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Schneider 43XL sharpness

gazwas

Active member
My copy is just not usable without an LCC because of the magenta cast. It's only faint and easy to remove in C1 but it's there. I was quite surprised first time I shot with it as I was only expecting the casts with some movements applied.

Nice sharp lens but I wonder how the Rodie 40HRW compares colour cast wise?
 

yaya

Active member
My copy is just not usable without an LCC because of the magenta cast. It's only faint and easy to remove in C1 but it's there. I was quite surprised first time I shot with it as I was only expecting the casts with some movements applied.

Nice sharp lens but I wonder how the Rodie 40HRW compares colour cast wise?
The HR-W, being a retrofocal lens is better in terms of colour cast and falloff but I would still perform some form of calibration if I shift it and wanted clean sky, snow etc.
 

goesbang

Member
My copy is just not usable without an LCC because of the magenta cast. It's only faint and easy to remove in C1 but it's there. I was quite surprised first time I shot with it as I was only expecting the casts with some movements applied.
I have been shooting with a P65+ for about a year now and have found the software LCC correction in C1 up to the job with all but the most extreme shifts.
When I got my Aptus 12, I did notice significantly deeper magenta cast than with the P65 at the same shift. I am expecting my IQ180 will be the same. I understand the latest version of C1 has addressed this with expanded LCC capability.
I'll share my observations once I've run some tests (The IQ only arrived this morning)
 

gazwas

Active member
I'll share my observations once I've run some tests (The IQ only arrived this morning)
Thanks, that would be an interesting comparison.

A little update on on my sharpness, Arca M2 issues for those interested in this lens/camera combo.

I still wasn't happy with the top to bottom sharpness from my lens so I decided to try with a different lens panel. I was using the 15mm recessed and it was a nightmare to adjust the aperture and cock the shutter without looking at the lens. My reason for the recessed panel was due to the symetrical design of the Schneider, the flange to focal distance of 49mm meant very little distance between lens and sensor for movements and my dealer recommended the 15mm panel.

After owning the camera for a couple of weeks I did some measurments and I felt I would just get away using a flat panel so I ordered one. What an improvement. No sharpness problems any more and so much easier to use. And the bonus is there is plenty of space with the ultra wide bellows for plenty of movement. 20mm or more in any direction no problem. Not sure how using with a sliding back would effect things but without its fine. Don't know why the recessed caused these issues. Possibly I mounted the lens wrong or the panel was slightly out somewhere or most possibly user error but I'm getting along much better with the flat lens panel.

Hope this helps someone interested in this combo because these simple things make all the difference and when I was buying the kit I couldn't find any info on the internet about thse types of trivial but inprotant things.
 

archivue

Active member
on the back of the copal shutter, sometimes there's a prohiminent little screw... really handy to eliminate rotation of the lens... but if there's no hole on the lensboard, then you need to remove it, otherwise it won't be // ...

anyway, using arca stuff for years... i just hate 15mm recessed panel... but the 7mm is a good compromise... but it depends on lens also !
 

gazwas

Active member
on the back of the copal shutter, sometimes there's a prohiminent little screw... really handy to eliminate rotation of the lens... but if there's no hole on the lensboard, then you need to remove it, otherwise it won't be // ...
Very good point and that should be mentioned for people new to Schneider lenses. When mine arrived I didn't know if I could remove the tiny screw or not and was scared the lens would fall apart..... it didn't. :)
 

gazwas

Active member
Just another post for those interested in what the brochures and MTF charts can't tell you. Attached is an LCC shot ready for correction in Capture One just to illustrate to would be purchasers the colour casts and fall off associated with this lens. The images are with a full frame P65+ Dalsa chip at f11 in the zero position uncorrected and corrected in C1 LCC.

Please excuse the dust. :eek:
 
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