place of the old OLED LCD, the H3D-II features a 3", 24 bit, 234,000 pixel TFT type display that IS fully viewable in bright light and quite color correct, which for fast paced commercial location and wedding work is helpful to me. You don't know what you're missing until you have it. I have not experienced the new 2.5" display of the Sinar, and don't know what resolution it is, or if it's a TFT ... but that is good news IMO.
Why are you claiming the OLED technology being an old one? Actually it is a much newer one.
This being said: the eMotion back do have now a TFT 2.5" bright display, instead of a 2.2" OLED previously.

Finally, I prefer the larger 39 meg Kodak sensor that Hasselblad and Phase One uses to the 33 meg Dalsa that Sinar and Leaf uses. Again this is based on direct experience using a H3D-II/39 side-by-side with a Leaf Aptus 75s ... shooting with the same Zeiss optics. The Kodak 39 meg sensor resolution is 5412 X 7212 verses Dalsa resolution of 6668 X 4992. The resulting work file from a H3D-II/39 is a 234 meg 48 bit Tiff to the Sinar's 190 meg. Yet, the Hasselblad 3F file format appears to be more efficient at lossless compression since the size is 50 meg to the Sinar 64 meg. More shots per storage device.
The Sinarback eMotion can do a "lossless" compression as well: instead of the original size of 64 MB (UN-compressed), the file size can be reduced to 32 MB ---> double the amount of images can be stored. That is also more shots per storage device.

Now I have also to add some details about the storage device: the eMotion backs do have an internal hard-state memory of 6 GB for the eMotion 75 and 4 GB for the eMotion 54 IN ADDITION to the normal CF card storage.

IMO a lot more flexibility when it comes to storage capacity.

Now THAT is splitting hairs for sure, since any of these MF backs make fab files. However, I selected the 39 meg back because I do BIG work, and often need every pixel of resolution I can get. This is especially true when using a back on a View Camera with tilts and shifts and digital APO Schneider or Rodenstock lenses.

;)
It is, "splitting hairs", definitively. Please Marc, do not take this as me willing to contradict your findings. I just wanted to give some details and little corrections. I can here link to another photographer owing a H3D 39 since 18 months and having tried the Sinar Hy6 - e75 for 1 month. Here his report:

http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=24926

Read post 4

A different way to see things.

Best regards,
Thierry
 

fotografz

Well-known member
There are two points to be made:
- some people prefer not to rotate the entire camera, me included. It is more convenient, adn the controls are always in the same place. If you are using polarizing or grad filters or maybe even sticking gobos on the side of the camera, you don't need to reposition anything if you just rotate the back.
- this is the only current camera with a waist-level finder, and the wlf requires a rotating back to work in both orientations. These things go hand in hand.
How is it more convenient?

You have to remove the camera from your eye to rotate the back. Maybe okay in the studio at a slower pace, but for fast fashion or candid work, and event or street work, you have to stop to rotate, bring it back to your eye, and reorient vour view ... it's the fundamental difference between a 645, and 6X6 with a 645 sensor, and has nothing to do with Camera brands or what back is mounted.

Not knocking your preference, it obviously works for you ... doesn't for me, and all the different types of work I shoot. For that reason alone, the Hy6 is skewed toward being a studio camera to me ... a nice replacement for my RZ ... but I'd never carry a Hy6 to a wedding, or to shoot MF street work which IMO and experience is better suited to a 645 like a Contax, Mamya or H645.

And you are correct that if a Waist Level Finder is your preference, then a Hy6 is more versatile for shooting portrait mode than a Contax 645 or H645 with a Waist Level Finder that is stuck in landscape mode.

BTW, It's a no brainer to rotate a pola filter or grad when changing orientation ... which can be done without removing the 645 camera from your eye... do it all the time. And like with most 645s, the controls on an H camera stay right at your finger tips in either mode. Most everything can done without taking the camera from your eye.

Jeeze, I guess I am getting dragged into a pissing contest ... which is really stupid because it all has to do with aligning what you need with what's available verses what you can afford :(
 
T

thsinar

Guest
Marc,

that's exactly the feeling I have sometimes!

Take it easy, we understand each other.

:)

Thierry


Jeeze, I guess I am getting dragged into a pissing contest ... which is really stupid because it all has to do with aligning what you need with what's available verses what you can afford :(
 
T

thsinar

Guest
EDITED for Corrections and Additions:

It happens that I have got now opportunity to compare between the previous 2.2" OLED with the new 2.5" CFT eMotion display:

I can confirm that colour rendition and contrast are much improved, But the other huge difference is the resolution in the images, which is very impressive on the new display. And the bigger size does give a completely different feeling.
All in all, I am positively impressed by the improvements.

Thierry
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Yes, Billy, the new display is a TFT one.

It is impossible to get 2.5" OLED ones for such small quantities as the MF is.

I did not yet got the time to test it, but my colleagues tell me that the contrast, colours and brightness are better.

Thierry

Thierry, does 2.5" TFT mean it's not OLED?
How is it under bright outdoor light, and is its color accurate compared with what's captured?
 
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gogopix

Subscriber
Thanks Thierry,

That was quite informative as well.

here is my respoinse there (I guess I have the copyright so I do this :) )

quote from LL..

".........Great feedback; hits all the key issues. From the input here is seems a tossup. I did not realize the H2F with CF back would take the 28mm HCD. If true, that makes a huge difference.

I will have a chance to try both (maybe the three) systems in a few weeks. This kind of investment takes time.

I currently use, and will continue with the C645/P45+ It works quite well (AE and focus confirm as well) with HB V lenses, from 30mm to 500/8! that I have

The H3d and Hy6 are both quite close. I do not anticipate using a rotating back, but I certainly am interested in a 48x48 square sensor in the future. That may tip me to the Hy6

We will see.........."

What are the prospects Thierry for a 48x48 sensor BTW?

regards
Victor
 

gogopix

Subscriber
How is it more convenient?


Jeeze, I guess I am getting dragged into a pissing contest ... which is really stupid because it all has to do with aligning what you need with what's available verses what you can afford :(
I hope this thread isnt read that way. your comments marc have been spot on, O hope others appreciate the directness of your comments, and the7y are experience based from what I have seen.


yet we all have our own priorities; here are some other considerations:

the H3D has shown terrific innovation in a short time, and the Fuji glass is growing on me (after all, it was Kyocera that executed the Zeiss designs)

The Hy6 rotating for me is a non issue. becomes true ZERO issue if there is a 48x48 sensor on the horizon. I for one like the flexibility of the square and with pixels to burn who care that you need to crop.

So, as a "glass person' it may come down to whether I want access to the HC glass (and good AF) or to german glass (though I guess I could use an Alpa for schneider optics and Rollei.

Marc, why do you say Hy6 is more studio (that I do not have, except for a few backdrops and moble Profoto monos) while you see the H3D as a good reportage camera (others have mentioned this as well. But I dont see where they differ

regards
Victor
 
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