Phase 110mm LS / Having bad thoughts

[dougpeterson]

One annoying thing with the 110LS is that when in MF mode the lens focus drifts under the lens' own weight when pointed upward or downward. It is pretty annoying watching the focus ring turn under the force of gravity.
Looks like it is focus then nail it down with a bit of gaffer tape.
-bob

http://www.phaseone.com/en/search/article.aspx?articleid=2298&languageid=1

Would that help?

Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
__________________
Head of Technical Services, Capture Integration
Phase One, Leaf, Cambo, Canon, Apple, Profoto, Eizo & More
National: 877.217.9870 *| *Cell: 740.707.2183
Newsletter: Read Latest or Sign Up
RSS Feed: Subscribe
Buy Capture One at 10% off
Personal Work

 

[Bob]

Actually, it does and it doesn't.
The lens does not creep in the AF position, only the MF position (much as my 80D will do).
When in AF, this particular lens will simply allow you to set the af lock, but keep on focusing away with the focus ring with no problem and no creep.
The problem shows also with the use of extension tubes which interrupt the connection between the lens and the focus motor. In that case it does not help.
-bob

 

[David Klepacki]

This behavior of "lens creeping" on the 110 LS is also apparent with my copy of the lens as well. It does not happen with my 55 LS.

 

[kdphotography]

Oh Guy (and Bob) what have you done?

I'm not sure I have anything left in studio that I can part with. Still need that getaway driver, Guy?

ken

 

[Bob]

This behavior of "lens creeping" on the 110 LS is also apparent with my copy of the lens as well. It does not happen with my 55 LS.

So bottom line on the lens creep issue, it is pretty much a non issue for me since it only happens when the lens or body is set to MF mode or a close-up extension tube is used AND the lens is pointed pretty much straight up or straight down. At a 45 degree angle even with tubes, the lens does not creep.
So in general, if no tubes are in use, just set the body and lens to AF and the Custom settings to AF only on the AF button press and not on a shutter half press and it is just fine.
-bob

 

[Tim Ernst]

One question about this and the other new LS lenses - when you lock the mirror up, does the focal shutter open at that time also, or does it only open after you press the shutter button to fire the camera? In other words, when using the leaf shutter, are you able to calm down the CLUNK of the focal shutter first before making the exposure, or is the vibration of the focal shutter still there?

 

[Bob]

One question about this and the other new LS lenses - when you lock the mirror up, does the focal shutter open at that time also, or does it only open after you press the shutter button to fire the camera? In other words, when using the leaf shutter, are you able to calm down the CLUNK of the focal shutter first before making the exposure, or is the vibration of the focal shutter still there?

In MUP position, upon shutter press it goes mirror up, not when it is put in that position.
There is actually a pretty good reason for it to behave in this manner I think since metering is disabled once that mirror goes up.
In mup mode the sound is clunk in first press and whir-snick on second.

-bob

 

[Tim Ernst]

OK thanks - I was hoping that vibration issues would be reduced by using a leaf shutter lens, but I guess that is not the case. Oh well...

 

[Jack]

Tim, it's a two-step process: You press once and mirror goes up. Pause. You press a second time and shutter fires. Then after the exposure, the mirror falls back into place.

 

[Bob]

Tim, it's a two-step process: You press once and mirror goes up. Pause. You press a second time and shutter fires. Then after the exposure, the mirror falls back into place.

I thought I said that but you said it more clearly
-bob

 

[Jack]

It's all about how you say it 'Doctor' Bob

 

[Bob]

OK thanks - I was hoping that vibration issues would be reduced by using a leaf shutter lens, but I guess that is not the case. Oh well...

I really don't know.
Some time lapses between the focal plane shutter and the leaf shutter.
I just don't know how much and it also depends on how well damped your support system is.

 

[tashley]

Okay I need to see some images from this lens. My 80 LS comes today but the 110 sounds very interesting to me. So who has it and can we see some images from it. Your chance to make my bank account go up in smoke. :ROTFL::ROTFL::ROTFL:

Hi Guy,
I've had this lens for a few months now and have not used it as extensively as I'd like but I think it's pretty good. I've not had focus issues (for me it's mainly a studio-distance lens though) but mine focusses with a really really high hit rate. Posted some comments and coupla examples here
http://forum.getdpi.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16838
where I also observed that the bokeh is generally nice but can get fussy on complex background and I posted an example.

Best
Tim

 

[Guy Mancuso]

Thanks Tim I made a switch in my plan and ordered the 55mm LS first but this is next for sure. I went through a whole scenario of options for me and thought the 55mm LS right now would be a better option but I still want the 110 LS. What I like from what I can tell from my 80 is just a more German look. Okay folks go what's that and it's hard to describe it has a softer feel and maybe slightly warmer in tonal range. Now don't get me wrong the 80D AF is a bargain for what you get sharp as a razor but just a slightly different look.

 

[Tim Ernst]

Thanks guys, I'm aware how the MLU process works, I was just wondering if the focal plane shutter opened when the mirror did on the LS lenses to give vibrations time to settle down before the exposure - otherwise you can get vibration when that big old sucker opens unless enough time lapses before the beginning of the exposure. One way to test this sort of thing is to balance a nearly-full jigger on the lens and look at it closely (a very clear liquid, like gin, is preferred - Bombay is my first choice). The surface of the liquid will be jarred when the mirror is locked up, but it also will be jarred when the focal shutter OPENS, and it takes a little bit for the ripples on surface of the booze to settle down - this, of course, is how the image gets blurred just a bit during the exposure unless enough time has lapsed after the focal shutter opens (normally several seconds). A leaf shutter lens normally will not ripple the gin at all, certainly much less than a focal shutter would. But it sounds like the focal shutter on these lenses would still upset the gin. Oh well, at least you have a jigger of booze for your efforts!

 

[Ebe]

If you drink the gin first, you won't see the ripples

 

[vieri]

If you drink the gin first, you won't see the ripples

Ebe, glad to see a man who's got his priorities straight! Always drink first, you never know with all that mirror slap you might end up witnessing all that booze crashing on the floor...

 

[Tim Ernst]

Actually, the more times you run this test - it is important to empty the jigger after each test - then you will see all sorts of ripples no matter how secure your camera setup is. Some brands of booze produce more ripples so you have to be careful with selection, which is why Bombay was suggested to me 30 years ago by Boyd Norton...

 

[David K]

I would have thought that for a Phase back Aquavit would be the obvious choice...chilled in the freezer first. Or maybe Jaegermeister for German lenses and saki for those from Japan. As for Bombay gin... it'll do if there's no Hendrik's available

 

[Optechs Digital]

Thanks guys, I'm aware how the MLU process works, I was just wondering if the focal plane shutter opened when the mirror did on the LS lenses to give vibrations time to settle down before the exposure - otherwise you can get vibration when that big old sucker opens unless enough time lapses before the beginning of the exposure. One way to test this sort of thing is to balance a nearly-full jigger on the lens and look at it closely (a very clear liquid, like gin, is preferred - Bombay is my first choice). The surface of the liquid will be jarred when the mirror is locked up, but it also will be jarred when the focal shutter OPENS, and it takes a little bit for the ripples on surface of the booze to settle down - this, of course, is how the image gets blurred just a bit during the exposure unless enough time has lapsed after the focal shutter opens (normally several seconds). A leaf shutter lens normally will not ripple the gin at all, certainly much less than a focal shutter would. But it sounds like the focal shutter on these lenses would still upset the gin. Oh well, at least you have a jigger of booze for your efforts!

Hi Tim,

This has got to be the best testing procedure I have ever heard of.

I will stop at the liquor store tonight to get my staff some testing supplies. I will take your recommendation and get Bombay.

I think we will probably have to limit our testing sessions to Friday afternoons. Thanks very much for the tip.

Best Regards,
Paul