Advice about digital close up setup

[Jack]

But who am I to give advise ?

One problem with forums is we all tend to self-reference whenever we give advice; it's natural . The more difficult part is to try and help solve the problem for the OP while staying inside their parameters, when you would choose an alternate path for yourself...

 

[shlomi]

My decision is 4x5 with V back and Rodenstock lens.
I found a bargain on a sliding adapter, now I just need to find a low price V back - I think that will be possible.

 

[T.Karma]

One problem with forums is we all tend to self-reference whenever we give advice; it's natural . The more difficult part is to try and help solve the problem for the OP while staying inside their parameters, when you would choose an alternate path for yourself...

Yes, for sure it is not easy.

 

[shlomi]

Why is P30 cheaper than P25?

Is it because of the 33x44mm area?
P30's seem to go for pretty low prices - maybe it is something I should consider?

"Wide angle and large
format tilt and swing
positions may produce
a coloorcast in the
image." (P30)

Why?

 

[Ebe]

P30 has micro lens.

 

[Professional]

It is long thread to read now, so i will read it later another time, i also interested to do some closeups and production photography but the problem will be the sharpness and the DOF and colors to get accurate as final result, i was not sure if i can use 35mm digital or MF or go for view camera, i saw many Jewelry and watches shots that i like but i don't know what they did use and how.
Once i was in Hasselblad and Profoto event in my area and they were presenting H4D-50MS [or maybe H3DII-50MS] and the results were amazing as details and sharpness, but i forgot which lens also didn't see how many lights was used.

 

[P. Chong]

here are a couple of watch shots I took this afternoon...I was due to be on my way to Germany, but the Icelandic volcano had its own ideas, so am at home...

Shot with the HC 4/80 and either 52mm tube on its own or in combination with 28mm. H3d-39 on a Manfrotto macro focussing rail, on Photoclam Multiflex head on Gitzo 3541LS, lighting is one Profoto 600R, on umbrella, but light diffused by transluscent perspex sheet between umbrella and subject.

and a 100% crop.

I am also quite keen to see how the HC 4/120 macro compares.

 

[Lars]

A question - you state that DOF is too limited. One way to get more DOF is to move to a smaller sensor, whereas moving up to a MFDB will actually give you less DOF. Just for reference, have you tried shooting with a compact camera with a tiny sensor?

 

[shlomi]

By the principles of physics you are correct.
But in a real world situation other factor weigh in.

I've compared 24x36 @f/22 to 36x48 @f/32.
Of course when you compare f/22 to f/22 the DOF will be smaller in the large sensor - but not by that much.
But the large sensor gives results which I considered acceptable at f/32 when the small sensor absolute limit is f/22.
And the f/32 on 35x48 gave much better DOF than f/22 on 24x36 and also better sharpness.

Why that is is a good question.
Perhaps it's the star digital lens from Mamiya that made the difference.
I believe at the end of the day a lens optimized and well made for the specific application is the biggest difference maker.
Also a larger pixel size may have an effect is lessening diffraction.
My experience with sensors smaller than 24x36 has not been great and I am very reluctant to go there.

 

[fotografz]

By the principles of physics you are correct.
But in a real world situation other factor weigh in.

I've compared 24x36 @f/22 to 36x48 @f/32.
Of course when you compare f/22 to f/22 the DOF will be smaller in the large sensor - but not by that much.
But the large sensor gives results which I considered acceptable at f/32 when the small sensor absolute limit is f/22.
And the f/32 on 35x48 gave much better DOF than f/22 on 24x36 and also better sharpness.

Why that is is a good question.
Perhaps it's the star digital lens from Mamiya that made the difference.
I believe at the end of the day a lens optimized and well made for the specific application is the biggest difference maker.
Also a larger pixel size may have an effect is lessening diffraction.
My experience with sensors smaller than 24x36 has not been great and I am very reluctant to go there.

One more time just to be irritating :ROTFL: ... MOVE BACK A LITTLE BIT!

These sensors are so big you can afford to move back a bit when needed and still have a capture area bigger than a 35mm ... AND they are CCD sensors, NOT CMOS sensors with varying degrees of AA filtration.

Marc

 

[Jack]

I've compared 24x36 @f/22 to 36x48 @f/32.

Comparing sensor sizes is irrelevant for DOF in your application. What you probably need to do is compare pixel pitch, focal length and subject distance, and then find a sensor that has enough of those pixels in total to allow all those to come together in one frame. What you will find is:

1) With the same length lens and same subject distance, the smaller the pixel pitch the less the DOF,

2) With the same pixel pitch and same subject distance, the longer the lens the less the DOF,

3) With the same focal length and pixel pitch, the closer your actual subject distance the less the DOF...

 

[Professional]

I will buy 120mm macro and i will give it more tests, i did a test in the store and told the salesman this will be my next lens after 28mm, so i am just waiting the H4D-60 then will see when i can get 120mm.