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Mamiya 645 AFD II and leaf shutter lenses

SergeiR

New member
OK, I have a question. I used to shoot Bronica and I don't remember stopping down when I changed the aperture (same on Hassy that I tried this weekend). Doesn't the Mamiya work the same?

Let's say that you need f8 @1/250 .... when you set the aperture on the lens, does it closes the diaphragm down or it get's closed when the shutter is tripped?
It does keep lens open till shutter released on RZ/RB, it does on AF lenses for 645 series.
MF lenses on AF bodies? no, not so much. Its mechanical connection that AFD bodies simpley wont have. Same as they wont have connection for L/S MF lenses to do shutter cocking/release, so you will have to do extra move for that.
 

Valentin

New member
It does keep lens open till shutter released on RZ/RB, it does on AF lenses for 645 series.
MF lenses on AF bodies? no, not so much. Its mechanical connection that AFD bodies simpley wont have. Same as they wont have connection for L/S MF lenses to do shutter cocking/release, so you will have to do extra move for that.
Thanks.
 

Valentin

New member
One more question (at least for now) :) ...

Does the new DF body take a film back? The Mamiya site doesn't say one way or the other.
 

Steve Hendrix

Well-known member
One more question (at least for now) :) ...

Does the new DF body take a film back? The Mamiya site doesn't say one way or the other.
Nope.

However, we have been offering refurbished Phase One AF camera bodies for $899 and these models do still accept film backs.


Steve Hendrix
 

Valentin

New member
Yup. I think this is similar to one i have.

Just remember that with manual lenses on AFD you will have to do manual stopping down, whereas with AF lenses you just roll. (not same with RZ Pro IID for example, where you dont need to stop down MF lenses manually)

But. Its not leaf shutter version.

Hi Sergei,

I got the 45mm MF (non-leaf) and I have a question (hope you know the answer).

There is a lever for A-M which is basically the DOF preview. This is the only time I can manually stop down the aperture. If in A position, it does not change. Is this the way that needs to be done (via the DOF lever)?
 

Valentin

New member
Another question.

The AFD has a focus indicator (left/right arrows and the circle for in focus). When used with the manual lens, up to f8, it works as expected: showing either left or right arrow when you are too close or past the focus point and the circle when in focus. Above f8 (and sometimes even at f8), I get both arrows flashing. There is basically no aid in focusing.

I'm assuming that it gets so dark that the sensor can't make up if in focus or not but I want to be sure if this is expected behavior or not (it's a used lens).
 

SergeiR

New member
Another question.

The AFD has a focus indicator (left/right arrows and the circle for in focus). When used with the manual lens, up to f8, it works as expected: showing either left or right arrow when you are too close or past the focus point and the circle when in focus. Above f8 (and sometimes even at f8), I get both arrows flashing. There is basically no aid in focusing.

I'm assuming that it gets so dark that the sensor can't make up if in focus or not but I want to be sure if this is expected behavior or not (it's a used lens).
None of existing AF systems (MF or 135) on any kind of cameras guaranteed to work on 5.6+ apperture.

On very bright day i had mine working @ f13 :)

Hence why i said before - you got to focus, then close down. Its a bit of a tricky situation, but thats how it was working in old days , before jumpers were added to cameras (and how you still have to do it on systems like 4/3 when you use manual lenses).

So , yep..you just putting lens into M , open wide, focus, close lens, make a shot. In studio you normally ok with 5.6 or wider, no need to go wider.
.
 

Valentin

New member
None of existing AF systems (MF or 135) on any kind of cameras guaranteed to work on 5.6+ apperture.

On very bright day i had mine working @ f13 :)

Hence why i said before - you got to focus, then close down. Its a bit of a tricky situation, but thats how it was working in old days , before jumpers were added to cameras (and how you still have to do it on systems like 4/3 when you use manual lenses).

So , yep..you just putting lens into M , open wide, focus, close lens, make a shot. In studio you normally ok with 5.6 or wider, no need to go wider.
.
Thanks Sergei. I was suspecting that was the case. I just wanted to make sure, since I bought the lens used, that is not defective.
 
P

Paddington James

Guest
There is dead easy way to adapt it - you basically unscrew one of wee bolts on the bottom of the lens so it would stop release to go all the way, and then you can cock up shutter on lens by simply rotating front ring, without having to disconnect lens from body every time ;)
I can't see which wee bolt this is, but I'm curious if it might solve my problem as well.

I've just bought a Mamiya leaf shutter lens (N/L 55mm) which I'd like to use on a Braun Paxina frankencamera project. The cocking process briefly opens the leaf shutter. As there is no focal plane shutter in the Paxina, this will expose the film.

I wonder if it is possible to modify the lens so that it stays closed during cocking?
 

paolo21

New member
Described above is how i sync at 1/500 on any of AFD bodies, using old leaf shutter lenses, but ok :)
I realize your post is several years old but it's still relevant. I wonder if you could you give more details on the "wee bolts" that need to be removed and any other information on the modification necessary to use an MF LS lens on afdIII. Thanks for your cooperation and information.
 
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