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First time with 54M

evgeny

Member
I received Sinarback 54M and Macbook last Friday.
I never used MFDB and Macbook before.

I had approx 3-4 hours to try the equipment and CaptureShop past night.
This morning I took my Contax 645 with 54M and Macbook to a corporate event.

I shot approx 100 images in an hour. This is much more than I do with film.

1. I replaced Contax battery once. I heard that Contax is hungry to power. I shot two rolls of film with this battery before this event, its life is much shorter compared to Nikon pro bodies.

2. I replaced Contax 360 Flash batteries two times. Contax flash is very slow to charge. I missed approx 12 images because the flash is too slow. Batteries drain fast, it may take up to 10 seconds before flash is ready. I'm very disappointed with the flash. Nikon flash is much, much better.

3. My second-hand 54M has no CD with Reference Files. Thierry said I need to buy these files from Sinar. Thierry said I need a gray card to set color balance before each photo session. I used available gray objects in the office to pipette Gray Balance, this is not a true gray, my images have reddish and other tints. I had no such requirements with slide film, now I need to do extra work.

4. Macbook crashed 3 times with a fatal message asking to reboot the computer. I don't know if it the Macbook (Dual Processor with 4 GB RAM, optimized for performance, powered from wall outlet) or the 54M back, but such interrupt can lead to big loss when happen in the middle of an event.

These are my first impressions. I'm very new to CaptureShop and its options. I'm looking for a good Contax/54M and CaptureShop workflow.
Thank for reading.
 
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T

thsinar

Guest
Evgeny,

I don't have much time right now, since leaving to the airport in a couple of hours, but here my comments.

The reference files should have come on a CD, with your back. So I believe that the person who from your purchased did not send it to you. So yes, and as explained already, you should get those files to make sure your sensor is producing the best possible files.

If your images have reddish casts, it is because the grey you have used is to green, thus the software compensates by adding to much magenta. It is really a must to have a 18% grey card or a Macbeth colour card: this will make absolutely sure that your light is balanced. In the meantime, try with the "Neutral" pipette to click elsewhere, o other parts of the images which seem neutral (it can also be a light white or dark grey, if you don't find any other): you should be able to at least correct this reddish cast.

Film is of course different: you use the film which corresponds to your colour temperature (e.g. Daylight film under daylight/flash conditions, etc ...). The sensor does not know what type of light you are using, and you have to tell it, that's what you do when using the grey card and clicking on it. With film, when you change the colour temperature or the light characteristic, you have to change to another type of film. With digital you simply have to use the same grey card in your first shot and click on it: done. And this for any type of light.
3. My second-hand 54M has no CD with Reference Files. Thierry said I need to buy these files from Sinar. Thierry also said I need a gray card to set Gray Balance before each photo session. I used available gray objects in the office to pipette Gray Balance, this is a true gray, my images have reddish and other tints. I had no such requirements with slide film, now I need to do extra work.
Is your Macbook a Dual Core 2 Intel? What processor?
How much RAM? How is the RAM in the Mac?
Anyway, if it is a message asking to reboot the computer, it can be different issues: lack of RAM, conflict with another application/driver, etc ...
To analyze exactly and address the problem, it needs a "System Profile" (go to "About This Mac" ---> "More Info" ---> a window opens ---> save with "Menu" ---> "File" ---> "save As", and send this file to our tech.
You should also send a "Crash Log" in case the Captureshop crashed: this can be found under "Home" ---> "Library" --> "Logs" --->"Crash Reporter".
Send the 2 following files:

- "CaptureShop_2008-03-05-103641_Macintosh.crash"
- "CaptureShop.crash.log"

But first of all you should look at your computer configuration, respectively if you have enough RAM and the type of RAM.

Best regards,
Thierry
4. Macbook crashed 3 times with a fatal message asking to reboot the computer. I don't know if it the Macbook (Dual Processor with 4 GB RAM, optimized for performance, powered from wall outlet) or the 54M back, but such interrupt can lead to big loss when happen in the middle of an event.
 

evgeny

Member
Hi Thierry. Thank you for reply.

I write this message from my new Macbook.
I just sent all the files as you wrote to Tech. I also asked them to provide Reference Files for my specific back. I hope to get it soon.

Please tell me what else I may need to get maximum performance from the 54M.

Here is short copy/paste of the Hardware Overview just in any case

Name: MacBook
Model Identifier: MacBook4,1
Processor Name: Intel Core 2 Duo
Processor Speed: 2.4 GHz
Number Of Processors: 1
Total Number Of Cores: 2
L2 Cache: 3 MB
Memory: 4 GB (4 GB DDR2 SDRAM 667 MHz)
Bus Speed: 800 MHz
Boot ROM Version: MB41.00C1.B00
SMC Version: 1.31f0
Serial Number: W88232WA0P5
Sudden Motion Sensor:
State: Enabled
 

irakly

New member
wow, apparently, you chose not the most user-friendly option to start your MFDB journey :D
 

evgeny

Member
Irakly, I believe this 54M back is a better back than Kodak Pro 645 back, which you recommended. I like colors and noiseless images produced by this big sensor. The only drawback is the weight of the Macbook computer, but for my current work this is acceptable.

I believe to get my money back if I will want to sell the 54M.

Regards.
Evgeny
 

fotografz

Well-known member
Here's another users report on the 54M, similar, but for the most part a bit more positive ... however, it's a different application that's more appropriate for tethered work IMO.

http://www.prophotohome.com/forum/medium-format-digital/42332-sinar-54m.html

Personally I think a tethered back isn't the best choice for corporate event work, or event work of any kind, and in this case the Kodak ProBack probably would have been the better choice. I know this because I've done both tethered and untethered event work ... including using a Contax 645 with a Kodak Proback.

Concerning the Contax 360 flash ... that's terribly old technology and sloooow (actually based on an old Nikon flash). You may want to try your current Nikon flash unit and set it on "A".

However, depending on which model Nikon flash you use, I don't know if the Contax 645 will wake up a sleeping Nikon flash (it's an easy thing to try) ... if it won't wake up the flash, you may have to read the Nikon manual and use the menu to disable the sleep function so the flash doesn't go to sleep while shooting. But the recycle speed of the new Nikon flash unit is quicker, and power use more efficient ... and you'd be surprised how accurate "A" is once you calibrate the +/- flash compensation settings to your digital back's needs.

When I used a Contax 645 with a digital back, I used a Sunpack 120J bare bulb unit with a Contax C/Y TTL module. Better quality of light, and more of it ... plus most Quantum bare bulb light modifiers worked with it and made it a very diverse flash unit. But it is slower than the Nikon flash.
 

evgeny

Member
Thierry, thanks. I just download the white reference files. Please see my private message.

Fotografz, thanks. I actually got same imperssion as in the link you provided. I will sell both Contax 360 flashes, I have two, if my Nikon SB-800 will work in A mode. Thank for the idea! Please tell me how to calibrate the +/- flash compensation settings to my digital back?
 

fotografz

Well-known member
Thierry, thanks. I just download the white reference files. Please see my private message.

Fotografz, thanks. I actually got same imperssion as in the link you provided. I will sell both Contax 360 flashes, I have two, if my Nikon SB-800 will work in A mode. Thank for the idea! Please tell me how to calibrate the +/- flash compensation settings to my digital back?
Well, calibration is maybe the wrong word ... fine tune is probably more correct. See how the flash works with specific ISO settings on the back, and if they don't quite match to your tastes you can manually alter the ISO setting on the flash up or down to keep it a constant, or ride the +/- compensation of your Nikon Flash.
 

evgeny

Member
There is a program called InsomniaX http://semaja2.net/insomniaxinfo

The idea is to close Macbook, put the computer in bag/backpack and shoot tethered on the walk.

From description: ".. disabling the sleep mode on a Apple Laptop. Who does not want to use it as a big juke-box or go warwalking. The best looking server ever, especially at about one inch height. This small utility is what you will want, this small utility acts as a wrapper to the Insomnia kernel extension."

What do you think?
May this damage Macbook, especially its hard drive?

Thank.
 

evgeny

Member
Well, calibration is maybe the wrong word ... fine tune is probably more correct. See how the flash works with specific ISO settings on the back, and if they don't quite match to your tastes you can manually alter the ISO setting on the flash up or down to keep it a constant, or ride the +/- compensation of your Nikon Flash.
I tried Nikon flash on some still life objects and it seems to work for me.
There is no interaction between Contax 645 and SB800.
The exposure is always incorrect when the camera in aperture priority mode.
I tried X mode, it worked properly. I suppose that manual mode and shutter release priority will work, too.
I manually set all parameters in the flash, such as ISO, standby delay, lens mm and lens f. If ISO or lens parameters change I need to make corresponded changes in the flash menu. I should check each time that subject is within the flash range coverage.
If addition tests will be positive, I will sell my two Contax flashes and buy one or two Nikon flashes for remote/su-4 wireless setups.

I never used "A" before :) Thank for the idea!
 
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