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Hasselblad HTS 1.5 T/S for landscapes

johnnygoesdigital

johnnygoesdigital

New member
I'm curious if anyone has used the HTS 1.5 for landscapes and if so, what kind of results. I understand that the 28mm effectively becomes a 43mm using this, but is there enough movements to justify the cost or should one have better results with a 4x5 with larger movements? Also, can Photoshop CS5 alleviate these concerns using free transform and pano programs because the ease of digital seems prudent.
 
johnnygoesdigital

johnnygoesdigital

New member
Derek,
Thanks for images. This is useful in deciding what is best for landscape for my purposes. I already own Hassy gear that the HTS 1.5 can utilize, so given that, it might be more cost effective. Film processing and scans can add up. It's my understanding that because of microlenses, that my DB is not recommended for a view/field camera. That's not what's on their (Hasselblad) website though. I'm sure I could probably get away with certain images, but given certain obtuse lighting conditions it can be a hindrance.
 
F

fotografz

Well-known member
johnnygoesdigital said:
Derek,
Thanks for images. This is useful in deciding what is best for landscape for my purposes. I already own Hassy gear that the HTS 1.5 can utilize, so given that, it might be more cost effective. Film processing and scans can add up. It's my understanding that because of microlenses, that my DB is not recommended for a view/field camera. That's not what's on their (Hasselblad) website though. I'm sure I could probably get away with certain images, but given certain obtuse lighting conditions it can be a hindrance.
Click to expand...
I recently ask the same question of my Hasselblad rep ... who is also a tech assistant for studios in the area. In addition to shooting techniques, there are adjustments in Phocus designed for correcting Hassey backs with micro-lenses that are used on a tech or view camera. I was going to be having a one-on-one to learn about it, but decided to sell my H4D/40. My other H digital system doesn't have micro-lenses.

As far as the HT/S1.5 is concerned, apparently the corrections are automatic and part of the integration of the HTS into the H systems functionality. I saw no color casts when shooting the HTS with a H4D/40 which has micro lenses.

Free Transform in PS is okay for some pedestrian PC applications, but IMO destructive to IQ and probably NOT a good way to go for landscape work that will be printed large ... more importantly it does nothing to add DOF available with tilts. For Panos I use PTGuiPro software, not Photoshop.

-Marc
 
Woody Campbell

Woody Campbell

Workshop Member
fotografz said:
I recently ask the same question of my Hasselblad rep ... who is also a tech assistant for studios in the area. In addition to shooting techniques, there are adjustments in Phocus designed for correcting Hassey backs with micro-lenses that are used on a tech or view camera. I was going to be having a one-on-one to learn about it, but decided to sell my H4D/40. My other H digital system doesn't have micro-lenses.

As far as the HT/S1.5 is concerned, apparently the corrections are automatic and part of the integration of the HTS into the H systems functionality. I saw no color casts when shooting the HTS with a H4D/40 which has micro lenses.

Free Transform in PS is okay for some pedestrian PC applications, but IMO destructive to IQ and probably NOT a good way to go for landscape work that will be printed large ... more importantly it does nothing to add DOF available with tilts. For Panos I use PTGuiPro software, not Photoshop.

-Marc
Click to expand...
I did a write up on the HTS in this forum a while back: HTS thread. See post 12 for David G's clarification that Phocus uses the position info to correct CA, vignetting and linear distortion, but not color casts. You need to shoot a white frame to correct color casts.
 
F

fotografz

Well-known member
Woody Campbell said:
I did a write up on the HTS in this forum a while back: HTS thread. See post 12 for David G's clarification that Phocus uses the position info to correct CA, vignetting and linear distortion, but not color casts. You need to shoot a white frame to correct color casts.
Click to expand...
I never detected color casts when shooting the H4D/40 and HTS/1.5 ... but I guess that doesn't mean it doesn't happen.

Do you use Scene Calibration in the Phocus Adjust Tool menu to Remove Cast and Equlize Intensity ... or is that how you use the white shot?

-Marc
 
D

dick

New member
johnnygoesdigital said:
Derek,
Thanks for images. This is useful in deciding what is best for landscape for my purposes. I already own Hassy gear that the HTS 1.5 can utilize, so given that, it might be more cost effective. Film processing and scans can add up. It's my understanding that because of microlenses, that my DB is not recommended for a view/field camera. That's not what's on their (Hasselblad) website though. I'm sure I could probably get away with certain images, but given certain obtuse lighting conditions it can be a hindrance.
Click to expand...
The HTS has it's limitations... and I am nearly at the point where I will have a full-blown Medium Format Digital View Camera, with remotely operable e-Shutters, daylight remote live view etc... but the cost is horrendous, and the HTS is cost-effective and practicable if you do not want to do long-focus landscapes.
 
jecxz

jecxz

Active member
Thank you Stephen and Graham.

Johnny, I admit I was in the same boat as you. I could not find any good landscape HTS photographs. I also saw the thread mentioned above but it contained no examples that impressed me. I met with David Grover while he was in New York and I was able to demo a unit and determine that I could be creative with it. I purchased it and after a short time my only regret was not purchasing it sooner. However, given the lack of impressive examples, Hasselblad needs to work on the marketing.

Here is another example photograph with the 35mm and the HTS:



It is a costly item, however, after working with it, I think it's a good tool for my landscape artwork.

Kind regards,
Derek Jecxz
www.jecxz.com
www.facebook.com/derek.jecxz.photographer

johnnygoesdigital said:
Derek,
Thanks for images. This is useful in deciding what is best for landscape for my purposes. I already own Hassy gear that the HTS 1.5 can utilize, so given that, it might be more cost effective. Film processing and scans can add up. It's my understanding that because of microlenses, that my DB is not recommended for a view/field camera. That's not what's on their (Hasselblad) website though. I'm sure I could probably get away with certain images, but given certain obtuse lighting conditions it can be a hindrance.
Click to expand...
 
Woody Campbell

Woody Campbell

Workshop Member
fotografz said:
I never detected color casts when shooting the H4D/40 and HTS/1.5 ... but I guess that doesn't mean it doesn't happen.

Do you use Scene Calibration in the Phocus Adjust Tool menu to Remove Cast and Equlize Intensity ... or is that how you use the white shot?

-Marc
Click to expand...
I'm working remotely here but this is how I remember it: You import the white frame and the associated images. Go to the imported white frame. in the Adjust tool go to the Remove Cast and Equalize Intensity panel. You can just check Remove Cast because for the HTS Phocus has already figured out vignetting.

You push create and provide a name. The named equalization shows up on the panel. Then go to the image and check the named equaiization on the panel and it applies it to the image. Something like that, anyway.

Really pretty easy. The secret is making a good white frame. Phocus actually prefers sort of middle gray - not too dark in the corners but not too bright in the center. Using as expodisc or the lucite rectangle that Capture Integration sells I decrease shutter speed 2 or 3 stops for the white frame (you can't change fstop because that will change both color cast and vignetting).
 
Woody Campbell

Woody Campbell

Workshop Member
fotografz said:
I never detected color casts when shooting the H4D/40 and HTS/1.5 ... but I guess that doesn't mean it doesn't happen.

Do you use Scene Calibration in the Phocus Adjust Tool menu to Remove Cast and Equlize Intensity ... or is that how you use the white shot?

-Marc
Click to expand...
jecxz said:
Thank you Stephen and Graham.

Johnny, I admit I was in the same boat as you. I could not find any good landscape HTS photographs. I also saw the thread mentioned above but it contained no examples that impressed me. I met with David Grover while he was in New York and I was able to demo a unit and determine that I could be creative with it. I purchased it and after a short time my only regret was not purchasing it sooner. However, given the lack of impressive examples, Hasselblad needs to work on the marketing.

Here is another example photograph with the 35mm and the HTS:



It is a costly item, however, after working with it, I think it's a good tool for my landscape artwork.

Kind regards,
Derek Jecxz
www.jecxz.com
www.facebook.com/derek.jecxz.photographer
Click to expand...
Derek - A really outstanding image.
 
johnnygoesdigital

johnnygoesdigital

New member
Derek,
I like the DOF, what DB are you using with your HTS 1.5?

The issues I want to correct such as DOF, pano's, artifacts, etc. are actually quite easy to fix via software and thus mimic a view camera, however, the convergence of lines is the bane of non technical cameras. Unless one shoots with enough overlap for cropping and is okay with IQ degradation than perhaps free transform is fine if your not going too big. Micro-lenses are great for high ISO, but introduce another set of issues if mounting with a view camera. The HTS 1.5 does a pretty good job of T/S, but it is expensive! There so much to consider, perhaps, I will re-visit my romance with film, as it's been locked in my forbidden closet of mystery for sometime! Yes, scans are expensive too, but digital has taught me so much about technique and theory that I think it safe to "load again".
 
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