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Leave lens and back attached to alpa?

Wayne Fox

Workshop Member
I tried searching this but not much luck. Just wondering if leaving the back and a lens attached to a tech camera is a viable option. In looking at it, as long as the bag it is being stored in is appropriately padded seems like it wouldn't really put any stress on anything, and would certainly make it easier to use in the field.

Currently I take everything apart, but this means once I get in the field I can't easily just slip it back in the backpack when I know I have a lengthy walk before needing it again.
 

PeterL

Member
I keep the back (P40+) and lens (47mmXL) on my Alpa TC. Since I only have one lens at the moment, I don't see the purpose of taking it off. I take the viewfinder off when in my bag, and also the cables, it all just seems so easy to tangle everything up.

Cheers, -Peter
 

docmoore

Subscriber and Workshop Member
Used to leave my H3DII 39 back attached to my TC in the bag for weeks on end...as long as I did not need to change lenses I saw no need to introduce the potential for dust or damage from removal replacement.

Never had a problem...used a Lowe Pro bag with inserts to support and cushion back and lens.

Bob
 

GrahamWelland

Subscriber & Workshop Member
When I'm in field I leave the back on the Alpa mount plate on the body with the 47xl. For longer lenses with the SB adapter I prefer to remove the back/adapter and put the plastic over on it. I will leave the SB adapter on the body with the 90, or remove the lens and put on the front plate if I've been using my 150mm.

When I pack it away for travel I normally remove the back even if I leave the 47 on it. The gura gear pack you use has plenty of room to hold the Alpa & wide lens and body. I always make sure that the back faces into the middle of the bag on the basis that lenses are cheaper than digital backs!
 

Don Libby

Well-known member
While I don't have an Alpa I do have a tech camera and I routinely leave my back and lens attached. Then again my camera kit is a pelican case holding the camera, two other lenses and extra batteries.

Don
 

dchew

Well-known member
Wayne,
I've been leaving mine together (with a 43xl). Like Peter I take off the cables mainly because a few connections appear relatively fragile to me, such as the multi-pin plug on the back and the sync cord that plugs into the bottom of the sync release.

But I've been curious about the same thing. Wear and dust vs. torque and stress...

Dave
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
I would also take the cables off or at least disconnect from the back itself. I agree with David the cables are great but being banged around connected in a bag makes me worry of bending them to far but back on body with lens certainly is a option that one should go for. When I borrow a tech cam I always do that otherwise switching the back out just creates dust bunnies and also as we all know in the field handling a back is a nerve racking experience. They do drop or can slip magically out of your hand.

Just thinking of holding a 30k back in your hand with sensor exposed gives many the chills.
 

yaya

Active member
Some notes:

Some of the bigger lenses like the Rodenstock 23mm, 28mm, 32mm and the Schneider 28mm can put a lot of stress on the copal shutter so it you use any of those it is better to pack it separately in its own case with ample support

I normally wrap the camera and back with a neoprene/ velcro sheet. Its elasticity helps keep the back tight and prevents any wear of the mount itself so it doesn't start rattling

Remove the release cable so that it doesn't break the thread on the lens

Yair
 
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Wayne Fox

Workshop Member
Some notes:

Some of the bigger lenses like the Rodenstock 23mm, 28mm, 32mm and the Schneider 28mm can put a lot of stress on the copal shutter so it you use any of those it is better to pack it separately in its own case with ample support

Yair
In looking at the lenses, I'm unclear how having the lens on the body adds stress to the shutter. Please help me understand this.

My plan is to build a custom insert that should fully support any stress points, so I would think the lens would be as protected as if in its own bag. My concern was stress points where the lens actually attaches to the camera body.
 

Wayne Fox

Workshop Member
If you look at, e.g., http://www.alpa.ch/dms/products/len...-W-4-0-32-mm/HR_Dig-W_32_Neuh_2010_e_9930.pdf, you see how much glass there is in front of the shutter. It's the pure weight of the lens elements which adds stress to the shutter.

Chris
OK, but how does having it attached to the camera affect that? Seems like the stress would be more about how the lens is positioned in the bag (vertical or flat), and wouldn't be affected by whether it's attached to the camera or not (unless the camera couldn't be situated in a way that might lessen the stress.)
 

stephengilbert

Active member
I was ready to disagree with Wayne, and then thought a bit more. It seems to me that stress on the shutter is caused by a heavy lens being supported solely by the shutter, by its "hanging off the front of the shutter." (Like when you're taking pictures with it. :)) If the camera and lens are both supported in a bag or case, I don't see the need to remove anything. If it fits, why take it apart?
 

GrahamWelland

Subscriber & Workshop Member
When I borrow a tech cam I always do that otherwise switching the back out just creates dust bunnies and also as we all know in the field handling a back is a nerve racking experience. They do drop or can slip magically out of your hand.

Just thinking of holding a 30k back in your hand with sensor exposed gives many the chills.
Nah - I just breathe on the sensor and rub it with my (usually) clean handkerchief....

Bill
Now I realize Bill is joking :D but here's a reminder of something to sober people up as to what can VERY easily happen with a tiny slip when putting the back on to the mounting plate of your technical camera :eek: You learn to be VERY VERY careful in future after you do this and have had to buy a replacement P40+ for your now slightly modified Aptus. (The good news was that it was eventually repairable and so I now have a backup spare MFDB)

 

goesbang

Member
Yair, I take your point about the weight of the glass adding torque stress to the Copal shutter - nice theory.
However, having owned and seriously abused dozens of Copal shutters with much bigger glass elements (ie, SK 90/5.6 Super Angulon etc), I have never seen one fail from torqueing unless it was dropped or hit from the side.
I'd venture the risk you are discussing is real in theory but miniscule in practice.
Lest hope the new Sinar E-shutter is a tough nut.......but that's an entirely different wet dream......
 

yaya

Active member
The bigger lenses use a Copal #1 shutter which has a 20% larger diameter, making it a helluva lot stronger (that's a scientific assessment...), especially the lens threads and the little screws that hold it all together.

Have a look at the rear of your Copal #0 and see those screws...they are TINY
 
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